tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36266064384549177032024-03-13T14:12:02.691+00:00Oxford Wine Tasting NotesTasting notes, articles and musings about wine...Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.comBlogger77125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-79091446893779634812013-05-25T12:20:00.001+01:002013-05-25T12:24:05.284+01:00Time to Change<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a number of years, the time has come to move this blog into Wordpress.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is still work-in-progress currently, but you can follow me at:</span><br />
<a href="http://wineandmedicine.wordpress.com/"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>http://WineandMedicine.wordpress.com/</b></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There will be no further up-dates to this site, although all new postings will be available on the new Wordpress site. Thanks for following!</span><br />
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-61044439762456381182013-03-24T00:34:00.002+00:002013-03-24T01:00:41.390+00:00Ridge Vineyards tasting with wine maker Eric Baugher<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Oxford University Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ridge Vineyards
tasting with wine maker Eric Baugher<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.ridgewine.com/">http://www.ridgewine.com</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My return trips to OUWS are depressingly infrequent these
days, but what an opportunity this was for a quite outstanding wine tasting
with the winemaker from Ridge, one of the ‘iconic’ wineries of California, and
presented by none other than their winemaker Eric Baugher – who has now
overseen 18 vintages and 250 wines!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having been founded by three Stanford Research Institute
engineers, Ridge started its modern history as a part-time wine making outfit. The
previously abandoned winery and vineyards date from before prohibition,
originally known as the ‘Monte Bello Winery’. Cab sav and Chardonnay vineyards
had been planted, and wines from these constituted the first vintage of Ridge
in 1962.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The vineyards are situated on a coastal range, providing a
cooling climate compared with much of Napa. The winery is blessed with some
particularly highly regarded vineyards, with cabernet sauvignon
vineyards like Monte Bello having been originally planted over 125 years ago.
Similar pre-Prohibition zinfandel vineyards were first planted in the latter
part of the 1800’s.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ridge came to wider attention when the Monte Bello wine achieved
fifth place in the famous "Judgment of Paris" tasting of 1976, when French
and California fine wines were pitted against each other and tasted blind by a
panel of distinguished wine tasters.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I think you can tell these wine use wild yeast fermentation –
there is something ever so slightly earthy about them. More real, and less
polished. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My own experience of these reds is rather limited (a sad reflection
on my general lack of Californian wine knowledge) with only the zinfandels previously coming
across my palate albeit infrequently. From what I have tasted though, these
wines have previously struck me as being more concentrated and reflective than
many bruisers from this end of the winemaking world. Some might say even a
little European tasting, if such a generalisation could ever be made! We were
told the distinguishing feature of these wines is “impeccable balance” – and I
couldn’t disagree.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Chardonnay Monte Bellow 2006</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From the north face of Monte Bello Ridge. Grapes picked
relatively early to avoid over-ripeness and too high alcohol. 3-4 months
fermentation, 10 months in barrel on lees! Deep yellow. Very open. Immediately
attractive. Barrel fermented with toasted American oak. Complex, vanilla,
brioche, toffee, bees wax. Very full, oily palate. High alcohol discernible (14.4%
alcohol). Long finish. Will clearly age further. 16-17/20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Zinfandel Geyserville 2007</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Geyserville is located in the Alexander Valley, first
planted in 1882. Totals 58% Zinfandel with balance made up of Carignan, M<span style="color: #343434; font-size: 9pt;">ataro (Mourvèdre)<span class="apple-converted-space">,</span></span> and Petit Syrah. This wine
occasionally contains more depending on other old vines that were randomly
planted amongst these. Rocky soil from an ancient river bed, mainly alluvial.
Medium red, purple edge. Dark brambly character. Some acetone on the nose?
Certainly high toned. Not an over-ripe style of Zinfandel. Dry palate. Good
acidity (3.5-3.6) much more than your average Zinfandel. Ripe, fine character
to the tannins. Slightly sour finish. Hollow mid palate? 5-years old now, I can’t
see that this is going to improve from here – but apparently it will do up to
o10-years from vintage. 14.4-14.5% alcohol (very precise!) They won’t let this
go >15%. I scored this 15-16/20. Least impressive wine of the tasting bar
the Lytton Springs 1997.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Zinfandel Geyserville 1997</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Decanted prior to serving, what a treat to be able to
compare the young wine against such an older vintage. This is 75% zinfandel. Medium-red
with brick-red rim. Very open with a curious nose. Obviously old character,
very tertiary in nature. More fruit on the palate than on the nose. Jammy sour
fruits. Tannins really softened out now. Powerful finish. I actually far prefer
this to the 2007, and apparently 2007 and 1997 were very similar vintages. I
cannot see how the 1997 will mature into this! 16-17/20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Zinfandel Lytton Springs 2007</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This vineyard was planted in 1902 and is located in Dry
Creek Valley. It was a warmer microclimate and clay-based soils. Medium red,
lighter purple rim. Similar sour cherry sort of character to the Geyserville,
but seemingly more perfumed. Big impact on the palate, immediately fuller and
weightier. Powerful, sour and firm tannins. Big fruit, comes across as sweeter
because of this. Briary character with some spice from the American oak still discernible.
17/20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Zinfandel Lytton Springs 1997</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Medium red with a brick-red rim. Aged nose again, completely
tertiary in character. For me though this wine really seemed to be a little
flat and drying out. Old and dried fruit on the palate but not really anything
noteworthy for me. 15+. Probably should have been drunk already.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Produced in the third year of drought to effect the
vineyards. Very hot growing season. Picked pre-typhoon! Spent 2-years in
barrel. Deep red with purple rim. Subdued nose. Subtle blackcurrant and black
fruits. Very full, ripe but overall soft palate. Lower acidity. Medium length
finish. A very approachable wine. 16/20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 2009</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kept for 18 months in new barrels (5 months sur lie).
American oak sourced from 21 coopers, 100% new. Obviously deeper colour, deep
purple hue. Open nose with soft blackcurrant and vanilla dominating. Tightly
structured palate. Fine tannins, but still very firm at this stage in its life.
Quite hot with alcohol. Good overall balance thought nonetheless. Clearly needs
a lot of patience to wait for this to come round – this is still a baby but offers
an impression that there is much more yet to give. Only 36,000 bottles produced
and not yet available in the UK at the time of tasting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another drought year and difficult vintage with a small
production. Same colour as the Monte Bello. Blend of 75% cab sav, 20% merlot with
balance made up of other black grapes. Nose not as open, predominantly a soft
creamy oak character. Palate very dry, medium tannins but quite fine. Medium
acidity. Not your typical Napa cab sav sort of wine. Made by the winery to be
drunk up to 8-10 years of age max. 16/20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 2008</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Really quite a different wine, very different character on
the nose. Deep and concentrated; earthy and dry. Starting to come out of itself
perhaps, but seemingly not as tightly knitted together as the 2009. Powerful
but rather like tasting the component parts of a wine rather than the finished
product. Very structured body and with time in the glass this began to open up
slightly. This is made as a 20-30 year wine. Difficult to score in its current
state; but based on the wine that followed this is clearly something of
pedigree with a great future.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 1995</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Decanted approx. 3 hours prior to tasting. Produced in a relatively
cooler year. 69% cab sav, 18% merlot, 3% cab franc. More opaque, medium-red
with a red rim. Amazing open nose. Really just a dead-ringer for a mature fine
Bordeaux. Cigar and cedar dominate. Incredible palate. Delicate and firm. What
a metamorphosis this wine has made compared with the 2008 tasted before this!
Fine, complexed and balanced. Remarkable. Alcohol only 12.5%. This has 40-50
years ageing potential still to go! 18/20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-29243998654838587942013-03-21T19:43:00.001+00:002013-03-21T19:43:11.024+00:00Mixed Wine Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uKsv7GneuWg/UUtihQM-UHI/AAAAAAAAAHo/cNSELZs-ukI/s1600/Senejac+Bordeaux+and+Cedre+Cahors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Chateaux Senejac Bordeaux and Chateau Le Cedre Cahors" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uKsv7GneuWg/UUtihQM-UHI/AAAAAAAAAHo/cNSELZs-ukI/s640/Senejac+Bordeaux+and+Cedre+Cahors.jpg" title="Chateaux Senejac Bordeaux and Chateau Le Cedre Cahors" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Chateau Du Cedre “Le Prestige” 2000</b> (Cahors, France)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stood for a few days prior to opening and served following resting in decanter for approximately 1 hour. Kept at a cool below-room temperature. Thick tannin deposits welded to the inside of the bottle. Clear, bright, deep colour with ruby red rim and little suggestion of the 13-years age. Clean nose, immediately open with surprisingly primary character blending into more teriary characters. Dark red fruits with some volatiles and woody, savoury spice characters. Medium-plus intensity. Full bodied palate with medium-plus acidity and clearly perceptible alcohol (13.5%!) Firm tannin still present. Dark fruit character. Good length on the finish. This is excellent and probably not even at the mid-point in life. I would feel confident about cellaring this for at least another 5-years, more likely 10. I would love to see how this develops; this has a fine future. A great vintage and a good example of top-level Cahors. I would describe is as being typically solid, powerful and rustic South-Western (albeit with some polish for Cahors) compared to the elegance normally used to describe the downstream wines this area historically bettered. It needs some solid South-Western cuisine to match its power. Interestingly, the following day the remains were mistaken for a just-opened younger Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux we tasting when it was passed around blind. However note that this didn’t particularly improve in the bottle after the first evening. 16.5-17(with time)/20.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Château Sénéjac 2003 Cru Bourgeois Supérieur </b>(Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stood for a few days prior to opening and served following resting in decanter for approximately 1 hour. Kept at a cool below-room temperature. Clear, light ruby with some orange developing on the rim. Clean, open nose. Elegant, light nose showing some medium maturity. Woody, wax polish volatiles, a little dark spice, but predominantly a gentle cedar wood character. The palate was light, medium acidity (despite the vintage), alcohol not to the fore (despite 13% on the label). Medium-light body. Elegant, smooth, quite rich and well defined, well-polished and clean. Medium tannins. Not a heavyweight, and wouldn’t stand up to anything overly powerful in terms of food accompaniments. This developed will in the decanter over the evening and following day. While not metamorphosing into anything particularly more spectacular, it did plump out a bit with more open and appealing aromatics on the nose. I would drink now; while it might hold a few more years I can’t imagine it is going to develop into anything much finer and it is really very enjoyable drinking now. 16/20.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Mas de Daumas Gassac blanc 2006</b> (Vin de Pays de l'Herault, France)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This white wine is something of an enigma – and I would expect nothing less from the Guibert family! Blended from an eclectic mix, this is predominantly one-third each of Chardonnay, Viognier and Petit Manseng with a host of other varieties making up the remainder. Samuel Guibert talks of their white wine having different stages of its existence, with fragrant primary viognier-dominant character of youth developing into maturity in stages. This wine would appear to be a good example of that. Now 6 years old, it is really extremely difficult to pigeon-hole, something quite unique, almost a little eccentricity of the Gassac Valley. Clear medium lemon appearance. Nose is open, clean, medium-plus intensity and developing. I just can’t place it as being like anything else – there are hints of a Jura or something here. Dry honey, lime, mixed nuts, Fascinating stuff. The palate is dry with fresh medium-plus acidity. Medium alcohol, nicely balanced. Very clean and refreshing. Pronounced flavour intensity similar to the character on the nose. Long, concentrated finish. Partnered surprisingly well with a baked Camembert cheese! The uniqueness of this will not be to everyone’s taste I suspect, but this is a thought provoking wine to be sipped and considered. Ready to drink but could age further. Will be interested to see how the rest of the case develops in years to come – right now I’m not making any predictions!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Cave des Vignerons de Buxy - La Buxynoise Montagny 1er Cru 2005</b> (Burgundy, France)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Half-bottle. Despite being their then-top wine, this has been very hit-and-miss in my experience. The other half I opened so was badly oxidised it was undrinkable and got poured away. This was much better, nutty and mature, but certainly starting to tire out. These wines are really not meant for keeping, and their variability has put my off purchasing from this well-known cooperative.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Jim Barry, McRae Wood Shiraz, 2006</b> (Clare Valley, South Australia)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Brought along by Mark McDonald to one of our post-WSET ‘wine tasting’ socials! This was a memorable wine from the evening – black and concentrated quite primary characters. It was tasted blind, and I placed it as being many years more youthful than it actually was. Oaky, full of spicy black fruits, full bodied and ripe rounded tannins. Some menthol character served to confuse people further, with an initial guess by many that this was a Cabernet-dominated blend. The wine is lifted and aromatic, something like menthol pretty striking on the nose. Really excellent wine. Needed rich red meat to balance it out. Will keep for many years to come.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Domaine Le Clos des Cazeaux “La Tour Sarrazine” Gigondas 2004</b> (Rhone, France)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This lovely old and welcoming winery on the outskirts of Vacqueyras is run by the Archimbaud-Vache family. Having followed them for over a decade now, we’ve had some wonderful hits and also a few misses. The latter partly down to wines that have disappointed, but also partly down to a few perhaps being kept past their peak enjoyment. The wines do seem to have a loyal following in the UK as they offer relatively good value for money, have good medium-term cellaring potential, and are imported by the Wine Society (who also sell vintages en primeur).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This particular wine, however, was purchased direct from the winery in (about) 2006 on a visit. I do remember being impressed at the time by what seemed to be a change (an improvement to my mind) in their winemaking style with more concentrated and polished wines at the tasting compared to the more rustric traditional style I recall encountering in the past. Sadly I didn’t make detailed notes at the time, but I do remember the Vacqueyras village wines also being quite improved and very good.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This particular bottling seems to have carried that through with some medium-term bottling aging – indeed it is currently showing really very well, and I suspect 2004’s like this will live in the shadow of the famous 2005 vintage that followed. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wine is clear with little sediment thrown (it was stood for several days prior to opening). Medium ruby with a garnet rim developing. Pronounced legs inside the glass. Open nose immediately on decanting, not broadening out much further after a couple of hours in decanter. Medium intensity. Smokey and earthy with quite a lot of dusty ripe red fruits. Seems like there’s a very light touch of Brett there, just to add a touch of complexity. Very appealing. The palate is similarly broad, rich and full bodied. Generous ripe red fruits set against a medium tannin body. The fruit is lovely and really balances out the tannin. Medium acidity. Slightly hot when you think about it, but hides 14.5% alcohol very well. Medium-plus length. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is without doubt the best bottle of La Tour Sarrazine that I’ve tasted. At its peak now at nine years old. I imagine it will hold it for another couple of years, but why wait, it won’t improve further. I would say this could give lesser-ranking Chateauneufs a good run for their money as this offers excellent value. Needs full flavoured meats and cheeses to do this justice – lovely winter wine. 16+/20.</span><br />
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-39731868722541245472013-02-22T16:47:00.003+00:002013-03-13T12:44:34.978+00:00JASGBI Article - Take a Different Course: Wine Wisdom at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust®<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x2Uu4kbQSS4/USeimI_DxuI/AAAAAAAAAHU/jgcq8fDuF3E/s1600/JASGBI+Pic+1+-+Burgundy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Burgundy storm - Copyright Ed Fitzgerald 2012" border="0" height="361" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x2Uu4kbQSS4/USeimI_DxuI/AAAAAAAAAHU/jgcq8fDuF3E/s640/JASGBI+Pic+1+-+Burgundy.jpg" title="Burgundy storm - Copyright Ed Fitzgerald 2012" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Take a Different Course: Wine
Wisdom at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust</b>®<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ed Fitzgerald, General Surgery
Registrar</span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Twitter <a href="https://twitter.com/Diathermy" target="_blank">@Diathermy</a><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><em>Published in the Journal of the Association of Surgeons of Great Britian and Ireland, </em></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><em>Number 39, March 2013 (<a href="http://www.scribd.com/doc/130143834/Take-A-Different-Course-Wine-Wisdom-At-The-Wine-Spirit-Education-Trust-WSET-Ed-Fitzgerald-JASGBI-number-39" target="_blank"><b>Full print article pdf can be downloaded here</b></a>)</em></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s a question of nature or
nurture. No matter how diligent a student you were at medical school nor how
prolific your PubMed citations have become since then, not all of us spent our
student days scratching an academic itch. So why is it that so many of us still
end up testing ourselves with new educational challenges? MBA, anyone<span style="display: none; mso-hide: all;">es? MBA?cademic itch. So how is it that so
many of us end up needing to challenge ourselves with </span>? LLB or MSc?
Perhaps the intrinsic nature of medics draws us all into the pursuit of
lifelong learning, or perhaps we have all become indoctrinated into it by the
system. Or both. Or perhaps some of us just really need a Consultant job.
Either way, next time you feel an itch developing for a postgraduate course,
why not pour some wine onto it to calm things down? Just sign up for a wine
tasting course.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now I’ve said before to anyone
who’ll listen that medicine and wine are natural partners (although not
necessarily at the same time). Doctors as a professional group have an unusual
(or ‘worrying’, as my friends often say) interest in alcoholic beverages of all
varieties. Whether this is nature or nurture is again debatable, as I fear a
degree of willing indoctrination also occurs in this area at medical school.
Nonetheless, learning about the art, science and culture of wine can be a
challenging academic pastime. What better way to quench a thirst for knowledge
than with such a pleasurable and social activity as taking a wine tasting
course?!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I say this with some modest
experience, having recently completed 15-weeks of evening classes at the Wine
& Spirit Education Trust in Bermondsey Street, London*. Having spent a good
part of my medical school holidays driving (or rather, navigating) my family
crazy around the vineyards of Europe and ‘exploring’ (wine euphemism alert:
‘exploring’ = drinking) the world of wine, I fancied enrolling on what
essentially amounted to a justification for opening a good bottle of wine on a
Monday night. As if most of us need one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Wine & Spirit Education
Trust (WSET®) is a Registered Charity (No. 313766) and was established in 1969,
long before wine courses were as fashionable as they are now. This was an era
when the UK wine trade was the centre of the vinous universe, although this hub
of commercial gravity may now be gradually shifting eastwards to Asia. Founded
by the historical ‘Holy Trinity’ of the British wine trade, the Vintners’
Company, the Wine & Spirit Association and the Institute of Masters of
Wine, WSET® was tasked with developing high quality education and training for
the wine trade or those planning on joining it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is the way it remained for
many years and in fact non-industry students only started attending their
courses in 1990. Since then WSET® has developed rapidly, and is now accredited
by Ofqual as a UK Awarding Body within the National Qualifications Framework
(NQF). Their wine qualifications are internationally respected within the wine
trade, with courses in 17 languages, exams sat in 58 countries, and 43,254
candidates attempting a WSET® qualification last year. Although most still hail
from the UK, candidates from Hong Kong, USA and China took second, third and
fourth places respectively last year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Details of the different courses
and qualifications offered are provided in <b>Table 1</b>. Timing is flexible,
with many running simultaneously and participants have the option of enrolling
on day-release courses, continuous blocks, or evening classes. I opted for the
latter, based at the tasting rooms at the head offices of the WSET® in Bermondsey
Street, London. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Table 1: Wine & Spirit Education Trust Qualifications<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; margin-left: -5.3pt;"><tbody>
<tr style="height: 14.3pt;"><td style="background-color: #d3dfee; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border: 1pt solid rgb(79, 129, 189); height: 14.3pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Foundation Level Courses<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="height: 44.1pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 44.1pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 1 Award in Wines<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Introductory one-day course<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Basic wine knowledge and matching food with wine<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="height: 44.1pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 44.1pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 1 Award in Wine Service<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Entry level one-day course<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Wine service and practical skills in the restaurant setting<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="height: 44.1pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 44.1pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 1 Award in Spirits<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Entry level one-day course<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Basic product knowledge and skills in service and marketing<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="height: 12.35pt;"><td style="background-color: #d3dfee; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 12.35pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Intermediate Level Courses<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="height: 89.25pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 89.25pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 2 Intermediate Certificate in Wines and Spirits<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Major grape varieties and where they are grown<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Wine styles and the production of spirits and liqueurs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Systematic approach to tasting with approx. 45 wines and 4 spirits<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Minimum 16-hours of teaching delivery time, with further self-study<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Assessment: 1-hour paper with 50 multiple choice questions<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr style="height: 89.25pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 89.25pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 2 Professional Certificate in Spirits<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Main categories of spirits and liqueurs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Influences of production methods on the different styles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Systematic approach to tasting with approx. 60 spirits and liqueurs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Minimum 12-hours teaching delivery time, with further self-study<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Assessment: 1-hour paper with 50 multiple choice questions<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr style="height: 13.55pt;"><td style="background-color: #d3dfee; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 13.55pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Advanced Level Courses<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<tr style="height: 104.6pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 104.6pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 3 Advanced Certificate in Wines and Spirits<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>In-depth knowledge of a wide range of wines and spirits<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Factors that influence style, quality and price of wines and spirits<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Systematic approach to tasting with approx. 76 wines and 6 spirits<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Equivalent to A-Level / AS-Level course standard<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Minimum 28-hours teaching delivery time, with further self-study<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Assessment: 50 MCQs, 5 short answer questions and a blind tasting<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="height: 9.35pt;"><td style="background-color: #d3dfee; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 9.35pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Diploma Level Courses</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr style="height: 119.65pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 119.65pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines and Spirits<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Internationally recognised as the premium wine and spirit qualification<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Divided into 6 units, including business and commercial aspects<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Systematic approach to tasting with over 250 wines and 50 spirits<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>A prerequisite for entry onto the Master of Wine study programme<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Equivalent to University ‘Certificate’ course standard<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Minimum 118-hours teaching delivery time, with further self-study<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Assessment: mix of MCQ, theory papers, assignments and blind tastings<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr style="height: 65.9pt;"><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: rgb(79, 129, 189); border-right-width: 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; height: 65.9pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt; width: 373.95pt;" valign="top" width="499"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET Level 5 Honours Diploma<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Attained on completing a dissertation following the Level 4 Diploma<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Includes undertaking a literature review of the subject area chosen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Project length: 4,000–5,000 words<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</tbody></table>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 150%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before my Level 3 course commenced
I received a bulky package through the post, although my initial excitement
deflated quickly when I realised this consisted solely of preparatory reading
rather than the fine wine I had envisaged. Nonetheless, these course materials
were excellent, with a 278-page book covering the whole world of wine from
regions to regulations and production to packaging. In addition to this was a
comprehensive syllabus to guide your reading and a spiral-bound study guide
including helpful practice MCQs and short-answer questions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The following 15-weeks were great
fun, perhaps more so for me as an interested amateur. The class of 20-odd
students was a fantastically international group and split 50:50 between those
actually in the wine or restaurant trade and others, like myself, just there to
follow their passion. For those actually in the trade, many were funded by
their companies which brought obvious added pressure to their studying. There’s
a lesson in that for the NHS and our dwindling study leave… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Over the 15-weeks we enjoyed a
vinous tour of all the world’s main wine regions interspersed with some of the
more technical and commercial aspects of vineyards, winemaking, retail and
consumption. Each 2-hour class had a particular focus and the 6 wines or
spirits tasted were carefully chosen to illustrate that evening’s learning
objectives. This ensured the classes remained ‘hands-on’, but also gave an
opportunity to go into a detailed tasting of the wines guided by an expert in
the area. Some people are naturally gifted at finding gooseberries in their
sauvignon blanc and blackberries in their cabernet sauvignon. I am not blessed
to be one of them. Thankfully the course teaches the WSET® ‘systematic
approach’ to wine tasting. I was relived to discover that PubMed and meta-analysis
were not required for this particular systematic approach, rather a stepwise
analysis of technical factors such as the clarity, acidity, tannin, alcohol
levels and suchlike in addition to the often-lampooned descriptors of taste and
flavours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The tasting didn’t always end at
the class either; the course was a great opportunity to meet likeminded
enthusiasts (another wine euphemism: ‘enthusiast’ = wine nerd) and we were soon
staying on for dinner locally and organising separate wine tastings together
with the excuse of ‘exam revision’. This proved to be a remarkably good excuse
for popping the corks on some great wines!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The end of the course came all too
quickly, and was accompanied by a not particularly welcome exam. For the Level
3 Advanced course, this consisted of 50 MCQs, 5 short answer questions and a
blind tasting of two wines. Each of these required a detailed tasting note with
conclusions regarding development, value and an attempt at identifying the
particular wine from a range of options. A couple of sample MCQ questions are
given in <b>Table 2</b>. The exam was not easy, set at an equivalent level to
A-level / AS-Level, and I was relieved to subsequently pass; a number of other
students didn’t make the grade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Table 2:Level 3 Advanced Course Sample MCQs<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Q. Which one of the following is the key factor in determining the quality of the wines in Ribera del Duero?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">a) Maritime influence<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">b) Altitude<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">c) Summer Rain<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">d) Cold air descending from the Pyrenees<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Q. Which one of the following is a fining agent?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">a) Potassium bicarbonate<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">b) Sulphur dioxide<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">c) Kieselguhr<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">d) Bentonite<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 150%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What did I learn? Was it worth it?
Absolutely, yes. For someone who thought he knew something about wine, this
course made me realise that there are huge wine producing areas (mainly outside
of Europe) that I really have embarrassingly little knowledge of. So for the
enthusiastic amateur, that alone is a great reason to undertake these classes –
just think of all those new wines waiting for you to broaden your palate and
discover them! But more than that, the course gives you a solid grounding in
other areas you might otherwise gloss over: the factors influencing wine
quality, price and even aspects of alcohol law and social responsibility.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While these sorts of advanced
courses don’t come cheap, you won’t be charged much more than a current Basic
Surgical Skills course, and the WSET® variety tastes a lot nicer too. Put all
that context and either the WSET® sourced my 78 glasses of wine for the course
very cheaply, or someone somewhere is really over-charging for pigs trotters.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So no matter how severely afflicted
you are with recurrent medical course-itis, there’s a lot of fun to be had from
nurturing your vinous interests through evening classes such as these. Enjoyment
of wine is what nature intended.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*<i>Other wine courses are
available. Always read the instructions before use</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>For further information on
accredited courses across the country and internationally check: </b><a href="http://www.wsetglobal.com/">http://www.wsetglobal.com/</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WSET, 39-45 Bermondsey Street
London SE1 3XF<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The WSET® is a Registered Charity (No.
313766)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Acknowledgements<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With thanks to David Wrigley AIWS MW,
Global Communications Director at WSET® London, for providing the background
information.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-72715293649934366262013-01-19T23:53:00.001+00:002013-01-20T00:08:50.788+00:00Louis Roederer Champagne Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yO-oXA2MRK4/UPsxs_WAbmI/AAAAAAAAAHE/lWZV5do_384/s1600/IMAG0187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Louis Roederer Champagne Tasting Notes" border="0" height="401" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yO-oXA2MRK4/UPsxs_WAbmI/AAAAAAAAAHE/lWZV5do_384/s640/IMAG0187.jpg" title="Louis Roederer Champagne Tasting Notes" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer Champagne Tasting Notes</b> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Vivat Bacchus, 14 Jan 2013<br /><br />The famous house of Louis Roederer was founded in 1776, and although the family name was lost through marriage, direct descendents are still involved in running the house.<br /><br />The house produces approximately two-thirds of its own grape requirements. Bought-in grapes are only used for the NV wine; the vintage wines are come from 100% own vineyards. These are located in all three main growing areas (Côte des Blanc, Montagne de Reims, and Vallée de la Marne). Roederer have more biodynamic vineyards than any other producer; the feeling is this leads to riper grapes. A proportion of these are going into Cristal.<br /><br />Generally malolactic fermentation is avoided where possible in order to maintain freshness. The reserve wines are kept in large old oak vats (not barrels) so as to minimise any oak character.<br /><br />Disgorgement takes place after 3 years (although legally only 15 months is required). Freshly bottled wines are kept for a further 6 months prior to release.</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> To give some perspective on production, the house makes slightly more than Pol Roger or Bollinger.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Wines and related </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&field-keywords=Louis%20Roederer%20&linkCode=ur2&tag=bacchuoxfordu-21&url=search-alias%3Daps" target="_blank">Champagne Louis Roederer</a> </b><img alt="" border="0" class="jrqhrsgiwqpadvjjszoc" height="1" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=bacchuoxfordu-21&l=ur2&o=2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />products are available <b><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&field-keywords=Louis%20Roederer%20&linkCode=ur2&tag=bacchuoxfordu-21&url=search-alias%3Daps" target="_blank">here</a></b><img alt="" border="0" class="jrqhrsgiwqpadvjjszoc" height="1" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=bacchuoxfordu-21&l=ur2&o=2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />.</span></span> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A generic range of <b><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&field-keywords=champagne&linkCode=ur2&rh=n%3A266239%2Ck%3Achampagne&tag=bacchuoxfordu-21&url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks" target="_blank">Champagne guide books</a></b><img alt="" border="0" class="jrqhrsgiwqpadvjjszoc" height="1" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=bacchuoxfordu-21&l=ur2&o=2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> for the wines and region are available <b><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&field-keywords=champagne&linkCode=ur2&rh=n%3A266239%2Ck%3Achampagne&tag=bacchuoxfordu-21&url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks" target="_blank">here</a></b><img alt="" border="0" class="jrqhrsgiwqpadvjjszoc" height="1" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.co.uk/e/ir?t=bacchuoxfordu-21&l=ur2&o=2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer </b></span>Brut Premier NV</b><br />A blend of 6-8 vintages hailing from 400 plots of vines. It accounts for approximately two-thirds of the house’s production. This is approximately 30% chardonnay, 20% pinot meunier with the remainder pinot noir. Medium lemon colour. Little persistence of bubbles, probably more to do with the glasses than the Champagne. Soft, bready, yeasty nose. Very light, fine mousse. Medium acidity. Medium length. This is a really very good NV, better than many houses prestige bottlings.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer </b></span>Blanc de Blanc 2006 </b>(Côte des Blanc grapes)<br />Very small production, with approximately only 600 bottles allocated to the United Kingdom. As for many Blanc de Blanc, the pressure is reduced to 4 atmospheres (from typical ~6) to aim for a ‘creamy’ taste, otherwise the wine is too acid sharp. Because of the higher acidity in Blanc de Blancs, the wines have a greater potential for ageing. Lees-aged for an extended period. This is medium-plus lemon. Fine mousse, but again troubled by little persistence. Noticeably richer nose. Fuller, more creamy palate. Very fine. Typically £70/bottle in UK where available.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer </b></span>Vintage 2006</b> (Montagne de Reims grapes)<br />The production for this wine is centred around Verzenay. Approximately 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay. The vintage bottling of Louis Roederer pre-dates the creation of Cristal. Medium lemon. Firmer mousse, fine and more persistent. This is a more structured wine. Spicy fruit rather than berry fruit. Medium acidity. More meaty on the palate. Long finish. This has ~20-years ageing capacity. Around £55/bottle in UK. Very fine.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer </b></span>Brut Rosé 2007</b> (Vallée de la Marne)<br />Production centres around Cumières. Maceration takes place on the skins – they are the last producer to do this apparently. It sees 6-10 days skin contact and approximately 30% chardonnay is also blended into the wine before fermentation. Pale salmon pink. Light red berry and firmness of structure. Medium acidity. Good for ~5 years ageing. This is a perfectly fine rosé, but not a style of wine I particularly appreciate myself.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer </b></span>Cristal 2000</b><br />The first ever prestige cuvee, created in 1876 for Alexander II of Russia. Named after the clear ‘crystal’ the bottle was originally made from. Blend of the 3-main grape producing areas, approximately one-third from each. Only produced in the best vintages. Approximately 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay. Medium lemon. Hints of honey and tropical fruits on the nose. Firmer mousse. Structured, medium-plus acid, really rich. Long finish. Excellent. £180-200/bottle in the UK (no longer listed).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Louis Roederer </b></span>Cristal 2005</b><br />Recently released in November 2012. Pale/medium lemon. Notably different nose, with youthful lemon notes in contract to the 2000 vintage which seemed richer and more mature in comparison. Lighter, floral, crisp. More mineral at this stage with a similarly big structure behind it. Currently retailing at £105/bottle in the UK.</span></div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-79302899642064738672012-11-27T13:42:00.000+00:002012-11-27T13:45:17.165+00:00Syrah and Blends - Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Boukenhoutskloof - The Chocolate Block 2011</b> (Western Cape,
South Africa)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A blend of two-thirds Syrah, with the remainder made up of Grenache,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Viognier. Decanted immediately prior to
serving. Clear, with deep purple colouring. Really notably long slow-running tears
inside the glass. Clean nose, very open, with pronounced intensity of sweet
spices and black fruits. Really attractive. Medium-plus acidity, high tannin
and full-bodied on the palate. Pronounced flavour intensity with strong black
fruit characters and a long finish. Excellent quality, excellent value and at
least a decade of cellaring potential ahead of it. 17/20. I’ve never been disappointed
by the wines from Boukenhoutskloof, and this really ought to cost more than the
£20 it retails for!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Chateau de Beaucastel<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Chateauneuf-du-Pape
1995 </b>(Rhone, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Decanted immediately before tasting. Despite having being
stood for >24 hours, there was still a very fine sediment in the wine that
needed additional time to settle out after pouring. Not optimal lighting
conditions, but medium garnet in colour with long tears running down inside the
glass. Clean, open nose with pronounced intensity. Obvious Brett characters
coming across, which obviously will appeal to some and not to others. For me it
is the definition of a good Beaucastel and one of my main reasons for enjoying
their wines! Not the strongest Brett character I have come across in their
wines, but certainly farmyard aromas. Fully developed. The palate was dry with
medium acidity and soft, rounded tannins. Medium-plus body with mature fruit
characters from tertiary bottle development. Medium length finish. I think this is
showing some bottle variation and not quite as good as others I have tasted.
Overall this gave the impression of being at the end of its drinking plateau
and tiring out. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Over the course of 1-2 hours tasting it really began to dry
out. I note Parker’s original tasting note had this down as drinking RP:
2006-2025. While it is still really enjoyable, I probably won’t be keeping my remaining
bottles that long on the basis of this one.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Rosemount Estate - Balmoral Syrah 1999</b> (McLaren Vale, Australia)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Confusing given Rosemount are based in Hunter Valley, this
wine actually hails from vineyards in the McLaren Vale region. Decanted prior
to drinking, this had thrown fine tannin throughout. Still holding an
inky-opaque colour. Clean, open and pronounced nose still revealing some of the
vanilla character of its very long (18 months+) American oak barrel aging.
Black fruits, logan, white and sweet spices. Complex and really beautiful. One
to just sit and smell and appreciate. The palate is similarly intense, with well balanced tannins set against
a full-bodied, black fruit core. Medium acidity. Good length. Really excellent
and enjoyable. 17+/20.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Over the 2-3 hours this was enjoyed it really started to
lose its fruit and dry out quite quickly, suggesting to me that this is slowly
coming to the end of its drinking plateau. Certainly there is enough fruit
there to keep for another 3-5 years but really I think it is going to start slowly
sliding downhill from here. Penfolds ‘Rewards of Patience’ have this as
drinking through to 2012, hence opening now, although this is perhaps a touch
conservative by a year or two (depending on how you like your wine).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The thing that gets me about these Australian Syrah wines is
how the parabola of their development is rather different to what I’m used to
- compared to, say, a Northern Rhone Syrah. Even at 13-years old this comes
across as more youthful than the equivalent Northern Rhone – less tertiary,
bottle aged character. Perhaps cleaner winemaking, yeast or Brett related? They
mostly stay like this and just dry out whereas I am used to Rhone Syrah wines that
evolve more first. In that way you could say that these wines have a ‘flatter’
drinking plateau whereas the Northern Rhone wines have a much more varied
parabola over their life cycle – they change and evolve through more tastes and
stages.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This was originally judged a 5-star wine in a Decanter
tasting, and agree with every bit of that. Not the best-value given its
number-one premium status in the Rosemount line-up, but really excellent wine.</span></div>
</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-56293716458773184172012-11-03T23:50:00.001+00:002012-11-04T08:54:20.338+00:00German Wines from the VDP: Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3pl3SKW9MvI/UJWvYvYFm-I/AAAAAAAAAGc/LgnnCetAsfA/s1600/IMG_20121030_203731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="German Wines from the VDP: Tasting Notes" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3pl3SKW9MvI/UJWvYvYFm-I/AAAAAAAAAGc/LgnnCetAsfA/s640/IMG_20121030_203731.jpg" title="German Wines from the VDP: Tasting Notes" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">German Wines from the VDP: Tasting Notes</span></b> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Oxford University Wine Society played host to the
wine-writer and historian Giles MacDonogh <a href="http://www.macdonogh.co.uk/index.htm">http://www.macdonogh.co.uk/index.htm</a>
, who provided and up-date to changes in the VDP wine classifications together
with a guided tasting of representative wines.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Since its foundation in 1910 the Verband Deutscher
Qualitäts- und Prädikatsweingüter (Pradikat Wine Estates), better known as the
VDP, the world’s oldest wine growers association has been dedicated to the
relationship between producer, site and quality.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Over the past decade the Association has developed a classification
pyramid for wines, which from the 2012 vintage has changed somewhat to reflect
a pyramid based on the traditional Burgundian model. This equates to:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• <b>VDP Grosse Lage </b>(like Grand Cru in Burgundy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• <b>VDP Erste Lage</b> (like Premier Cru in Burgundy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• <b>VDP Ortswein</b> (like Village in Burgundy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• <b>VDP Gutswein </b>(like Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The terms <b>Erste Lage </b>and <b>Grosses Gewächs </b>are private brands
of the VDP. To complicate things slightly, in the Rheingau they will
simply be referred to as <b>Erstes Gewächs </b>(as this classification is a legally
part of the wine law there).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The goal is to implement the “one wine principle” for <u>dry
wines</u> bearing the name of a classified vineyard site. A dry wine from a VDP
Grosse Lage is a “Grosses Gewächs”. The traditional Prädikats are reserved for
all wines with natural, ripe sweetness.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It is up to each region to decide whether or not to
differentiate between great sites (i.e. VDP Grosse Lage) and very good sites
(i.e. VDP Erste Lage).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Association provides a detailed over-view in English on
its website: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">http://www.vdp.de/en/vdp-die-praedikatsweingueter/</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Wine Tasting Notes</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Schl<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ö</span>r, First Weissburgunder GG 2011 </b>(Baden)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Weissburgunder = Pinot Blanc.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Clear, pale lemon-green and rather watery appearance. Open,
medium intensity nose. Buttery malolactic notes, almost vanilla like.
Herbaceous and a little grassy. Rather typical Pinot Blanc character and
certainly developed. Dry and medium acidity on the palate. Quite marked high
alcohol levels and hot in the mouth. Medium body and medium flavour
characteristics. Medium finish. A rather medium wine, and served too warm to do
it justice.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Hans Wirsching, Kroonsberg Silvaner GG 2011 </b>(Iph<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">öfer,
Franken)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Clear, pale lemon appearance. Closed nose. Clean with
light-intensity. Difficult to discern any characteristics. Off-dry palate with
medium acidity. Hot alcohol. Medium intensity with marked stoney and herbaceous
characters. Again, served to warm but this is only good at best.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Trocken 2011</b> (Pittersberg, Nahe)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Clear, medium lemon yellow appearance. Clean nose with medium
intensity. Floral and blossom characters predominate. Rather classic young Riesling
flavour profile, but not that expressive (currently). Off-dry palate with
medium acidity. Medium alcohol. Full bodied with medium-pronounced flavour
intensity. Very mineralic and stony with citrus characters. Long and
concentrated finish. Very good quality and much to give.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling 2011 </b>(Rheingau) </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Clear, medium lemon appearance. Clean and light nose – gives the
impression of being very youthful and closed. Medium-plus intensity, quite
aggressive in a positive way. Dry, high acidity and strong citrus flavours
characters. Long finish. Very good quality and even more concentrated than the
previous wine. Drinking well but will improve and develop further.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>Wehrheim Kastanienbusch Riesling GG 2011 </b>(Pfalz)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Clear, deep lemon appearance with noticeable legs inside the
glass. Clean nose, medium intensity. Lemon characters and flower blossom.
Developing. Very clean, delineated and focussed in character. Dry plate, medium
acidity hiding behind a full body. High alcohol but again being served too warm
really. Pronounced intensity. Mineralic and very Alsatian in style (southern
Pfalz in origin). Long length of finish and almost a little spicy. A powerful
wine and very good quality.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>Grafen Neipperg Ruthe Lemberger 2010</b> (Württemberg)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Lemberger = Blaufränkisch</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Clear, pale garnet appearance. Legs inside the glass. Clean nose
with medium intensity. Earth, savoury, farmyard and animal characters.
Developed. Dry palate with medium acidity and high alcohol – might be a good
example of a red wine that benefits from being served cool. Medium body. Medium
tannin levels. Red fruit flavour characteristics, more simple than the nose
would suggest. Medium finish. Good quality, not for keeping. I note this wine
is priced at quite a high point and this does not offer good value for money internationally,
a curse suffered by many German red wines unfortunately.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>H. Schlumberger Altenberg Spätburgunder 2010 </b>(Baden)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Spätburgunder = Pinot Noir.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Clear, paly ruby colour with legs. Clean, open and expressive nose
with medium intensity. Black cherries and also some smoky and spicy aromas
which I suspect are from time in wood. Dry palate with medium-plus acidity.
Medium tannin, more than the previous Lemberger. Has some balance to it but
powerful in style rather than elegant. Can drink now but has some short-term
potential. Long finish but really just hot rather than flavour. I would say
almost slight New World in character. Good quality overall.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Prinz Jungfer Riesling Auslese 2007 </b>(Rheingau)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Clear, medium gold in appearance. Nose is clean with medium
intensity. Sweet fruits but no botrytis. Developing? Sweet palate. Low acidity –
noticeable – not nearly enough. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leave
the wine a little unbalanced in the sweetness for a typical / classic Riesling
Auslese. Full bodied. Perhaps a little caramel on the palate. Long, sweet
finish. Good quality and drinking now. I think without the acidity this is not
a keeper and better as aperitif as slightly simple without any botrytis
character.</span></div>
</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-41475593550797536862012-10-28T23:13:00.001+00:002012-10-30T12:14:01.679+00:00Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio - Barolo Monprivato Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio - Barolo </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Monprivato </span>Tasting Notes</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Castiglione Falleto, Barolo, Italy</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Guided tasting presented by Guillaume Puzo, Thierry
Desseauve and Patricia Stefanowicz MW including the following wines:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- Barbera d'Alba,
Scudetto, red, 2007</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato, red, 2001</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato, red, 1996</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato, red, 1989</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2004</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2003</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Historic estate making classic, age worthy Barolo established
by Giuseppe Mascarello in 1881. The first vineyard in Monprivato was purchased
in 1904, with the rest of the vineyard cru purchased in the later 1980’s making
it a ‘monopole’ of which Mascarello are therefore the sole producer. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Monprivato is a noted historic vineyard, having been
documented in land registry archives back to 1666. In 1985 Renato Ratti listed
it as one of the 11 first-category historic vineyards of the Barolo
wine-growing area. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Area</b>: approx 6 hec (15 acres)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Altitude</b>: 280 m above sea level</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Facing</b>: ideally situated SW facing vineyard (sun all day
long)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Soil</b>: Silty, calcareous with active limestone incl blue-grey
marl.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Located in the Commune of Castiglione Falletto, with a
winery in Monchiero. The wine is made only using larger barrels of varying age,
so generally avoiding the undue influence of wood on the wine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Barolo Monprivato Ca' d' Morissio is the result of a
selection of vines began in the vineyard from an old clone of the Nebbiolo
Michét sub-variety grown on the Monprivato vineyard since 1922. This is richer
in aroma and tannin and suitable for longer aging. It spends 2-years in wood
prior to bottling. The hallmark of these wines is said to be “elegance and
beauty” with a more silky nature. It was highlighted that “balance ensures the
wines can age, not power”.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Barbera d'Alba, Scudetto, 2007</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Clear and bright with an opaque core of ruby and a
pink-tinged rim. Long running legs in the glass. Nose is clean, medium
intensity with marked sour cherry and black spice. Developing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the palate, dry, medium-plus acidity and
tannins. The body is medium weight and balanced. The flavours are mainly black
fruits, black cherries and spices. Medium length finish. Already 5-year old,
this does still taste quite primary and while it is drinking well now it will
doubtless hold a few more years probably without developing much more
complexity. A more serious style of Barbera d'Alba, very pure.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 2001</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pale-medium garnet, clearly a change to nebbiolo from the
previous wine. Long legs in the glass. Nose is clean but really rather closed
and a little austere. Medium intensity at most, still developing. Dry palate
and high, drying tannins. High acidity. Medium-plus body and alcohol. Long
finish. Does this need more time to develop? I think this is probably all
indicative of a very young Barolo, but I have to say its difficult to see the
trajectory that would take it to the level of the wines that followed. The 2001
was a great vintage, so time will tell.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Clear ruby-garnet, actually noticeably darker than the much
younger 2001 tasted prior to this. Long legs in the glass. Clean and medium
intensity on the nose, still developing. Open notes of smoked bacon, earth and
animal in character. Dry palate with high acidity and enamel-strippingly high tannin
levels. Medium-plus alcohol and full-bodied. Long finish. Altogether a very
classic Barolo. Quite fierce in its intensity currently – I imagine it will need
another decade to get into its stride.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Clear medium appearance with garnet rim and ruby body. Long
legs inside the glass. Clean nose, medium intensity and really seemed to be
getting into its stride. Open with developed complex earth and animal notes
rising out of the glass. Dry palate with high acidity and incredibly strong
high tannin levels despite its age. Medium-plus alcohol and really full bodied.
Flavour characteristics of fine tea, really pronounced and complex. Long length
of finish. This is remarkable and still has over a decade of life ahead of it!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2004</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The "Ca' d' Morissio" wine is made only from the Nebbiolo
Michét clone. The difference from the previous wines is clearly discernible.
Clear garnet appearance, medium intensity. Long legs inside the glass. Nose is
clean and getting towards being more pronounced. Still developing, but
fascinating and complex savoury notes. Quite animal and smokey bacon like.
Plate is dry with high acidity, and medium alcohol. High tannins but a richer
wine with more body behind it to balance it all out. Elegant and really
polished. This is a great wine, with decades ahead of it. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2003</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As per the previous wine, the "Ca' d' Morissio" is
made only from the Nebbiolo Michét clone and the difference is clearly discernible.
Clear, medium intensity and noticeably more garnet that the ’04. The nose is
also more closed up in contrast to the palate which is more open. Dry, with
high acidity and tannins. Very elegant again with similar characteristics on
the plate – complex, savoury and animal. Full bodied and rich. At this stage,
seemingly not quite as fine as the 2004 but nonetheless more impressive than
the standard Barolo and a very fine wine. Similar to the others, this clearly
has decades ahead of it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In conclusion, the "Ca' d' Morissio" wines were
very obviously a step-change ahead of the standard Monprivato Barolo. Just as Guillaume
Puzo stated, “elegance and beauty” are very suitable and obvious descriptors –
these wines really are silky. My preferred wines of the tasting in descending order
of preference were:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2004 (excellent / outstanding)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">2. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2003 (excellent)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">3. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989 (very good+)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996 (very good)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The really classic style of these wines together with the longevity
that imbues was perhaps the most stand-out learning points from this tasting. They
are not for beginners given the ferocity of tannin and acidity, but careful
cellaring will reward the patient enthusiast… probably around the time they
retire!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">To put this all in context, the ‘standard’ Barolo retails
for approx. GBP£60-70 and the "Ca' d' Morissio" GBP£180-220 / bottle
in the UK in 2012.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-53627423889837627002012-09-26T18:22:00.002+01:002012-09-26T18:34:53.681+01:00Summer Red Wine tasting notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VZVt0rFTqP4/UGM6duHbDVI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/7_aq4hgo6Pw/s1600/IMG_20120818_111351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Domaine de la Chevalerie “Vieilles Vignes” Bourgueil 2005" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VZVt0rFTqP4/UGM6duHbDVI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/7_aq4hgo6Pw/s640/IMG_20120818_111351.jpg" title="Domaine de la Chevalerie “Vieilles Vignes” Bourgueil 2005" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine de la
Chevalerie “Vieilles Vignes” Bourgueil 2005</b> (Loire, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Quite different to previous wines tasted from this excellent
producer, although this shouldn’t be surprising as the wines tend to be true to
the vintage and this is the excellent 2005 vintage. Rather than the typical
classic cab franc character usually encountered, this is still relatively
primary and red fruit dominated despite 7-years of age. Enjoyable now but the
best is yet to come. From previous experience this should have a good decade of
development ahead of it. 16/20 currently. Will improve. 13.5% alc.</span></div>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K_gowJ0esZs/UGM6yRyNXNI/AAAAAAAAAFY/eSxcWIex2SY/s1600/IMG_20120818_111832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Domaine de la Rectorie “Le Seris” Collioure 2001 (Collioure, France)" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K_gowJ0esZs/UGM6yRyNXNI/AAAAAAAAAFY/eSxcWIex2SY/s640/IMG_20120818_111832.jpg" title="Domaine de la Rectorie “Le Seris” Collioure 2001 (Collioure, France)" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine de la
Rectorie “Le Seris” Collioure 2001</b> (Collioure, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stood for an hour before opening and decanted half-an-hour
before tasting (given its continuing improvement, in retrospect I would say
needs 1-hour+). Served at a cool room temperature. Deep ruby but not by any
means opaque. Nose gradually opened up developing quite rich fruit-cake aromas (must
be Grenache dominated?)with some black pepper. Palate is broad and notably hot;
the 14.8% alc does show but doesn’t overly detract given the concentration of
the palate. My only criticism is that it is a little plump and the acidity is
not as fresh as I would like. But then this is not surprising given its
provenance. This makes for a very full and rich wine, which despite is age
(11-years) does not appear that tertiary in character. Nonetheless, I think
this is probably peaking and I personally wouldn’t risk keeping it further.
Needs a big rich accompaniment – on this occasion steak and ale pie! 16.5/20. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">NB.</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Of
note, I have also had several bottles of the 2004 vintage of this wine, all of
which have been faulty. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">ADDENDUM</b>:
re-tasted the remainder 4-days after opening and it had continued to develop
into a lovely glass of wine, much more brooding and deep on the nose without
really fading on the palate. Decant well in advance and consider keeping a little
longer?</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Bodega Norton Malbec
Reserva 2009</b> (Mendoza, Argentina)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Almost opaque deep ruby. Open nose, concentrated, pronounced
dark berry fruits, quite rich and ripe, almost chocolaty! Palate is similarly
rich and broad – weighty with some real stuffing. A touch warm, but balanced by
the high levels of concentrated ripe fruit and medium tannins. At this stage it
is more fruit than tannin. Could have done with slightly higher acidity levels
I feel. Good medium length finish. I imagine this would go very nicely with a
South American steak. 14.5% alc. Will clearly keep medium term and probably
longer, although personally I like the way it comes across now and not sure how
it would improve with age if it lost the appealing dark fruit character. I
should note that this doesn’t really resemble your typical Cahors malbec, quite
different in style and character. Needs opening a couple of hours in advance
and preferably decanting to open it up, although not currently throwing any
sediment (yet).16.5/20. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chateau Chasse-Spleen<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cru Bourgeois 2000</b> (Moulis-en-Medoc,
Bordeaux, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Enjoyed at the O&C. Half-bottle, decanted immediately
before drinking. Deep ruby, moderately open nose but still coming across as
very young. None of those classic tertiary, bottle-aged notes have started to
develop yet. Palate just turning towards some degree of an aged-character,
softening out a little bit from the primary fruit I expected, but still a long,
long way from any sort of maturity. Concentrated, full and ripe with firm tannic
structure behind it. Impressively youthful for 12-years old, especially given
this is from a half-bottle. Testament to the fabulous 2000 vintage, this has a
long life ahead of it. I’d be tempted to open my next to taste in another 5 to
10-years. 16.5/20 (and will likely score higher in future).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Candido Duca
d’Aragona 1999</b> (IGT Salento Rosso, Italy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Blend of Negro Amaro and Montepulciano. Decanted in
advance. Getting a little tired at 13-years old. Light ruby with brick-red rim.
Nose quite dark and brambly. Not particularly open despite decanting. Earthy, coffee,
tertiary notes. Palate quite firm, full bodied and intense. Powerful dark
fruits and firm, dry, tannic grip. Starting to fade? Warm at 14% alc but the
body of the wine easily handles it. Good length, quite a black spice finish,
very drying. Needs red meat or hard strong cheese to balance it out. I wonder
what this was like a few years ago? A little disappointing for an expensive,
flagship wine - I think we’ve missed its prime. 15.5/20. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">NB. I note the 2001 received 3-stars in the 2008 Decanter World Wine
Awards – I think there are better Salento reds than this to track down.</i></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine D’Aupilhac
Montpeyroux 2001</b> (Coteaux du Languedoc, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Produced by the notable winemaker Sylvain Fadat. Decanted
an hour before drinking, then tasted over the next 24-hours. Deeply opaque.
Moderately open nose of black fruits – not showing much aged tertiary
characters. Plate is all strong black olives with a touch of tobacco. Really
full-bodied, a little rustic, with very firm tannins. Non-filtered, and it
tasted like it. 14.5%, but doesn’t taste hot at all. This demands a big slab of
meat or game, or strong hard cheese to accompany it. At 11-years old this is
showing remarkable well. Which way is this going to go from here? I’m not
entirely sure, perhaps as I would never have expected it to make it this far so
well! Kept very well in the decanter for over 24-hours so I suspect it isn’t
going to fade away any time soon. One bottle left that I will keep a few more
years to see. 16.5/20.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aK4-15nuUZ8/UGM7WC3fjqI/AAAAAAAAAFo/Tl-Y_UboiZQ/s1600/IMG_20120818_112043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Seghesio Barbera d’Alba 2005 (Piedmont, Italy)" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aK4-15nuUZ8/UGM7WC3fjqI/AAAAAAAAAFo/Tl-Y_UboiZQ/s640/IMG_20120818_112043.jpg" title="Seghesio Barbera d’Alba 2005 (Piedmont, Italy)" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Seghesio Barbera
d’Alba 2005</b> (Piedmont, Italy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Light and fruit-driven Barbera. Jammy young juicy red fruits
and medium body. This is more of a pasta wine and was out-shone by anything
more meaty to accompany it. Good balancing acidity and light tannins. Tasty but
not too serious. Drinking well now but not for keeping further. 15/20.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p1d_13VosiM/UGM8nBBOrUI/AAAAAAAAAF4/teKhY-ech5A/s1600/IMG_20120828_144450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Chateau Montmirail "Cuvee de L'Ermite" 2004 (Vacqueyras, Rhone, France)" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p1d_13VosiM/UGM8nBBOrUI/AAAAAAAAAF4/teKhY-ech5A/s640/IMG_20120828_144450.jpg" title="Chateau Montmirail "Cuvee de L'Ermite" 2004 (Vacqueyras, Rhone, France)" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chateau Montmirail
"Cuvee de L'Ermite" 2004</b> (Vacqueyras, Rhone, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fair but unexciting. Would have been better drunk young.
More of a Cote-de-Rhone than anything more special. Drink up. 14.5/20. In the
list of Vacqueyras wineries, this is very middle-ranking. While producing
standard wines, nothing from here have ever really caught my interest and I
think there are probably better wine producers to visit in the village these
days.</span></div>
</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-3124040341770182612012-09-12T13:26:00.001+01:002012-09-12T13:42:43.206+01:00Dinner with Friends: Châteauneuf + Tokaji<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ukm17-kQUWk/UFB_2t5VWTI/AAAAAAAAAEk/ToHqIcEKORg/s1600/IMG_20120909_120703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pierre Gimonnet - Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc, Ch de Montmirail - Vacqueyras Blanc, Domaine Bois de Bourson - Châteauneuf du Pape, Vinarium - Château Messzelátó Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos " border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ukm17-kQUWk/UFB_2t5VWTI/AAAAAAAAAEk/ToHqIcEKORg/s640/IMG_20120909_120703.jpg" title="Pierre Gimonnet - Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc, Ch de Montmirail - Vacqueyras Blanc, Domaine Bois de Bourson - Châteauneuf du Pape, Vinarium - Château Messzelátó Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos " width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pierre Gimonnet -
Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc NV</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cellared for 5-years in addition to any bottle ageing
prior to original release. This was drinking beautifully. Clear and bright,
with a fine mousse. Soft, nutty characteristics held together with ample
acidity. Lovely aperitif but actually sufficient body to accompany the scallops
served as first course. Sadly Pierre Gimonnet has been well and truly ‘discovered’
since this was purchased and it pained me to look by and see how little had
originally been paid for this. Drinking well, no hurry.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ch de Montmirail -
Vacqueyras Blanc 2006</b> (Rhone, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Very classic Vacqueyras blanc in style. This was in the
balance as to whether to keep it or drink young. As it happened it was drinking
rather well, but had taken on a rather oxidised nutty and chemical character to
it. Was better served slightly warm rather than fridge cold. All-in-all though
I suspect this would have been better drunk in its youth. Too much body and a
real clash of flavours to go with the scallops. Drink up.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine Bois de
Bourson - Châteauneuf du Pape 1999</b> (Rhone, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This remains a remarkably enjoyable wine. Decanted an
hour before drinking and served at a cool room temperature after half-an-hour
in the fridge. Gloriously open with fully mature tertiary character on the nose
and a light touch of Brett adding lovely complexity. Classic Châteauneuf.
Gamey, woody, truffle and black spice. You could just sit and savour the aromas
for some time. Palate is very similar in character with fine tannins and
balancing acidity. Although this is fully mature and not going to improve
further there is no hint of tiredness discernible. To be enjoyed with great
drinking pleasure over the next 3-5 years would be my best guess (in spite of
what Mr Parker might say – included for reference below). Really excellent
value Châteauneuf du Pape.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">For reference, the Parker note:<i> 89 points. The saturated
dark ruby-colored 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape offers a big, Provencal bouquet of
earth, crushed pepper, garrigue, and black fruits. Pungent and spicy, with
rich, soft, full-bodied flavors, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-12
years.</i></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Vinarium - Château
Messzelátó Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1988
(</b>Tokaji, Hungary)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Château Messzelátó is documented as one of the leading
Tokaj estates. In the 1980s the wine was produced and bottled by Miklós Bene
who went on to become a leading player in the new Tokaji wine scene under the
Tokajbor Bene brand. The 1988 was exclusively available from Oddbins (sadly
deceased). This is very typical of Tokaji of the era. Dark colour, open typical
Tokaji nose of burnt marmalade notes with some notable oxidative character. Luscious
palate, orange fruit and nut character. High acidity offsets the sweetness very
effectively. Complex, although I suspect modern fans of Tokaji may find this quite
oxidised for their liking. Nonetheless remarkable wine to savour at the end of an
evening! Drink whenever; it may already be past its high-point but will last as
it is for many years to come.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dd7m0vBmpg4/UFB_LhIZFdI/AAAAAAAAAEM/Dy-7guF65MU/s1600/IMG_20120908_212049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dd7m0vBmpg4/UFB_LhIZFdI/AAAAAAAAAEM/Dy-7guF65MU/s640/IMG_20120908_212049.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-56253964340016068652012-09-07T20:46:00.002+01:002012-12-29T03:31:16.903+00:00Birthday Wines at the Atheneaum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ik-dkHP3RpM/UEpP_Be8cpI/AAAAAAAAAD0/XGpMuEuU-kM/s1600/IMG_20120824_210113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="M. Chapoutier Rivesaltes 1978 " border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ik-dkHP3RpM/UEpP_Be8cpI/AAAAAAAAAD0/XGpMuEuU-kM/s640/IMG_20120824_210113.jpg" title="M. Chapoutier Rivesaltes 1978 " width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine Weinbach
- Riesling Clos des Capucins 2008</b> (Alsace, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Given my love of this winery, this particular bottling
struck me as rather plain for them. Perfectly decent, perfectly reasonable,
I’ve perhaps just come to expect too much from them (based on the incredible Cuvée
Ste Catherine wines). Already quite evolved and kerosene on the nose. Perfect
to quaff on a summers evening such as this. Lightly mineralic with high
acidity. 15.5/20.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Fabien Jouves - Mas
Del Perie 'You Fuck My Wine?!' </b>(Vin de Table, Sud Ouest, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Oh, how I wish I had a picture of the label on this –
that really is what it is called. Thankfully the staff member opening this did
not have a European language as their first and I think (hope) the label was
lost on them. The story is that the wine maker was asked to remove the Jurancon
Noir in this ‘Cahors’ wine. The wine maker disagreed and released it with this
label as a message to them. This was actually really excellent. Youthful, characterful,
ripe and full bodied but with a nicely balancing relatively high acidity. Rich
Cherries, and quite distinctive with it. Far better than many local ‘Cahors’
wines. 17/20.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine Rossignol
Trapet - Latricières Chambertin Grand Cru 2006 </b>(Burgundy, France)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Latricières is a small parcel adjacent to Chambertin.
This is a little light for a Grand Cru in my books but very pure and
delineated. I hate to say it, but yes it is silky. Fine, classy, and classic.
Difficult to fault technically, Has it got the guts to age? Its already coming
across quite developed. I feel a little harsh saying this given it really is
very good, but it just doesn’t so it for me and I think there are gutsier Grand
Cru Burgundy that I would prefer over this. 16.5/20. Retails for around £70
with Majestic and perhaps that’s why I’d like a little more from it – but then
that’s just the price of Grand Cru Burgundy sadly, no matter what’s in the
bottle. In fact, cheaper than many!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">M. Chapoutier - Rivesaltes
1978 </b>(Languedoc-Roussillon, France)<span class="st"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="st">Vins Doux Naturel</span>. There were some
question marks as to how a ’78 of this wine would still be drinking. We really
needn’t have worried! Profound, high-toned, smooth and memorable. Probably
immortal. Still some sweetness on the palate, but the typical youthful richness
had moulded into something broader and quite special here. To be savoured
slowly with best friends. 17+/20.</span><br />
<br /></div>
</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-84738469187900599652012-08-28T21:58:00.004+01:002012-08-28T22:21:54.877+01:00Château Pesquié, Côtes du Ventoux<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ch</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">â</span>teau Pesquié, C</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ô</span>tes du Ventoux</b></div>
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A winery that I have been following for many years, over
which time I have developed a bit of a love-dislike (hate would be too strong)
/ frustrating relationship with. Putting to one side the fact that I think the Chateau and
estate are some of the most beautiful spots in the region, this is always a
slightly complicated wine – and not always in a good way. Over the years of
drinking quite a lot of wines from this producer (since late 1990's) I have come to see something
of a house-style, and it is one that will divide many. Perhaps it’s the
cellar-style, but they (and by this I mean the red wines) can be a little
idiosyncratic. This comes through in the whole range of reds from top to
bottom. On opening you can taste they all come from the same winery – the same
distinctive Brett, the same distinctive prickle of dissolved CO2 in the wines.
Sometimes (usually) it lifts to let the wine show itself, other times I’ve
ended up pouring the wine away when its just been overwhelming.</div>
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My advice would always be: don’t avoid these wines, but open
the reds wines and decant at least 6-hours before drinking to open them up and
shed a little of that funkiness.</div>
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In increasing order of depth, the wines (white and red)
are branded: ‘Terasses’, ‘Quintessence’ and Artemia (the latter from old vines
and made only in small quantities).</div>
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There follows an assorted tasting of wines and vintages
purchased direct from the winery a few years previously:</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ch</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">â</span>teau Pesquié “Quintessence” 2003 rouge</b>
(C<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ô</span>tes
du Ventoux, Rhône, France)</div>
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Old label looks a little backward on this now. This
current bottle is a good example of the ‘house style’ I refer too. “Quintessence”
is one of their top bottlings, but stylistically this is very similar to the
“Terrasses”, even given the big differences in vintages. Deep in colour, the
nose hurtles out of the glass at you. Startling levels of Brett with a whiff of
something that makes you wonder whether there’s actually a fault. Standard for
these wines. On tasting immediately after opening there is such a striking
attack that it is not uncommon to start coughing. Standard for these wines.
Once you’re past that you notice a slight prickle on the tongue of dissolved
carbon dioxide suggestive of secondary fermentation in the bottle. Standard for
these wines. Undoubtedly bottled without filtering. The palate is screamingly
full-throttle with almost choking levels of smoky Brett, and yes, rustic
appeal. BBQ wine second to none - this needs chargrilled food or strong hard
cheeses and it will do them proud. As it happens, the initial funkiness and
prickle in this wine dissipated over 24-hours. This has not been the case with
some previous bottles. The problem is that whereas this bottle has got the
balance right (although I dare say many would still disagree) for every few bottles
like this one may have been poured away for just taking it too far. More
than I care to remember have had some degree of dissolved CO2 almost hinting of secondary fermentation in them.
This particular wine is from a difficult year and early-ish in the winemaking
history of Ch<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">â</span>teau Pesquié. Was it clumsy wine making? Is it a statement?
Is the winemaker still trying to find their expression? Your
guess is as good as mine, but put this particular bottle with a BBQ steak
burger or some particularly noxious French cheese and you won’t be disappointed
so long as you can cope with a lot of Brett and a bit of funkiness. Drink now.
14% alc.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ch</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">â</span>teau Pesquié “Terasses” 2005 rouge</b> (C<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ô</span>tes
du Ventoux, Rhône, France)</div>
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Following on from the Quintessence, this is stylistically
very similar and despite being from the successful 2005 vintage there is not as
much variation as I would have expected. Even more Brett on the nose of this –
almost just mucky. Plate is a little lighter in body than the Quintessence,
despite being two-years younger. It is still pretty fierce though. Drink now
with bleeding red meat. Will probably drink well for another couple of years
without deteriorating, although I note the bottle gives a 5-year drinking
window (and this is now 7-years old). 15-16/20.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ch</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">â</span>teau Pesquié “Quintessence” 2004 <u>blanc</u>
</b>(C<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ô</span>tes
du Ventoux, Rhône, France)</div>
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Heavyweight bottle designed for body-pump training, much
like the rouge, and same modern-design label. Rousanne / clairette blend. Back label
advice of 5-year aging. This is now touching 8-years! Deep yellow in colour. Open
nose of a very typical southern-Rhone white. Pears and blossom. Very full and
rich in the mouth. Certainly not tasting old in any way. Heavyweight and fresh,
this could pass for a white Chateauneuf. Really rounded and a little oily on
the palate. Strong, bold, oxidative flavours. Acidity a little lacking. Tastes like the
13% alc that it is (in fact I suspect it is higher than this). Drink now. No
idea what food to partner this with – this would overwhelm most common partners. Not to everyone's taste but again, personally I like it. 16/20.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2OYkgwc9eC4/UD0yMVlZfSI/AAAAAAAAADk/qRXClSqsl9k/s1600/IMG_20120828_143131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2OYkgwc9eC4/UD0yMVlZfSI/AAAAAAAAADk/qRXClSqsl9k/s640/IMG_20120828_143131.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ch</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">â</span>teau Pesquié “Artemia” 2005 rouge </b>(C<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">ô</span>tes
du Ventoux, Rhône, France)</div>
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Similar weight-lifting style bottle, and same design label. Decanted
an hour in advance – probably should have been at least 12-hours in retrospect!
Deposit thrown in bottom and tannin welded to the glass inside the bottle.
'Flagship' Grenache-Syrah blend: old vines, tiny quantities, big prices. Back label advice: 15 years ageing. Opaque, deep red.
Open nose very much in the line of previous reds – house style you could almost
say – heavy Brett nose. Palate has similar prickle of dissolved CO2. As with the
other wines, this only got a fair showing the following day after 24-hours in
the decanter. Brett and CO2 prickle completely lifted. Nose now much more
primary red fruits and touch of vanilla. Classy and youthful. Chocolate and a
little stewed-fruit there too. Palate extremely rich and smooth. Full bodied,
but not overpoweringly so, fine tannins. This tastes really young still. Copious concentrated
red fruits, cherries, there’s certainly a bit of ‘garrigue’ in there too, very
much balanced with the tannin and acidity. This is indeed a wine for the long
haul. Needs rich red beef and wild dishes to do it justice currently. Great
stuff. 14% alc. Drinking beautifully now but will easily keep and develop depending
on the style you like. The best of the Chateau's wines without any doubt, and the best wine I have tasted from them period. 16-17/20. </div>
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-62438697046504649602012-08-22T21:22:00.001+01:002012-08-22T21:30:12.682+01:00White Rhone and a "Ripper"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PIrnXmsxZEo/UDU_XTo88qI/AAAAAAAAADM/LFmplPy1-No/s1600/IMG_20120818_200550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PIrnXmsxZEo/UDU_XTo88qI/AAAAAAAAADM/LFmplPy1-No/s640/IMG_20120818_200550.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Domaine Clos des Clazaux “Les Clefs D’Or” Vacqueyras blanc 2006</b> (Rhone, France)</div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
From
50-year old vines cropped at 30hl/hec. This has been a quality wine
(and something refreshingly different) when I have tasted it previously.
Served too cold, this is definitely a white with sufficient body to be
served a little warmed and in fact the reverse label makes reference to
this recommending 16C and an hour in a decanter! Plastic cork. Pale
yellow. Subdued nose when first opened, masked by the cold temperature.
AS it warms up it comes across as strong white fruits and pear with a
slight herbaceous character to it . The palate is richer and more
mineralic and full bodied than you would expect. Very concentrated white
fruits. Medium acidity. Long finish. Great value, and showing well for
6-years old. I sometimes wonder whether Domaine Clos des Clazaux’s
whites are actually better than their reds. Drinking great now,
difficult to predict how it will change further with keeping but its not
going to fall off its perch soon. 13.5% alc. This is still for me the
best white Vacqueyras. 16+/20.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">D’Arenberg ‘The
Dead Arm’ Shiraz 2006</b> (McLaren Vale, South Australia)</div>
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This wine has something of a cult following, and my first
bottle was sometime back in the late 1990’s around the time when Robert Parker
started rating it up in the high 90s. This is my first tasting from a case of this vintage,
already 6-years old. The story of why this is called ‘The Dead Arm’ is detailed
on the bottle and website - worth a read. This has spent 22-months in new mixed barrique.
Decanted before opening and enjoyed over 2 days. Inky black but not opaque.
Unsurprisingly there is no real age discernible on the rim. Immense young and
open nose of primary red fruit, dark spices and vanilla oak (tending towards
the American style). Very classic South Australian quality shiraz. The palate
is smooth balanced despite the huge richness and power to it – I would almost
go as far as saying elegant, which you would generally not use as a descriptor
for such a powerful wine. Black spices and dark red fruits predominate with a
touch of Balsamic. You would never think that was already 6-years old. This is
a masterful example of this style of wine and must have another 10 – 20 years
ahead of it. The ‘elegance’ required something like a fine fillet steak,
venison or maybe even rare Gressingham duck<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>to accompany it – its so smooth. 15% alc. 17/20.</div>
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-81108335778156138652012-08-21T23:52:00.002+01:002012-12-30T13:07:38.223+00:00August Whites: Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Schloss Schönborn Riesling 2007 </b>(Rheingau, Germany)<br />
A.P.NR. 3105202508<br />
Pale straw colour. Open nose showing a touch of maturity with a whiff of kerosene on a backdrop of citrus fruits. Palate is dominated by acidity but this seems a little out of balance with the strong lime and citrus fruits and slight sweetness. I think perhaps this might have been better broached earlier in its youth. Good mineralic grip on a medium finish. An enjoyable lunchtime summer wine. Refreshing, mouth-watering and pleasantly light at only 10%. Drink up. 14/20.<br />
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<b>Weingut Andreas Laible Durbacher Plauelrain Riesling Spätlese trocken SL 2002</b> (Baden, Germany)<br />
A,P,Nr, 514/33/03<br />
I have written a few tasting notes about several different wines bought from Weingut Andreas Laible on-site a number of years ago. By and large the experience has been disappointing; however for a few of these the wines were probably over-the-hill. The ‘SL’ represents a more superior bottling, and actually this particular wine does not disappoint despite heading to its 10th birthday this year. Stylistically this is quite different from the Mosel delicacy some German Riesling drinkers might be used to. Medium-yellow in colour, the nose is a little closed and unyielding. The palate however is a whole lot more concentrated, with a dense, concentrated mineralic core, ample acidity, and some white fruits and honey. Quite oily and a little residual sugar, although that is offset by the acidity nicely. I suspect because of that its actually sweeter than it tastes. Powerful finish. This seems like some hybrid cross between a lighter Mosel and a full-power Rheingau. I don’t know if there is some bottle variation with these wines given previous experiences, but this was tasted over several days and provided very enjoyable drinking. 12.5% alc. 16+/20. Drink up now.<br />
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<b>Chateau Thuerry “Le Château” blanc 2009</b> (Cotes de Provence, France)<br />
www.chateauthuerry.com<br />
Blend of Sémillon and Ugni Blanc. Situated in the Haut Var Verdun, this winery was an interesting visit in the heart of Provence two years ago. We have tasted an old cab sav from this winery previously that turned out to be a real star (despite my initial scepticism at the winery when we tasted it) so I have been impressed so far. The winery itself was memorable for being set in the most beautiful secluded hollow away from the main road and into the garrigue. A mix of Blofeld’s underground lair and exuberant modern art makes this all something of a showpiece winery. The fact we also received a complimentary bottle of their excellent olive oil also helped endear them to us! Now onto the wine: sealed with an artificial cork. Nose is open and decidedly herbaceous in character. Palate is quite broad, with strong lemony character coupled with a rich fullness and undercurrent of pronounced minerality. High glycerol. Dry and almost a little austere – but in a way that suggests this has more to offer in future. Well balanced acidity, sufficient to make it quite refreshing. This is an interesting wine, and more than just a lunchtime Provencal-quaffer. I would like to keep a bottle a few years and see how it develops. Good, lasting finish. 13% alc. 16+/20. <i>Note: this has sufficient body that it should not be served fridge cold – it gave out much more as it warmed up.</i><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Reinhold Haart -
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese 1990</b> (Mosel, Germany)</div>
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Light golden colour. Open nose, really mature light
kerosene notes dominating. Palate beautiful although slightly lacking in the
sort of mineralic concentration I was hoping for. Fresh acidity balancing out
medium sweetness levels. Perfect for a warm summer’s evening aperitif and all
the more special for holding up so well after 22-years! It has lost a little of
its shine but it is holding well and unlikely to fade away anytime in the next
couple of decades I would say. 16.5/20.</div>
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-55706738646808953992012-08-02T12:05:00.002+01:002012-09-11T16:19:44.123+01:00World Tour of Pinot Noir<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>World Tour of Pinot Noir – Bacchus Vintage tasting</b><br />
Friday 22 July 2012<br />
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My turn to provide the tasting after many years of talking about it. Finally. There follows a very diverse range of Pinot Noir with all the major wine producing regions represented apart from Australia (not a deliberate omission – just had difficulty in tracking down some good examples for the evening). Price points for the bottles ranged from ~£8 to ~£100.<br />
<br />
Most wine regions have a defining grape variety linked to them, but no-where has quite managed to entwine itself with a grape and a particular style of wine and wine making as Burgundy. It was interesting to see how many of the New World wines sought to emulate this, with a few notably going in their own direction (or perhaps they were just trying to emulate and got it wrong!)<br />
<br />
By and large the New World wines were all very good quality, similar in character and developing well for their age. So New World Pinot Noir can age quite well! But in a different trajectory to the Burgundy wines, although most of these were far too young to be able to get our heads around. Infanticide, and quite disappointing that the last three hadn’t even started to get into their stride yet. Should have gone for older vintages.<br />
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Also of note was the perceptibly hot alcohol levels on the initial New World wines, presumably from strenuous efforts to achieve optimum ripeness in what may be too-warm a climate for perfect Pinot Noir?<br />
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The overall winner for best wine on the night / most approachable now was the Wine Society Exhibition Martinborough Pinot Noir 2004 (produced by Craggy Range). Really excellent wine in quite a Burgundian mould.<br />
<br />
Top wines were as follows for first half of the tasting:<br />
<br />
1. Glen Carlou<br />
2. = Errazuriz<br />
= Bergacker Cuvee<br />
3. = Paul Cluver<br />
= Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz<br />
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For the second half of the tasting:<br />
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1. Wine Society Exhibition Martinborough Pinot Noir by Craggy Range<br />
2. Mazzis Chambertin Grand Cru<br />
3. Pommard 1er Cru<br />
4. = Domaine de la Salle Beaune Champimonts 1er Cru<br />
= Furst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
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The only wines to score no points (no-one voted for them) were the Robert Mondavi Carneros Napa Valley and the Domaine Jean Chauvnet Nuit-St-George. Frankly these didn't deserve any points.<br />
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<b>Glen Carlou Pinot Noir 2007 </b>(Paarl, South Africa)<br />
For what was anticipated to be at the lighter end of the spectrum of the wines tasted this evening, the introductory Glen Carlou Pinot Noir actually presented itself really well. Very pale, very open gamey nose. Nose has some Pinot Noir character but also a strong element of burnt tyre / Brett-like notes – not unpleasant. Full palate, a little hot. Short to medium finish. Given 5-years old, developed nicely. Probably not for keeping further. Not to everyone’s tastes, but I enjoyed. 16/20.<br />
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<b>Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir 2010 </b>(Casablanca, Chile)<br />
Really pale colour, very open. Rubbery notes again. Fruit based palate of primary red fruits. Quite fresh, and obviously in contrast to previous wine given its relative youth. Hot. Can’t imagine how / if this will develop with age, seems sufficiently light to be drinking now. 16/20.<br />
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<b>Paul Cluver Pinot Noir 2006</b> (Elgin, South Africa)<br />
Similarly light in colour. Very rich and spice-laden nose and palate. Again, rather hot. Similar in style to the previous two wines.16/20.<br />
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<b>Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz Spätburgunder trocken 2004</b> (Pflaz, Germany)<br />
Getting too old really. Very light - losing its already pale colour. Nose is very well-developed tertiary spicy character but mainly just comes across to me as just old, old wine really. Characterful. Remind me of a 1970’s claret! Not really Pinot Noir. Palate fading. Thin. Does this reflect a difficult vintage? Past best. 15/20.<br />
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<b>Robert Mondavi Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir 2008</b><br />
Young standard Pinot Noir colour. Jammy, primary nose. Palate tastes almost sweet and a little confected! Short finish. Given the price, this wine shows poorly in comparison to its peers in this tasting. At any price point I would be disappointed by it. 15/20. Not a single vote from any one at the end of the evening!<br />
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<b>Bergacker Cuvee 1999</b> (Pfalz, Germany)<br />
APR 50510451501<br />
Served as an ‘interlude’ wine for interest to break the tasting into two halves. 18 months in barrique. 60% cab sav, 30% Spatburgunder, 10% Dornfelder. This really caught people’s attention in the tasting. Comes across as a well-developed cab-dominant Medoc, in fact better than similar Chateau wines of that vintage that cost far more! In a blind tasting it would have thrown many, an no-one thought this could be a 1999! Lovely, pronounced mature cab notes without so much of the typical cedar-wood / cigar box. Tannic palate, firm structured but very nicely balanced. Good acidity. Medium finish. Really a very interesting wine for novelty tasting. 16+/20.<br />
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<b>Furst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder trocken 2005 </b>(Franken, Germany)<br />
Rich, ripe and full 2005 vintage shines through. This is a very polished wine, very concentrated and really would have shown better with quite a few years bottle-age. It really felt quite primary fruit still. I think this has promise. It certainly held its own against some far better-known wines. 16+/20.<br />
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<b>Sylvain Debord Côte de Nuit Village 2008</b><br />
A rather standard Côte de Nuit Village, very competent. Decent plus, for week day evenings really. Probably not for keeping further. 15/20.<br />
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<b>Wine Society Exhibition Martinborough Pinot Noir 2004 </b>(by Craggy Range)<br />
This wine was simply singing. The wine of the evening for many. The elegance of a soft and velvety Cote-de-Beaune with a little more structure and back-bone. Burgundian in style but distinctly different in its own way. Drinking very well now, although wouldn’t be afraid to keep longer in the short-term. 17/20.<br />
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<b>Domaine Jean Chauvnet Nuit-St-George 2005</b><br />
Well – this was interesting. Originally bought en primeur, I noted Jancis Robinson had not rated this. Most at this tasting would agree. In its own way, this was a reasonable wine. But not a Nuit-St-George as anyone knows it. Dark, soupy, too much of everything really. Over-extracted I would say. Not representative of grape or place. Ignoring all of that though, a decent enough wine if you’re looking for something relatively big and beefy. 15+/20.<br />
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<b>Domaine de la Salle Beaune "Champimonts 1er Cru" 2008</b><br />
Light, delicate, elegant, soft – the epitome of a mid-weight Beaune 1er Cru. This isn’t reaching for the skies, but it offers a good representation of the place and the style. Enjoyable.<br />
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<b>Dujac Morey-St-Denis 2008</b><br />
Given previous vintages of this have really rocked me, this was really quite underwhelming. Poor bottle? Poor vintage? Closed up, but without any suggestion it would ultimately come out of itself. Palate was just plain and not really showing anything either. I would like to think this is going through a metamorphosis into another, better stage, but I certainly wouldn’t purchase again at £40/bottle for fear that isn’t correct. Not scored. £55.<br />
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<b>Lejeune Pommard "</b><b>Rugiens </b><b>1er Cru" 2007</b><br />
Classic, powerful, four-square Pommard. Much preferred to the Nuit-St-George. Firm and relatively unyielding at this stage. Needs time. £65.<br />
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<b>Sylvian Cathiard Vosne-Romanee 2008</b><br />
Typical pale appearance, open nose. Showing the classic silkiness of a Vosne-Romanee, notable more rounder and polished than the wines either side of this. But actually has a fair backbone in there with tight tannins in need of softening out a bit. Well balanced. This will improve. £60.<br />
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<b>Naddef Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru 2008</b><br />
This wine merely hinted at what it will become in the future, and I think that will be something great. The concentration and fruit is all there. Maybe in another 10-years it will have knitted together. Tonight it hadn’t, it just teased us a bit about it. £100.</div>
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Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-15124133628869385452012-07-30T00:16:00.000+01:002012-12-30T00:59:08.799+00:00Domaine de L’Hortus Tasting Notes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Domaine de L'Hortus Tasting Notes</b></div>
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Since first visiting the winery in around 2002 I have a real love for this, the location and the family carefully making it. It is a gem, and despite the slow rise in price I am delighted this remains really excellent value. The magic is partly that of beautiful Pic Saint Loup itself, where in the summer the air is rich with thyme and scents of the garrigue. There are few other wines that manage to transfer this unique combination of aromas right into the bottle such that tasting it is like being back there again. Tasting it again always makes me wonder why I bother drinking anything else.
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<b>Domaine de L'Hortus Grande Cuvée 2008 </b>(Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux de
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Languedoc, France)
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Stood for several days and decanted over an hour before serving. Served cellar cool. Medium ruby. Immense heady nose of perfume rather than power – young, rich red fruits and thyme. Carries on through to the palate where the depth of concentration is just beautiful – like tasting liquid garrigue. Full and expressive but not over-powering in any way. Good length with soft finish. Drinking wonderfully now but still young. This probably has 5 years plus ahead of it, but the trouble is that lush youthful garrigue quality will mature into something softer – so while it won't deteriorate you have to drink this when its showing the style you prefer. This cost around £15 from a wine merchant in France. Spectacular. This will be up there in the running for one of my wines of the year. 13% alc. 17+/20. NB. Three-days after opening this was completely holding its own and drinking beautifully without any hit of
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fading. Monumental should describe it, but perhaps isn't appropriate as its really more contemplative and delicate than that.
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<b>Domaine de L'Hortus Grande Cuvée 2000 </b>(Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux de
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Languedoc, France)
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Opened with the previous wine. Fascinating contrast. Not lost as much colour as one might imagine. Main difference is the striking lack of aroma on the nose. Very closed, only faint hints of anything in comparison to the huge sensory character in the 2008. The palate is more delicate and subtle version of the 2008's liquid garrigue. It's all still there, but just held back and low key by comparison. The palate is otherwise hinting that it might be at the end of the plateau, but it remains enjoyable and I would say more balanced than the 2008. Tannins really faded but the fruit still there – for now. I think this is beginning to tire out. Drink up. 13% alc. 16.5/20. NB. Second day after opening this was alive and well but by the third day had faded on the plate as well.</div>
</div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-54168808071376616072012-07-13T18:28:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:30:26.455+01:00Mas de Daumas Gassac: the family behind the label<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><b>Mas de Daumas Gassac</b></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">The Family
Behind the Label</span></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">By
Dr Edward Fitzgerald</span></span></i></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><img align="right" border="3" height="266" hspace="3" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image529.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="3" width="200" />Looking out the car window into the September sunshine six
years seemed like a long time ago, but not much had changed.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">I
remembered my first contact, with the Guibert family, the owners of Daumas
Gassac, when as a University student new to all things wine, I found myself
heading on holiday to the baked slopes of the Languedoc. Keen to explore the regions
vineyards, I dropped them a simple note, “can I come and learn about your
wines?”</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Of
course, I didn’t expect much of a reply. Perhaps someone from marketing or a
secretary might get back to me eventually. Certainly, the leading wineries of
Bordeaux or
Barossa might have some small visitors centre with which to offer a commercial
welcome. But surely not even this in the depths of the Languedoc?
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Daumas Gassac always was different though. The fairy-tale story of
their winery has been told many times before; of the chance discovery of a
unique soil, of the work to produce - as Hugh Johnson puts it - “the one
first-growth estate of the Languedoc”. They managed to sell the
unsellable at a time when the wines of the Languedoc were mass produced <i>vin de table</i> of the most forgettable
proportions.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">So when I
received a personal reply from Samuel Guibert welcoming me to their <i>mas</i> I was surprised. Yet this human
touch has always made their wines special.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><img align="left" border="2" height="187" hspace="2" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image511.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="2" width="250" /></span>We turned the car off the tree lined “D” road and
followed the single-track lane away from civilisation into the depths of the
scorched <i>garrigue</i> scrub. Behind us,
the hills of the <i>Montagne Noire</i>, rose
precipitously from the Mediterranean coastal plain. In the clear September air
there were distant views of the mountains of the central massif. Outside, the
constant noise of crickets, just as it had been six years before and probably
always had been. Time moves slowly in these parts of southern
France. For most of the year it is
too hot to do otherwise.</span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">
</span></span><br />
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Daumas Gassac nestles in the foothills of the Black Mountains,
hidden away in the Gassac
Valley some 35 kilometres outside
Montpellier. In
1970 Aimeé and Veroniqué Guibert, owners of a leather glove factory in Millau,
started searching for a place in the country.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><img align="right" border="2" height="266" hspace="2" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image505.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="2" width="200" />The only property in the Gassac valley, the run-down little <i>mas</i> of the Daumas family, was not for
sale but the frail elderly sisters who occupied it could live there no longer.
With no family they were keen to move to nearby Aniane. Aimeé and Veroniqué fell
in love with and bought the tumble-down farm, helping the Daumas sisters
relocate to the local town. </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">The
precarious self-sufficiency of the farm meant a few old olive trees and vines
were already planted, but Aimeé dreamt of growing vines for winemaking, though
with no great ambition for a <i>vin de
garde</i>.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Following advice from the locals and experts in Montpellier, Aimeé read
the treatise on the origins of wine quality by Professor Enjalbert, the famous
wine geologist. With typical flare, he wrote and persuaded the Professor to
visit the old farm in the summer of 1971. The rest, as they say, is history.
Professor Enjalbert was amazed to identify a unique terrior - a soil of powdered
Mindellian limestone and a balanced microclimate in the valley quite different
from the hot plains just a short distance away.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">The
Guibert family set about planting a vineyard of cabernet sauvignon vines the
following year and in a second master stoke convinced, with not inconsiderable
effort, the Bordelais Professor of Oenology, Emile Peynaud, to advise on
winemaking. The first vintage was 1978, the year of my
birth.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">As
we wound through the hills to Daumas Gassac, we caught an occasional glimpse of
the old farmhouse on top of the low rolling hill. Suddenly, amongst the scrub, a
vineyard appeared. Cut out amongst the natural flora, their vineyards are
carefully placed to blend in with nature, almost to be a part of it. At the edge
of the vineyards, the cut earth still shows the glowing red soil that helps make
this place so special.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Arriving at the winery the smell of the <i>garrigue</i> was all enveloping; herb,
flowers, thyme hang rich in the air. Today there was another smell in the air -
the harvest finished yesterday, now fermentation had started and the air was
full of the aromas of wine must!</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><img align="left" border="1" height="187" hspace="1" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image499.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="1" width="250" />We’re met by Aimeé Guibert himself. As you could imagine from
someone who was so persistent in attracting the greatest wine talents to his
embryonic idea, he has a certain Gallic exuberance about him. He bounces down the stairs with his arms held
out to offer the warmest of welcomes. Eighty three years of age, acting like 43,
and not looking a year older than when I last met him. He has one of those
expressive faces, well lived in, though a sparkle in his eye that makes you
think we would still happily phone up any Professor anywhere for help if he
needed it. Only he doesn’t anymore. This year is his thirtieth vintage at Daumas
Gassac, and time has taught him well.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">He apologised, his eldest son Samuel is late coming
back to join us. He’s on a ‘very important walk in the vineyard and can’t be
disturbed’. When he does arrive, Samuel confesses that yesterday was his wedding
anniversary and he’d taken his wife for a romantic walk through the vineyards
after spending last night celebrating. More than that, he’d even made sure the
vineyard harvest was finished especially so he wouldn’t be disturbed, “to show
her my love” he says with a broad grin. The Gallic charm of Aimeé is even more
fine tuned in black-haired his son.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><img align="right" border="2" height="266" hspace="2" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image532.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="2" width="200" />We wander out into the garden, which merges seamlessly with
their oldest vineyard, Peyra Fioc. Sitting under the trees the temperature is
cool, shaded from a still fierce September heat. Their dog, a local stray,
lollops over to join us, looking for attention. This is not a place of stresses;
this is a place in touch with nature.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Samuel represents the future generation of the family,
but captures all of his fathers passion and enthusiasm. Set him off talking
about a subject and he speaks so strongly, with such feeling, you’re compelled
to listen. I mention how well his father looks, and the obvious quip comes back
fast “it’s the wine!”</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Talking with Samuel about the family’s philosophy is
an animated conversation. More than many, the Guibert’s have adopted a very
holistic attitude: the wine comes from the land, they are simply there to guide
it. But there’s more to it than that. They firmly believe in the culture of
wine. Samuel argues that they have never had their eyes set on the top dollar
and that despite their origins they have never wanted to be garage winemakers.
Certainly their quantity of production would rule that out these days, but they
never want a wine that “is made to talk about but not to taste”.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Their winery is open to everyone, as I experienced all
those years ago visiting as a student. Samuel recalls the early days at wine
fairs, when his mother would welcome a student to the stand just as warmly as
millionaires. This welcome is not just reserved for customers. The pickers,
heading off home to Spain today, will all be back next
year. The Guiberts treat them as part of the family, sharing their food and wine
with them as the harvest work is done. Many are members of the same families and
have been returning to work here for years.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><img align="left" border="2" height="187" hspace="2" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image530.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="2" width="250" />Daumas Gassac wines now sell at a premium in
France, with a significant
auction market throughout Europe for the older
wines. Their red is a true <i>vin de
garde</i>, needing time to develop and express its cedary, leather and garrigue
notes that have made it so famous. For them ‘medium term ageing’ is 15 years,
with a great vintage easily reaching its thirtieth birthday in fine condition.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Yet, given their philosophy of accessibility, the
wines are still offered directly to clients en primeur every year at a tiny
fraction of a good Bordeaux. “We want our wine to be drunk and to
be available” Samuel adds firmly. The recent two years of relative drought
(relative, as the Gassac valley microclimate always ensures some ground water)
means that production of the white wine has been significantly lower. The yields
(about 21 hl/hec in 2007) are fine for making a great wine now, but after
several years of low rainfall next year may be a problem financially. For now,
instead of raising prices they simply cut allocations. In fact, the en primeur
price hasn’t been raised years. </span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Samuel is now on his seventh vintage, having started
winemaking in 2000. It’s a family affair, with himself, his father and brother
running the show together with their cellarmaster. His father is still very much
involved and probably always will be. “He enjoys it too much” jokes Samuel,
though he acknowledges they will have their disagreements. Despite that, he
knows he has much to learn from his father’s experience. </span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><img align="right" border="2" height="266" hspace="2" src="http://www.ouws.org/userfiles/Image508.jpg" style="border-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" vspace="2" width="200" /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">With
the conversation turning back to wine culture Samuel becomes more animated. He
believes that “there is something of the character of the man in a great wine.
You can taste something of the personalities of the people who made it”.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">The family know they have a great terroir but without
the right people to make the most of it, it would be nothing. It’s this link to
the people and the land that the family are keen to promote. “Daumas Gassac is
for people who enjoy the culture of the vine. With millions of bottles of wine
made every year you start to loose sight of the person making it”.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">The proof is in his own cellar, he tells me, where the
majority of wines are those of friends and people he knows and respects. They
are concerned that many wines are becoming a choice between technology or
terroir, that wines are losing their individuality and personality.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">“The winemaker is an artist”, Samuel asserts, pausing
for a second, perhaps fleetingly concerned that his passion is not understood.
“Not Van Gough, but someone who paints a picture with whatever they have”.
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">For the Guibert family, the picture is clearly painted in
every bottle of their famous wine.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Dr J.E.F. Fitzgerald - Copyright 2008</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;"></span> </div>
</span></span>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-88147837691861123192012-07-13T18:27:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:27:45.934+01:00Chardonnay or Chablis? Putting some class in your glass<div class="x90">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;">Chardonnay or Chablis?</span></b></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Putting some class in your glass</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">By Dr Edward Fitzgerald</span></i></div>
<div class="x90">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">You start to fluster. The hairs stand up on the back
of your neck. The wine waiter is leaning over you in the opulent restaurant
whilst your beautiful other-half sits opposite, both awaiting your imminent
choice from the wine list. Only the list could be written in a foreign language,
for all you know. Chardonnay or Chablis, Claret or Haut-Médoc? Was the 2000 a
better vintage or the '98? And what goes with lamb? James Bond would know what
to order. I don't! Help!</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">The past fifteen years have seen a huge
revolution in the wine drinking habits of the English. Once the preserve of the
professional classes, wine consumption has jumped enormously, driving a new
economic boom for wine producing regions around the world. The English are
renowned for having a wider selection of wines available than any other wine
consuming country. Auction houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s keep England at
the centre of the world's fine wine trade. Oxford alone has supplied the
majority of the most recognised and respected wine writers.</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">But do any of us really know anything about it?
Certainly we all like to think we do. But does the average Joe Public picking up
a bottle from the supermarket shelf stop to consider anything more than the
label or price? Should they?</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Wine is a romantic subject; it captures the
senses, relaxes the body and seduces the minds of those who enjoy it. Taking
some time to stop and learn a little about what's in your glass can add to that
enjoyment greatly. And let’s face it; it always looks good at the dinner party
table to have some background knowledge of your host's precious
bottle.</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">What's often overlooked is that wine is also an
academic subject - there is so much to learn about countries, regions, producers
and vineyards. And every year a new vintage shifts the goalposts - some regions
excel, others exsanguinate. But best of all, wine is a practical subject - the
only way to learn is to taste the wines and visit the regions, not a hardship
when most vineyard areas are in some of the world's most dramatic and beautiful
countryside.</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Learning just a little of this goes a long way to
decoding the labels in Oddbins and restaurant wine lists. Before you know it
you'll be talking tannins and tastes. Then you've caught the wine bug! So in
order to speed your way towards this blissful nirvana, here follows ten top tips
to guide you on your vinous travels:</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">1. White wine grapes</span></b></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">After selecting the vineyard, the winemakers’ choice
of grape is the main factor determining the character of a wine. From tannic and
taught to fine and fruity, each different grape variety brings its own tastes
and flavours to your glass. Chardonnay is the one white grape everyone knows
about. From Bridget Jones quaffers to world-class Burgundies, this great grape
produces reliable, soft and buttery wines. The problem is that is really does
grow everywhere, to the extent that serious wine drinkers have formed the ABC
Club - Anything But Chardonnay! Their antidote to this ubiquitous vine is
Sauvignon Blanc, which makes crisp, acidic wines with a lovely aroma that's been
likened to cats pee on a gooseberry bush! But for those that want move beyond
the supermarket there are some wonderful wines to discover made from grapes
you'll never have heard of. Try Viognier, which makes luscious, thick white
wines with a captivating scent of blossom and apricots.</span></div>
<div class="x90">
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">2. Red Wine Grapes</span></b></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Red wines benefit from the tannins crushed out of the
darker grape skin, giving the wines a deeper colour and structure. Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cab Sav, as it is fondly known) is the original stalwart of Bordeaux.
Now grown around the world, King Cab is often thought of as the noblest of the
red grape varieties making dense, tannic, blackcurrant flavoured wines that age
gracefully. Syrah (or shiraz as its called in Australia) makes up for in power
what is might loose to Cab Sav in finesse. Black wines with a smoky, leathery
nose, these pack much more punch on the palate. Pinot Noir is a wine that people
fall in love with. Its light colour belies a perfumed nose of red fruit and
confectionary, or earth and farmyards if it originates from Burgundy! These are
the most famous grape names you'll see on the supermarket shelves, but break
free and try something different. The Carmenère grape, usually from South
America, makes wonderfully concentrated, deep wines full of red fruits and is
very fairly priced.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">3. Vintages</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">There is currently a popular argument in the wine
world that says that there are no longer any bad vintages, just bad winemakers.
Certainly modern wine making technology means that even the worst vintage can
produce something very agreeable. Reputable producers around the world can make
reliable wines with almost whatever the weather throws at them. So ultimately
vintages are not something to get too hung-up about until you're getting really
serious about your wine drinking.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">4. Food and Wine</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">The first rule: there are no rules. Endless books
have been written on this subject, but you should ultimately have the confidence
to drink whatever you like with whatever you what. Finding that right
combination is a wonderful goal to aim for - there is no doubt that when you get
it right the final result tastes far better than the sum of its' constituent
parts. Yet, as Jancis Robinson wrote recently "For every food there is probably
the perfect wine to match, but for most of us life will be too short to find
it!"</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">5. Terroir</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">A French word for which there is no direct English
translation, terroir is a frequently used wine term conveying the concept that a
wine reflects its place of origin. The famous Bordeaux wine maker Bruno Prats
translates terroir to mean: "The coming together of the climate, soil and
landscape that makes every vineyard unique". Great wines reflect this vineyard
terroir on the nose and palate and an experienced taster can taste a great wine
blind and pinpoint the exact vineyard it came from. This sense of place and
sense of identity is what makes wines different from all other beverages. It
also forms the basis for criticism of many of the new mass-produced supermarket
wines that taste the same wherever they hail from - McDonalds wines that many in
the wine trade argue shouldn't be called wine at all. Alcoholic grape juice,
anyone?</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">6. New World versus Old
World</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">"Old world" refers to wines hailing from the European
countries that have been making them since Roman times: Spain, France, Italy,
Germany, Portugal, Austria...even England! "New World" describes wines from
countries that are (historically, at least) newer to wine making, such as
America, Australia, South Africa, Chile, Argentina and New Zealand. Why are
these terms used? They're used to describe a difference in style. Although a
horrifically broad generalisation, many New World wines are made in an early
drinking, fruity style that perhaps doesn't need too much thought to enjoy. Old
World wines (and again, a massive generalisation) can be the work of many
generations choosing the right grapes to grow on the right patch of land. The
style is more reserved, often to accompany the local cuisine and often needing
some age before they are at their best. Of course in reality many Old World
wines are fruity quaffers from new vineyards first planted 5 years ago and many
New World wines are serious, world-class bottles needing 10 years in the cellar.
So why do these terms persist? Marketing. Quality European wines rarely have the
name of the grape on the label, preferring the name of the vineyard, village or
locality. For them a wine should express the terroir, as well as the varietal
character. Many New World winemakers simply say this is an excuse for bad wine.
And as Hugh Johnson recently pointed out, European governments love it as it
means that, say, a Chardonnay from Burgundy never has to go head-to-head with an
Australian Chardonnay, as the wine from Burgundy never mentions the
grape!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">7. Wine Tasting</span></b></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Viewed by many as a ceremony shrouded in mystery akin
to Masonic initiation, wine tasting has much to live down. At the basic level it
has one main difference from wine drinking - thought. With wine drinking you're
knocking a drink back, maybe commenting on whether you like it. With wine
tasting you’re taking apart a wine to analyse it's components - the smell,
taste, acidity, alcohol and tannin. Why bother? Well, suppose you're buying a
bottle to go with a special dinner you're planning. It's worth thinking about
whether the wine has enough body or tannin to accompany that big beefsteak. Or
perhaps you're buying a bottle to keep for a relative’s 21st? Pretty important
to judge whether it will keep that long. And sometimes you really don't
need any reason at all. Just like analysing the structure of a great novel or
the aspects of a beautiful painting, tasting a wine requires much more
appreciation of its facets, something that is often enjoyable just for the pure
pleasure of it.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">8. How Much To Spend?</span></b></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">The most important lesson here: do not assume that
price and rarity have any relation to the quality of the wine in a bottle.
Famous and historic producers can sell alcoholic urine and there'll always be
some fool who'll buy it so they can put Chateau so-and-so on their dinner table.
When deciding what to spend on a bottle it is interesting to consider the fixed
costs involved in setting the price. The tax, duty, glass bottle, label,
shipping and cork all make up a large part of the cost of a sub-£5 wine, not
leaving much for what is actually inside. So the difference between this and a
£10 bottle can be well out of proportion to the extra money you are spending.
Once you've realised this, it's a very slippery slope as you start seeing £15
bottles as good value! However, you then have to be very careful spending more
than £30 on a bottle. As a general rule price doesn't have much influence on
quality above this - it's more likely you're paying for the name on the
label.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">9. Wine Snobs</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Sommeliers (wine waiters) no longer make me cringe.
Wine snobs do. These are the insufferable breed who generally think Bordeaux is
best no matter what, the people who thought Australian wine was just a passing
phase. They ignore what their taste buds tell them and still manage to find
pleasure in horrifically expensive wines that are sold on former glories or for
future auctions. The wine writer Tim Atkin recently suggested the perfect way to
deal with such a condescending 'connoisseur'. Just make sure you ask for a glass
of cola with your wine. Then calmly take your host's finest Cru Classé and make
a little blend of your own with the cola in your wine glass. "Always taste
better with a little fizz" you can politely add, as your host's jaw hits the
floor.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">10. Wine Talk</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">So you've got this far - now how do you convey your
newfound knowledge to impress everyone at formal hall? Keep the following four
phrases on the tip of your tongue: "The terroir really shows", meaning that you
can supposedly taste that the wine came from the particular vineyard area on the
label. "Certainly a food wine", this comment always sounds like a considered
judgement of how the wines body, acidity and tannin would match food. Yet it is
an essentially meaningless phrase that can be rolled out for most wines. "Good
varietal character", this simply means you can recognise the grapes, again
something that can be said for most wines. "Have you tried the 1990?" Next time
your friend pulls out a bottle of something special, wow them with your
extensive tasting experience. It's difficult to go wrong here - 1990 was a
legendary year in the majority of Europe's wine regions.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Enjoy</span></b></div>
<div class="x90">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">If you take nothing else away from this article, then
remember these two final points. Firstly, wine should always be about fun and
enjoyment. It's about sharing a bottle with friends around the dinner table and
enjoying the evening. Wine should never be put on a pedestal for adoration; in
fact it never is in European countries where wine making and drinking is
ingrained in the culture. Secondly, wine is subjective. Everybody has different
tastes, so have faith in your own and drink wine because you like it, not
because a wine writer tells you that you should. Don't be afraid to try new
grapes and different styles. After all, life is just too short for boring
wine!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Dr J.E.F. Fitzgerald - Copyright 2008</span></span></div>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-20409649069293462912012-07-13T18:26:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:35:52.808+01:00Grape Expectations - Could wine really be the best medicine?<div class="h1x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; text-decoration: none;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Grape Expectations</span></b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-size: small;">Could wine really be the best medicine?</span></span></div>
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</div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<div class="h2x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<i><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal;"><i>By Dr Edward
Fitzgerald</i></span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><i>“In vino sanitas” – In wine
there is health. Pliny the Elder (AD 23-70)</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Imagine a day when the British
National Formulary contains a chapter on wine prescriptions. Sounds a little
far-fetched? Or perhaps too good to be true! For over 5,000 years wine has been
one of mankind’s oldest medicines, a fact sometimes overlooked in today’s
high-tech world of medical intervention. Indeed, the strength of the
anti-alcohol lobby together with the damages of excess we witness every week
serves to remind us of its constant harm; rather ironic given that, after
publicans, doctors are by far the most alcoholic profession. Yet recently the
Department of Health increased their recommended maximum weekly alcohol limits.
Why? A burgeoning mountain of evidence now supports the centuries old notion
that sensible alcohol intake actually improves health. In a 1997 BMJ review Sir
Richard Doll recalled prescribing an ounce of whisky in the 1930’s for a patient
with lobar pneumonia. With credible scientific evidence that alcohol
(particularly wine) can ward off a variety of ills, might this day come
again?</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><i>“Drink no longer water, but use
a little wine for thy stomach’s sake and thine often infirmities” 1 Timothy
5:23</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Recipes for wine-based medicines
appear in Egyptian papyri dating back to 2200BC. Better documented is the work
of Hippocrates in ancient Greece, who used wine as a
disinfectant for wounds, for sedation, intestinal disease and as part of a
healthy diet. Wine was regularly added to water in Roman times to improve
hygiene. In medieval Europe, monasteries,
schools, universities and hospitals all recognised the benefits of wine, still
seen in their ownership of vineyards today. More recently the development of the
American “temperance movement” during the 1800 & 1900’s led to a
re-evaluation of alcohol in society and its gradual fall from favour as medical
treatment – except, perhaps, for doctors themselves! </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Thankfully the past 20 years have
seen a snowballing of research into the positive health benefits of wine
consumption. Since the era of prohibition the idea that alcohol is only harmful
has been firmly ingrained in western minds. The late 1970’s saw a turning point
with the publication in the Lancet of an epidemiological study by Selwyn St
Leger <i>et al</i>. This examined a variety of factors associated with deaths
from ischaemic heart disease, and the surprise discovery was a strong negative
association between deaths from ischaemic heart disease and alcohol consumption.
Interest in this area slowly picked up, culminating in the publication of the
now famous “French Paradox” paper in 1992 by Dr. Serge Renaud from the French
Health Research agency, INSERM. This highlighted an infuriating fact: the French
can stuff themselves silly with saturated fatty foods, smoke 10 Gauloises a day
and still have a lower rate of coronary heart disease than other western
countries. Again, the main difference between French data and that for other
countries was the average wine consumption. This story went on to become
international news when the prime-time American NBC televison program “60
Minutes” aired its story of the “French Paradox”. American wine sales went
through the roof overnight. Never let it be said that the American public is
easily persuaded…</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><i>“Wine is the most healthy and
hygienic of beverages” Louis Pasteur (1822-1895)</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Any study to correlate alcohol
consumption and health benefit is extremely difficult. Differentiating between
the drinker and the drink poses many problems. In America wine
drinking correlates with increased income, itself strongly correlated with
increased life expectancy. The wine-rich French diet also contains more fresh
fruit, already shown to have a beneficial effect on health. Control non-drinkers
may be abstaining for reasons of poor health or conversely to maintain a
supposed healthy, fitness-driven lifestyle, both of which can potentially skew
results. The addition of the Copenhagen Study to this debate (Gronbaek <i>et
al</i>, BMJ, 1995) provided further supporting evidence. This attempted to
control many of these variables and followed 13,000 thirty to seventy year-olds
over 10-12 years. Their results showed a relative risk reduction in death from
1.00 for subjects who never drank to 0.51 (95% CI 0.32 to 0.81) for those who
drank three to five glasses of alcohol a day. With the addition of other
epidemiological studies the shear weight of supporting evidence is now
sufficient to persuade the most ardent abstainer that a tipple might just tip
the balance in their favour.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">A pattern has gradually begun to
emerge, revealing a U-shaped mortality curve. The risk of death from all causes
decreases from subjects who never drink to subjects who drink up to three or
four glasses of wine a day, with the risk of death from vascular disease and
stroke in these subjects reduced by up to a third. Beyond three to four glasses
a day the risks begin to rapidly rise again. Further research has shown that
hypertension, kidney stones and peptic ulcer occurrence all follow the same
U-shaped curve with a significant benefit for light drinkers. This has prompted
far more questions than there are answers. Could alcohol once again be a panacea
for our ills? How does it bring about these positive effects? Does it matter
what type of alcohol we drink? </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">The last question has been the
subject of much debate mainly due to vested commercial interests. Sales of wines
have risen greatly since the it’s health benefits were first promoted and wine
makers are all keen to sell their drink as the healthiest. Sir Richard Doll’s
review of literature in this area argues that the characteristics of the drink
do not change the beneficial effects; these are merely due to the content of
ethanol. Studies have shown that ethanol increases levels of HDL cholesterol,
reduces blood viscosity by moderating cytokines involved in blood clotting and
promotes fibrinolysis. However, several papers now reveal even greater health
benefits for wine drinkers. Over recent decades the scientific study of wine,
known as oenology, has become an academic subject in its own right. Chemists
have started to investigate the thousands of natural chemicals squashed out of
grapes to form a glass of wine. Many of these are phenolics, aromatic compounds
from grape skins that give wines their distinctive taste and smell. These are
more concentrated in red wine, giving it bitterness and astringency and acting
as strong antioxidants to give wine its aging potential. It now appears that
wine contains many non-alcoholic compounds such as these that confer its extra
health benefits.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">In 1993 the first evidence came to
light that phenolic antioxidant action may work inside the human body and a
mechanism for the health benefits of wine began to be formed. Frankel <i>et al
</i>showed that that the antioxidants in wine could significantly reduce
oxidation of LDL, slowing the development of arterial plaque. Resveratol,
epicatechin and quercetin, the newly discovered antioxidant chemicals in wine,
are far stronger antioxidants than vitamin E. Attention has focused on the
strongest of these, reveratol, perhaps unwisely so. Whilst one study published
last year in Cardiovascular Research hailed it as a potent cardioprotective
chemical and antiarrhythmic agent, no-one has yet addressed whether it can ever
reach physiologically active concentrations in the blood stream. At only 1-2
mg/L, the amount of wine that may have to be consumed to see positive effects
could well be harmful in other ways. The body’s absorption of these chemicals is
far from understood. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Meanwhile, a vast number of other
papers have been published proclaiming the benefits of moderate wine
consumption. The vasodilator and antithrombic effects are now thought to be due
to quercitin and other potent nitric oxide donors. Animal models show that
inhibition of platelet aggregation can be achieved with much lower blood alcohol
concentration in dogs receiving red wine than pure alcohol. The historical
benefits of wine on digestion and as an antimicrobial were given a scientific
basis by Weisse <i>et al</i> in the BMJ, who showed that red table wine could
reduce the number of viable salmonella, shigella and Escherishia coli organisms
in suspensions by 10<sup>5 </sup>– 10<sup>6</sup> colony forming units. Finally,
a dash of current controversy. The common premise assumes that alcohol is
associated with a decrease in bone density. Laboratory based work has shown that
alcohol has a damaging effect on bone forming mechanisms. However, population
based studies have begun to show otherwise. The Framingham Study suggested that
an alcohol intake of two or three daily glasses of wine is actually related to
an increased bone density in post-menopausal women. The Rotterdam Study in 1998,
whilst not showing a positive benefit to wine consumption, did show that chronic
alcohol intake was not adversely related to the rate of bone loss for any
category of alcohol intake. Clearly an area for further study.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">So the message from research is that
light drinkers actually enjoy better health than abstainers. Of course, the
beneficial effects cannot be applied across the board – they are dependent on
each individual’s risk of developing CHD, vascular disease, etc. in relation to
the causes of death aggravated by alcohol. Many of the positive effects of
drinking only protect against diseases of the middle-aged or elderly. It must
therefore be highlighted that regular alcohol intake during our younger years
may actually cause harm before the age where beneficial effects begin. So while
our consultants sit back and enjoy a fine 1989 Cornas, medical students may be
better off with a 2001 Cola. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><i>“There are more old wine
drinkers than old doctors” An old German proverb.</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">This article makes no attempt to
cover up the huge harm alcohol abuse can cause – from liver damage to brain
damage, accidents to assaults - the toxic effects of ethanol would render it a
controlled substance had it recently been discovered. Many a medical student can
testify to the deep psychological trauma alcohol can cause the morning after an
Osler House bop when they realise beauty is very much in the eye of the
beer-holder. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Seriously, it is well known that the
proportion of alcohol abusers is a function of the number of drinkers in society
as a whole. The positive health message regarding alcohol must therefore be
conveyed with care, as the important point that only <i>moderate</i> consumption
brings health benefits can easily be overlooked. Put simply, this article hopes
to promote a favourable view of moderate wine consumption and the health
benefits it confers. At the end of a hard day, uncorking a nice bottle of wine
is in itself relaxing – good food and company adds to the enjoyment. Regardless
of biochemical evidence and physiological proof this must surely be good for
your health. In the words of Alexander Flemming: “Penicillin can cure the ill,
but only wine will make them happy”.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: normal;">Acknowledgments</span></b></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">My thanks to Oxford University Wine
Society (<a class="x90" href="http://users.ox.ac.uk/%7Ebacchus/index.shtml" target="_blank">www.oxforduniversitywinesociety.com</a>) for the loan of materials
referenced in this article and the provision of copious wine to aid its
flow.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<h3 style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span> </h3>
<h3 style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">References</span></h3>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">1.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">St Leger AS, Cochrane AL, Moore F. Factors associated
with cardiac mortality in developed countries with particular reference to the
consumption of wine. Lancet 1979 12;1:1017-20
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">2.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Renaud S, de Lorgeril
M. Wine, alcohol, platelets and the French paradox for coronary heart disease.
Lancet 1992 20;339:1523-6.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">3.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Waterhouse AL. Wine and
heart disease. Chemistry & Industry 1995
May;338-341.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">4.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Gronbaek, M et al.
Mortality associated with moderate intake of wine, beer or spirits. BMJ
1995;310:1165-1169. </span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">5.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Doll R. One for the
heart. BMJ 1997;315:1664-1668.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">6.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">de Lorimier, AA.
Alcohol, wine and health. American Journal of Surgery 2000;
180:357-361.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">7.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Hung LM, Chen JK, Huang
SS, Lee RS, Su MJ. Cardioprotective effect of resveratrol, a natural antioxidant
derived from grapes. Cardiovascular Research 2000;
47:549-555.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">8.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Frankel EN, Kanner J,
German JB, Parks E, Kinsella JE. Inhibition of human low-density lipoprotein by
phenolic substances in red wine. Lancet
1993;341:454-7.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">9.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Demrow HS et al.
Administration of wine and grape juice inhibits in vivo platelet activity and
thrombosis in stenosed canine arteries. Circulation
1995;91:182-8.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">10.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Gronbaek M et al.
Population based cohort study of the association between alcohol intake and
cancer of the upper digestive tract. BMJ
1998;317:844-8.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">11.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Weisse ME, Eberly B,
Person DA. Wine as a digestive aid: comparative effects of bismuth salicylate
and red and white wine. BMJ
1995;311:1657-1660.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">12.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial;">Felson DT et al.
Alcohol intake and bone mineral density in elderly men and women. The Framingham study. Am J
Epidemiol. 1995;142:485-92.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">This paper was previously
published in Oxford Medical Gazette volume 52(2). <span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Garamond; font-size: 9.5pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0mm 0mm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Garamond; font-size: 9.5pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Dr JEF Fitzgerald - Copyright 2008 <span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Garamond; font-size: 9.5pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">(ISSN:
0030-7661)</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span> </div>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-64121315197196057922012-07-13T18:25:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:25:39.236+01:00Beginner’s Guide to White Wine Grapes<div class="x90">
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Beginner’s Guide to White Wine
Grapes</span></strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Introduction</strong><br />After the
vineyard site has been chosen, the starting point for any wine is the grape
variety selected by the winemaker. This alone is the most important factor
determining the character of the liquid swilling around in our glasses. To the
complete beginner the familiar names of Chardonnay or Shiraz may represent the
first tentative steps into the world of wine - but do you know what tastes and
aromas to expect from the bottle? Discovering your personal wine tastes and the
art of matching food & wine all depend on a basic knowledge of grape
varieties. A little background reading in this area should be the starting point
for all newcomers to wine, and will soon reap its rewards…</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Varieties of vine</strong>There are
20 or so different varieties of vine within the genus Vitis, but only one, Vitis
vinifera, is capable of producing decent wine with any regularity. Vitis
lambrusca is a wilder variety that is grown in some parts of the Eastern USA but
invariably produces disappointing wine. Vitis rupestris is a parent of many
commercially important rootstocks due to its resistance to Phylloxera – the
troublesome little bug that infests the roots of vines and decimated the French
vineyards in the 1860s and Australian vineyards in the 1880s.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">There are about 5000 varieties of Vitis vinifera. We
are not going to describe them all – partly because we’re lazy but mainly
because only 60 or so of these varieties will produce wines with a recognisable
and enjoyable flavour. Of all of the factors that can influence the character of
a wine – such as soil type, viticulture, microclimate and time of grape picking
– the most easily detected is the variety of grape. This guide aims to introduce
you to some of the commoner grapes you are likely to encounter.</span></div>
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Common White Grape
Varieties</span></strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Chardonnay</strong><br />This ubiquitous,
fashionable white grape is now found growing in almost every wine producing
country. However, this popularity can make it hard to define due to the myriad
variations in soil type, climate, clone and viticulture that influence the final
wines. Chardonnay is particularly user-friendly to the winemaker, growing almost
anywhere and able to be moulded into various styles ranging from classy
long-lived white Burgundy, to Champagne, to rich buttery Aussie whites. The
flavours associated with Chardonnay depend upon the winemaking. While there is
an enormous amount of non-descript peachy, oaky dry white made from the grape,
better examples taste of lemon, green apples and grapefruit in unoaked and
lightly oaked styles, through to melon, white peach and cashew nuts in
medium-bodied wines, and on to rich butter and toast in the barrel-fermented or
barrel-aged wines. Chardonnay may also be put through malolactic fermentation -
when harsh malic acid (think green apples) is converted to lactic acid - thus
giving the wine a more creamy finish. While many Chardonnay aficionados look to
Burgundy for their tipple, there are a number of producers in other countries
that arguably make wines of similar complexity at more reasonable prices. South
African stars include Vergelegen, Rustenberg, De Wetshof, Hamilton Russel, and
Bouchard Finlayson, while great Aussie wines are made by Leeuwin Estate,
Petaluma and Coldstream Hills, among numerous others.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Colombard</strong><br />Widely grown in
California and South Africa (where it is also known as Colombar), the origins of
this grape stem from its’ distillation for the famous brandies of Cognac and
Armagnac in France. Its susceptibility to rot in France’s moderate climate led
to the decline in plantings for still wine production. However, the hot climates
of California and South Africa have welcomed the grape, where it produces plain,
crisp, dry whites. These are often blended with Chenin Blanc or
Chardonnay.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Chenin Blanc</strong><br />Chenin blanc
is one of the mainstays of the Loire Valley in France, and is the most widely
planted variety in South Africa (where it is occasionally called Steen), with a
few wines hailing from California, Australia, and New Zealand. When made well,
Chenin Blanc wines can taste superb, but often they are unripe, flabby, or
over-sulphured. The grape has a naturally high acidity and thus lots of sun is
required to bring out the fruit flavours. Chenin Blanc is very versatile and can
be used to produce sparkling wines or dry, demi-sec and sweet still wines. The
latter wines from Vouvray, Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, Jasnières and Coteaux
du Layon in France’s Loire Valley, can have incredible sublime flavours of
beeswax, marzipan, honey, pralines and spice with a tremendous capacity to age.
South Africa also occasionally makes great long-lived sweet wines. In the New
World Chenin is often used to bulk up blended white wines, as it is often fairly
neutral, fruity stuff.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Gewürztraminer</strong><br />One of the
most easily recognised grapes, both on the vine and in the glass. The grapes are
characteristically pink while the wines have an unmistakable aroma of flowers
and spice (in German Gewürz means spice), flavours of lychees, rosewater,
ginger, and cinnamon, and an oily mouthfeel. Good Gewürztraminer is so obvious
that people either love it or hate it. Unfortunately, most Gewürz is drunk as a
sweet blend with Riesling and, while this is a fabulously easy-drinking style,
it does not let the true nature of the grape shine through. The best examples,
from Alsace and Germany’s Pfalz region, are dry wines that combine the amazing
perfume with a complex spicy palate, and make perfect partners to Asian food. To
experience truly outstanding Gewürztraminer wines, try a late harvested
(vendange tardive) or botrytised example (sélection des grains nobles) from
Alsace, both of which are unctuously sweet. Outside these regions,
Gewürztraminer is also grown widely in Italy and Austria, with New World
plantings in California, Chile and New Zealand.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Grenache Blanc</strong>The white
grape sister of the red-skinned Grenache Noir. While originally a Spanish
variety (where it still play a role in north-eastern whites from Rioja, Navarre,
etc.) this grape is now most widely planted in France’s Rhône Valley (especially
as the most important grape in white Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and
Languedoc-Roussillon. Frequently blended with other southern French varietals
such as Marsanne and Viognier, the grape can produce good quality, fat, richly
flavoured wines.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Marsanne</strong><br />Not one of the
most widely-seen varieties, but justifies inclusion due to its importance as a
key grape in the white wines of the Rhône Valley. It has a floral, herby, limey
flavour and is quite aromatic (again floral). In the Rhône, Marsanne is usually
blended with a host of other white grapes, as in the long-lived Hermitage wines,
or may even be blended with Syrah to give red wines a floral lift. Marsanne may
also be encountered as a varietal, especially from Aussie producers in the
Goulbourn Valley (Chateau Tahbilk or Mitchelton), and in this guise it can age
well to produce wines with intense honeysuckle aromas.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Muscat</strong><br />The dead-giveaway
for wine made from grapes of the Muscat family is that they actually smell of
grapes. In those areas where Muscat is made into dry table wines - northeast
Italy, Southern France, and Alsace - flavours and aromas of grapes, apples and
mandarins may be encountered. Muscat grapes are also used to produce fizzy
styles of wine, as in Asti, Moscato d’Asti and Clairette de Vie. However, to my
mind, the most exciting Muscats are the sweet ones. There are two styles of
sweet Muscat - the unfortified, as in Moscatel de Valencia (Spain), and the many
fortified wines of Australia, the Rhône (notably Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise)
and Southern France. The Australian examples in particular can taste strongly of
raisins and Demerara sugar, while French vins doux naturels may have more barley
sugar and orange character.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Pinot Blanc</strong><br />Pinot Blanc
could perhaps be likened to a light, unoaked Chardonnay, without the upfront
fruit. If over-cropped it can produce very neutral, acid wines – a perfect base
for sparkling wines such as Crémant D’Alsace. However, good examples of still
Pinot Blanc wines from Alsace or Italy (where it is known as Pinot Bianco) are
attractively creamy, often with a nutty flavour. Germany also produces some
Pinot Blanc, known as Weissburgunder, but the majority of Californian Pinot
Blanc is actually Muscadet.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Pinot Gris</strong>This grape is
also known as Tokay Pinot Gris, but bears no relation to the Tokay found
elsewhere in the world (Hungarian Tokaji being made from a variety of grapes,
while Australian Tokay is Muscadelle). In Italy, Pinot Gris (called Pinot
Grigio) is used to made light-bodied, fairly neutral wines that are good
partners for seafood. Alsace vignerons make an entirely different beast of a
wine - most is dry, full-bodied, aromatic, spicy stuff, while some is beautiful,
sweet late harvested (vendange tardive) or botrytised (sélection des grains
nobles) with a characteristic smoky smell. A number of wineries in Oregon,
Australia and New Zealand are experimenting with this variety.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Riesling</strong><br />Without doubt the
king of white grapes, and one that best reflects terroir (the special vineyard
combination of soil, climate, aspect etc. that gives a wine its’ particular
character). Yet despite this it remains surprisingly unpopular on the world
market. The grape has a high acidity and is best without the influence of oak.
It can be grown in a wide variety of climatic conditions and is susceptible to
infection by Botrytis, thus leading to a huge variety of different styles. The
best examples hail from Germany, usually from the slate soils of the Mosel and
Rhine. These typically have a low alcohol (~8%) and very fresh taste of crunchy
green apples, lime, flint, and floral notes. The advanced honeyed fruit flavour
(and occasional petrol nose - not a fault!) of mature German Riesling is
deliciously memorable. New World examples from hot climates have noticeably
higher alcohol levels and much bolder fruit flavours of lime and passion fruit,
though easily become too fat. Australian examples often develop a very strong
kerosene nose after a few years in bottle - a trait not to everyone’s liking.
Irrespective of its origin, all Riesling should have a racy balanced acidity,
which confers good quality wines with substantial capacity to
age.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><b>Sauvignon Blanc</b><br />If you like really fresh and clean
wine then you’ll love Sauvignon Blanc – the perfect antidote to fat, over-oaked
Chardonnay. The best Sauvignon Blanc is produced in cool areas, where the grapes
retain enough acidity to make great crisp, zingy whites. The two main
strongholds are the Loire Valley in France, and New Zealand (Hawkes Bay and
further north in the North Island and Wellington regions in the South Island).
Wines from North Island New Zealand tend to be richer, with more passionfruit
and gooseberry character whereas those from the South Island, particularly
Marlborough, are often ‘greener’, with blackcurrant leaf aromas and flavours of
green pepper and cut grass. The Loire wines, such as those of Sancerre and
Tourraine, are typically more subdued, displaying flavours of nettles and
asparagus, and often smelling quite strongly of cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush
(a classic description - just try to imagine it!) South Africa and Chile also
make some nice wines. While most Sauvignon Blanc is drunk as an unoaked
varietal, it may also be encountered as an oaked varietal or as a blend. The
oaked wines, such as Cloudy Bay’s Te Koko are slightly softer, with a smoky edge
and creaminess. Sauvignon Blanc is often blended with Sémillon and has become a
regional speciality for Margaret River in Western Australia. The grape may also
be blended with a range of other varieties, such as Chardonnay and Viognier, in
Southern France.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Sémillon</strong><br />There are two main
homes for this variety. In Bordeaux it is used both for dry wines (often blended
with Sauvignon Blanc) and sweet botrytised Sauternes (blended with Sauvignon
Blanc and Muscadelle). Secondly, in Australia, where it is also used for dry
wines, both oaked (Barossa Valley) and unoaked (Hunter Valley), and for amazing
botrytised styles from Riverina. The thin skin of this grape makes it
particularly susceptible to Botrytis cinerea infection, making it the perfect
starting point for some of the world’s finest dessert wines. Good sweet Bordeaux
and Aussie Sémillons are bursting with flavours of candied peel, but many suffer
from being over-sulphured. The hallmark flavours of dry Sémillon are lemon,
beeswax and honey. The unoaked Australian wines of the Hunter Valley are
especially noteworthy, which, although taking between 10 and 20 years to
develop, can show incredibly complex flavours of toast, lanolin and honey -
almost tasting oaked.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Viognier</strong><br />Pronounced
vee-yon-ee-ay, this grape is an absolute stunner. Originally hailing from the
tiny Northern Rhône appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet, Viognier
produces rich, memorable wines bursting with musky peach blossom aromas and a
palate of apricots and spice. The vine is a poor yielder and difficult to grow.
This, coupled with demand for wines from these two appellations, makes for rare
and expensive wines. Luckily Viognier is rapidly becoming fashionable and is now
grown in a whole host of countries such as Australia, California, Chile and
South Africa. Unfortunately, a lot of these wines are pretty plain. To be
guaranteed a decent, affordable example, try Fairview from South Africa, Yalumba
from Australia, Chile’s Cono Sur, or Fetzer from California.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">© James Warbrick-Smith & Edward
Fitzgerald</span></div>
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<br /></div>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-31232804541674880142012-07-13T18:24:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:24:53.418+01:00Beginner’s Guide to Red Wine Grapes<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Beginner’s Guide to Red Wine
Grapes</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">Common Red Grape
Varieties</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Barbera</b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is natively a
Piemontese grape from the north-west of Italy, but is now just about the most
prolific variety across the country. It has gorgeously round, plummy fruit but
also shows a high level of natural acidity that has no doubt helped its
popularity in warmer climates. Over-production on the vine encourages acidity,
but top wineries with low yields are producing beautiful, balanced wines. Great
examples of Barbera are now also coming from South America and certain Aussie
producers, notably Brown Brothers. Barbera also blends nicely with Cabernet
Sauvignon or Sangiovese.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Cabernet Franc</b><br />Most will
have drunk Cabernet Franc without even realising it, as one of the five
varieties legally allowed in Bordeaux reds (the others being Cabernet
Sauvignon,Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot). Cabernet Franc suffers from an image
problem in comparison to its cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon , which is a crying
shame as it is capable of producing very attractive wines. Typically having
lighter colour and less dominant tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
produces fragrant, slightly green wines with more than a hint of blackcurrant
leaves. To taste pure Cabernet Franc at its best, head for the wine of
Bourgueil, St-Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Chinon and Saumur in France’s Loire Valley.
These light wines have great berry flavours and are lovely served slightly
chilled. The grape is rarely seen in New World varietal wines but often makes an
appearance with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot in areas such as California or
Australia’s Margaret River.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Cabernet Sauvignon</b><br />This
grape is planted just about everywhere that wines can be made (with the
exception of really cool areas that don’t provide this late-ripening variety
with enough sun and warmth to ripen sufficiently). Cabernet Sauvignon (Cab Sav)
grapes have relatively thick skins, which impart a deep colour and flavour to
wines and give them a strong tannic backbone that can bend gracefully with age.
The best examples have a distinct blackcurrant flavour, with hints of cedar
wood, pencil shavings, cigar boxes, and violets. If grown in marginal, cool,
areas the wines can have a hint of leafiness or green peppers. Cabernet
Sauvignon seems to have a natural affinity for French oak, which brings out the
fruit and spice nuances of the grapes, although certain Australian Cab Savs,
notably those from the Barossa and Coonawarra may be aged in American oak, which
gives them luscious vanillin smoothness. Bordeaux is undeniably the home of
Cabernet Sauvignon, where it is it blended with other grapes to a greater or
lesser degree (the wines of Pauillac are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon). Other
fine examples are available from Spain (Navarra), Bulgaria (Suhindol),
California, South Africa, and Australia, where Margaret River is challenging
Coonawarra for the title of best Cabernet Sauvignon region. Although Cabernet
Sauvignon is often drunk as a pure varietal, some examples are somewhat ‘hollow’
in the middle palate and for this reason it is often blended with Shiraz or
Merlot, both of which help to give add more character and
complexity.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Dolcetto</b><br />This is another
Italian native of Piedmont but, unlike Barbera and Nebbiolo, both of which
benefit from bottle aging, Dolcetto has light tannins and is meant to be drunk
within a few years of vintage. An early ripening, low-acid red, it produces
vibrantly soft and fruity wines with liquorice, bitter almond and black cherry
flavours. As with many other Italian varieties, a number of Aussie producers are
starting to have considerable success with this grape.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Gamay</b><br />Gamay will never make
a massive tannic beast of a wine but produces deliciously vibrant, pear-drop
scented, light reds. Gamay is the sole red grape of Beaujolais in South
Burgundy. Here the grapes undergo carbonic maceration (fermentation takes place
in whole bunches of grapes, under a carbon dioxide seal and in the absence of
yeast) to produce wines with very little tannin and smooth fruit flavours of
berries and even bananas that are best-drunk young. For better wines head for
the 38 communes grouped under the Beaujolais Villages appellation or step even
further up the ladder for one of the 10 Beaujolais crus (Brouilly, Chénas,
Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié
and St Amour). Other good Gamay wines are produced in California, South Africa
and Australia.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Grenache</b><br />Perhaps
surprisingly, this is the world’s second most widely planted grape variety,
growing across huge areas of southern France, Spain (where it is called
Garnacha) and Australia. This is a very high-yielding variety, and if
over-cropped, can produce thin wines with little character. However, if
subjected to fairly heavy pruning and even bunch-thinning the vines produce
fruit that makes dense, peppery, earthy wines. In Rioja, Garnacha is blended
with the more austere Tempranillo, and in nearby Navarra it is by the far the
dominant grape variety and is used to make much lighter styles. In France,
Grenache appears in two guises – in age-worthy vin doux naturels such as Banyuls
and Rivesaltes, and in the spicy wines of the southern Rhône and Midi. In the
Rhône valley, Grenache is used, either as a varietal or blended, to produce reds
such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueras and also rosés in Lirac and
Tavel. Due to its affinity for warm climates, Grenache is often grown in the New
World but is typically over-cropped and under-rated. Only recently have a
handful of Australian vignerons paid due attention to their gnarled old Grenache
vines and are making some great wins such as Charles Melton’s NinePopes and Rose
Of Virginia. Grenache tends to produce wines with high alcohol
content.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Malbec</b><br />Malbec is officially
one of the five Bordeaux red grape varieties but is playing an increasingly
smaller part in the blends. This is largely because it is prone to poor fruit
set and is susceptible to rot, frost and downy mildew (the same difficulties are
encountered when growing Merlot). It is, however, also widely planted in
Argentina, the Loire (where it’s known as Côt), Cahors (known as Auxerrois) and
Australia. The wines have a spicy, earthy, almost rustic quality, and can be
particularly dark in colour.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Merlot</b><br />Merlot, when grown
under decent conditions, has an inherent plummy, silky suppleness that can make
great varietals or else is blended, typically with Cabernet Sauvignon, to
produce less aggressively tannic wines that are more approachable when young.
However, as with Malbec, Merlot is very sensitive to growing conditions (and as
such it seems crazy that so much Merlot is being planted on unsuitable land in
California’s Central Valley). Merlot dominates Bordeaux blends in all
appellations except the particularly well drained soils of the Médoc and Graves,
and is especially prominent in the silky wines of Pomerol and St-Émilion. There
are huge amounts of Merlot planted in northern Italy, where is produces thin,
vaguely fruity wines. The variety is also important to Italian vignerons in
Switzerland but quality is highly variable. Other notable growing regions
include Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria and Moldova. Outside of these traditional
strongholds winemakers have been slow to utilise Merlot, particularly in warmer
Mediterranean areas where the lack of acidity in the grapes can tend to produce
flabby wines. That said, Merlot produces some lovely plummy wines in Chile and
is starting to look interesting in New Zealand.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Nebbiolo</b><br />Also known as
Spanna, Inferno and Grumello. This small, thick-skinned Piemontese grape from
northwest Italy produces the famously individual, tannic, acidic and brutish
wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Notably late ripening, this is often left on the
vine well into October. These wines are almost undrinkable when young but after
4 years in bottle they mature into perfumed (roses, bitumen, roasting meat),
complex, full-bodied and expensive reds (Barolo is the ‘larger’ of the two
wines). There are experimental plantings in the New World regions, though for
now Nebbiolo remains an Italian classic.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Pinot Noir</b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir are the two grapes of Burgundy, but whereas Chardonnay is kind to
both producers and drinkers, Pinot Noir can be a nightmare to cultivate –
growing well on one hill but failing miserably on the next. In Burgundy the main
problem tends to be a lack of sufficient warmth, resulting in thin wines with
little tannin to help them age gracefully. The opposite problem can afflict New
World producers – excessive heat can lead to jammy, characterless wines.
However, if you find a good bottle of Pinot Noir it can entirely seduce you with
its velvety, berry-fruit flavours and farmyard/undergrowth/game undertones!
Burgundy produces some beautiful wines but you will have to pay dearly for the
quality. Elsewhere in France, head for the Loire (Sancerre rouge or rosé) or
Alsace. Italy makes a few good examples, otherwise try Australia (Mornington
Peninsula, Gippsland, Yarra Valley – best are Bass Philip and Mount Mary), New
Zealand (Martinborough), Oregon and Chile. Pinot Noir also makes an appearance
in Champagne, where it is often used to add length and body to the blend of
Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Sangiovese</b><br />As Italy’s most
common grape, this is responsible for many of the wines of Tuscany (particularly
Chianti), Brunello di Montalcino, Emilia-Romagna and a host of popular Vino da
Tavola wines. Sangiovese can produce lightly fragrant wines with a distinct
bitter cherry taste, tight tannins (best enjoyed with food) and the capacity to
age. Blending often softens its austerity. Varietal Californian examples are a
bit disappointing but Australia is doing well, particularly in warm areas such
as McLaren Vale (where it is sometimes blended with a little Cabernet
Sauvignon).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Syrah</b><br />There are two main
strongholds for this stunning grape: The Rhône Valley, where it is known as
Syrah, and Australia, as Shiraz. In both areas Syrah is famous for producing big
spicy blockbusters, exemplified in the Rhône by Hermitage and Côte Rôtie
(sometimes blended with up to 20% Viognier (a white grape) to give a hedonistic
perfumed nose of orange peel, cinnamon and plums). These wines tend to have an
intense, almost inky black colour, and are capable of considerable aging. It was
fortunate that one of the founding fathers of the Australian wine industry,
James Busby, visited the Rhône in the early 1800’s as Shiraz loves the warm
Australian climate and is now the country’s most planted variety (though
Chardonnay produces a higher volume of wine). Some table wine was made with the
early Shiraz plantings although the majority was used to produce fortified wines
such as port. When Australia’s fortified wine exports declined in the 1950’s and
1960’s there was such a glut of Shiraz grapes that many old vines were torn from
the ground and grapes were even made into muffins! Then people started to
clamber over the handful of Shiraz wines that had been produced during the
difficult periods and a new style was born. The really big Australian Shiraz
wines hail from Barossa Valley, Eden Valley, McLaren Vale, and Clare Valley,
with slightly more elegant wines coming from Coonawarra, Margaret River, the
Grampians, Bendigo and Langhorne Creek (among others). Shiraz can produce far
more than spicy fruit-bombs - it also produces some leaner reds with
white-pepper characters in cooler areas and is also used to make superb
sparkling reds that are great partners for chocolate, fruit desserts or duck.
Shiraz has a great affiliation with American oak, giving the wines an unctuous
vanilla richness and full mouthfeel. French oak can also be used and this tends
to let the fruit shine through, exaggerating the spice notes. South Africa
produces a few good Shiraz wines, as does California, but neither of these areas
have been able to produce wines that have the concentration or character of the
Australian wines. New Zealand is starting to produce some very interesting
examples.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Tempranillo</b><br />Grown
throughout Spain under various pseudonyms (Cencibel, Tinta de Toro), this grape
forms the backbone of famous Iberian wines such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero.
Its ability to thrive in the most unfavourable climates has led to Tempranillo
now being cultivated in nearly all major red wine producing regions. A versatile
grape, Tempranillo can produce light, early drinking wines right through to
full-bodied, ageworthy styles. Its thick skin is largely responsible for the
latter, giving deep coloured, tannic wines with tobacco, spice and strawberry
flavours. It is most often found in blends with juicier varieties (commonly
Grenache) and takes well to oak giving the smooth vanilla notes commonly found
in the wines of Rioja.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Zinfandel</b><br />The origins of
American Zinfandel are unclear, though DNA testing has shown it to be related to
Italy’s Primitivo variety from the southern region of Puglia. It has now become
California’s very own grape variety, producing port-style fortified wines, sweet
‘blush’ rosés (produced by blending with white Muscat) and big ‘Zins’ red-berry,
blueberryfruited reds. Many everyday wines hail from Central Valley, with the
finest bottles being produced in Sonoma. Since the 1980’s there has been a
considerable improvement in the quality of red Zinfandels and many are capable
of medium term cellaring. Cape Mentelle, in Australia’s Margaret River region,
produces a dark, rich, fruitcake Zinfandel and fledgling plantations are
appearing in South Africa and South America.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;">© James Warbrick-Smith & Edward
Fitzgerald</span>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-22925474101541872812012-07-13T18:18:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:23:15.435+01:00Côtes de Provence Wines: A Brief Guide<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Côtes de Provence Wines: A Brief
Guide</b></span></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial;">By Dr Edward Fitzgerald</span></span></i></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></u></b></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Historically specialising in generous rosé wines, this beautiful and
expansive region is slowly turning its hand to producing some great <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">vin de gard</i> reds and refreshing, high
quality whites. </span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Although
the region is blessed with a long viticultural history, it is only in the past
two or three decades that rosé, both a commercial blessing and a curse in
Provence, has
been regularly surpassed by other wines, spurred on by outside
investment.</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">The
vineyards in Provence run from west to east over around 200
km, from the Alpilles as far as the Estérel range. This vast and diverse wine growing
region </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">spans 3
departemental areas: the Var, the Bouches-du-Rhône and a small portion of the
Alpes Maritimes.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">The wine
region consists of five main zones in which three ‘terroirs’ have been
identified and allowed to append their own locality name to the “Côtes de
Provence” title:</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
</div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>Côtes de Provence Fréjus</b></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 72pt; mso-list: l2 level2 lfo3; tab-stops: list 72.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">Exposed to a maritime influence</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">Rainfall is among the highest of the appellation</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;"> </span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">S</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">unny
days is average for the zone (2800-2900 hours per year</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">Three
specific types of soils</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">:
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
</div>
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●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>Côtes de Provence La Londe</b></span></div>
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</div>
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●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>Côtes de Provence
Sainte-Victoire</b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">The
climate has a slight continental influence</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 72pt; mso-list: l2 level2 lfo3; tab-stops: list 72.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">poor
and shallow soils, made of limestone and clayey sandstone</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Overall,
the five main zones are as follows:</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
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</div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>La Bordure Maritime</b> (Mediterranean coast)
</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Côtes de
Provence Fréjus AOC</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: 11pt;">o<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Côtes de
Provence La Londe AOC</span></i></div>
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</div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>La Vallée Intérieure</b> (the inland
valley)</span></div>
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</div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>Les Collines Calcaires du Haut Pays</b> (chalky inland
hills)</span></div>
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</div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>Le Bassin du Beausset</b> (the chalky Beausset
basin)</span></div>
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</div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
●<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><b>La Montagne Sainte Victoire</b> (the Sainte-Victoire
mountain)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="font-size: small;">o</span><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire AOC</span><span lang="EN-GB"></span></i></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">The
recognition of INAO recognised sub-zones will likely continues beyond
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Fréjus, La Londe and Sainte-Victoire in the years ahead, driven by a
very pro-active local Maison des Vins (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de
Provence).<span class="apple-style-span"></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Brief
History of Provencal Wines</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Wine
production is widely cited to have begun some 2,600 years ago when the
Phoenicians founded Marseille. Certainly by the time of Roman occupation in the
second century BC, wine production was well established.
</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Similar
to other regions of France,
after the fall of the Roman empire wine
production did not thrive again until the middle ages with the foundation of
monastic orders. In the case of Provence,
</span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">the abbeys of Saint-Victor in Marseille, Saint-Honorat on the Lérins
islands off the coast of Cannes, Saint-Pons in Nice and Thoronet
produced wine that spread the reputation of Provencal
wine.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Phylloxera vastatrix arrived in Provence in 1880 and decimated wine
production. The loss was far greater than the initial vineyard demise, as
growers re-grafted lesser but more productive grape varieties, to the detriment
of the regions wines for many decades after.</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span> </div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br />
<span class="apple-style-span"><b><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Provence
Geology</span></b></span></div>
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</div>
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●<span class="apple-style-span"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"> Key
point: variable over such a large area</span></i></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">In
western and northern areas vineyards consist of alternating hills and limestone
ranges eaten away by erosion.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">In the
east, facing the sea, are the crystalline ranges of the Maures and the
Tanneron</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Vegetable
formations typical of the Mediterranean
correspond to the two limestone and crystalline geological structures:
'garrigue' on limestone soil and 'maquis' where it is more
crystalline.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">The soil
is generally shallow and poor – good for vines!</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Provence
Weather</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Annual
sunshine totalling between 2,700 and 2,900 hours</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo5; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">R<span style="color: #1a171b;">ainfall can be violent in Provence in autumn and in
spring</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Summers
are dry and hot</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo5; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Mistral
dry wind protects vines from diseases associated with
humidity</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Key Facts
and Figures</span></u></b></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: DIN-Light;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Côtes de Provence
AOC</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">AOC awarded 1977 (VDQS
1951)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">23 estates awarded cru
class<span style="color: #1a171b;">é</span> in 1955 (the only INAO recognised cru
class<span style="color: #1a171b;">é outside of Bordeaux)</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Surface area: 49,400
acres (20,500 hectares)</span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Production: 130 million
bottles (900,000 hl) Including 87% rosé, 10% red and 3%
white</span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Producers:</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">380 private cellars, 38
co-operative wine cellars, 72 wine merchants</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Maximum authorized yield:
55hl/hectare (50hl/ha for “dénomination de terroir”)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Average yield: 47 hl/hectare<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #1a171b;"></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">AOC
awarded </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;">5
October 2005</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10.5pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Recommended Producers</span></u></b></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Hugh
Johnson’s recommended producers:</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Castel
Roubine</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Commanderie de Peyrassol *</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Domiaine
Bernarde</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Domaine
de la Courtade</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Léoube</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Gavoty</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Château
de Selle (Domaine Ott owned and managed) *</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Clos
Mireille (also Domaine Ott owned and managed)</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Des
Planes</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Rabiéga
*</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Richeaume
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 18.0pt; text-indent: -18pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11pt;">·<span style="font: 7pt 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Rimauresq
*</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">* Starred
wines are those I have personal experience of and vouch for their quality,
particularly those from Domaine Ott’s Château de Selle and
Rimauresq.</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Further
Information</span></u></b></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Vins de
Provence comprehensive website:</span></b></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><a class="x90" href="http://www.vinsdeprovence.com/"><span style="color: #1a171b; text-decoration: none;">http://www.vinsdeprovence.com/</span></a>
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">La Maison
des Vins<span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">Côtes de
Provence</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br />Route</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> Nationale 7
</span></span></b></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">83460 Les
Arcs-sur-Agens<br />Tél. : 04 94 99 50 20 <br />E-mail : <a class="x90" href="mailto:contact@caveaucp.fr"><span style="color: #1a171b; text-decoration: none;">contact@caveaucp.fr</span></a>
</span></span></div>
<div class="x90" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a171b; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Website :
<a class="x90" href="http://www.caveaucp/">www.caveaucp</a></span></span></div>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-13236126539316369752012-07-13T18:13:00.001+01:002012-07-13T18:21:18.210+01:00The Alsace Wine Region: A Brief Guide<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Alsace Wine
Region: A Brief Guide</b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">By Dr Edward Fitzgerald</i></div>
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<br /></div>
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Alsace became modern France in 1648 at the end of the 30
Year’s War, though it has twice been reoccupied by Germany. It has been said
that the wines here are Germanic made in a French way! Notable that wines here
are mainly varietal labelled, in contrast to the rest of France.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<u><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Geography</b></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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Very northern – on level with Baden in Germany.</div>
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Vosges mountains shelter to the west, running parallel to
the Rhine on the east.</div>
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Subsequently has amongst the lowest rainfall levels in
France (Colmar 500mm).</div>
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Narrow strip 70 miles long and never more than 2 miles wide.</div>
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Vineyards run mostly along the foothills of the Vosges at
175-420m altitude.</div>
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South and south-east facing vineyards situated on the Vosges
foothills.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Vineyards split between two French départments:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Bas-Rhin (lower
Rhine)</b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Never achieved the fame of the southern
vineyards</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Rainfall is higher, Vosges are lower.</div>
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·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Grapes don’t ripen as well.</div>
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</span>Lighter & drier than the wines of the south.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Runs from villages of Marlenheim to Orschwiller</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Haut-Rhin (upper
Rhine)</b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
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</span>Rainfall is lower, Vosges are higher.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
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</span>Grapes ripen over longer period into warm
autumn.</div>
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·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Runs from St-Hippolyte to Thann.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Negociants and cooperatives dominate due to the thousands of
small growers who cannot afford to market their own wine.</div>
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Wines bottled in tall, thin bottles called flutes.</div>
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Very northern – white wines dominant, only 5% red</div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Appellations</b></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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Due to strict, tightly enforced Appellation laws, Alsace
wine tends be very reliable.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Alsace AC</b></div>
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AC status granted in 1962 (as Alsace AC or Vin d’Alsace).</div>
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Until recently this covered the whole Alsace region in one
appellation.</div>
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Maximum yield of 80ha/hl, minimum alcohol strength of 8.5
degrees.</div>
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Uniquely in France the grape variety is labelled. This must
be 100% of the contents.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Covers all 8 permitted varieties:</div>
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· 4 noble varieties +</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Sylvaner</div>
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· Pinot Noir</div>
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· Pinot
Auxerrois</div>
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· Pinot Blanc
(synonym: Klevner).</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Alsace Grand Cru AC</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
First granted in 1983.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Second division added in 1992 (though allowed to label
bottles from 1985 vintage).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Accounts for about 15% of Alsace wine production.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Covers specified single named vineyard for a specified grape
variety.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Can be either 100% single vineyard (in which case the
vineyard is named) or from a mixture (in which case it is simply labelled Grand
Cru).</div>
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Lower permitted yields (65 hl/ha) and higher minimum alcohol
strength.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Only four ‘Noble’ grape varieties permitted to carry Grand
Cru status:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Riesling</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
·
Gewurztraminer (lychees or roses!)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Muscat (a
pronounced grapiness)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Tokay-Pinot
Gris (Tokay name actually banned to avoid confusion with Furmint)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Cremant d’Alsace</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Created in 1976.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Champagne-method sparkling wine.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Edelzwicker (= noble
blend)</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Variable quality blended wine – sometimes excellent, other
times unwanted wine.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Wine
Classifications</u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Vendange Tardive</b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Sweet, late picked grapes give a wine with a
higher degree of natural sugar.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Picking must take place after a certain date,
determined yearly by the authorities.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>The wine must undergo analysis and tasting
before the label is granted.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>Greater concentration of flavours develops from
the later harvesting – passerillage.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>The grapes do not have to be botrytis affected.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 25.5pt; text-indent: -25.5pt;">
·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span>The wines actually vary from dry to medium-sweet,
often not apparent from the label.</div>
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</span>Most will have residual sugar even after
fermentation has stopped.</div>
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</span>Must be from one of the 4 noble varieties from a
single vintage – most often Gewürtz.</div>
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</span>No chaptelization of these wines is allowed.</div>
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</span>Hugel family were instrumental in creating this
classification.</div>
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</span>Laws for this classification drawn up in 1983.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Selection des Grains
Nobles</b></div>
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</span>A further refinement of Vendange Tardive,
governed by the same rules.</div>
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</span>Sweet wines from (a proportion of) botrytized
grapes (sugar >256g/L or 110° Oechsle)</div>
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</span>Must be from one of the four noble varieties.</div>
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</span>Tiny quantities made only from top vineyards in
top years.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Main Grapes</u></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Riesling</b></div>
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</span>Accounts for 20% of vineyard area.</div>
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</span>Later ripening.</div>
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</span>Usually produced bone dry.</div>
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</span>Young: floral or neutral</div>
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</span>Aged: complex, gunflint, crisp steely acidity.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Gewürztraminer</b></div>
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</span>Fussy grape to grow – needs shelter. (Gewürz =
spice)</div>
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</span>Natural high sugar levels make it the most
frequent varietal for Vendange Tardive.</div>
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</span>Dry to off dry, but low acidity, high alc and
glycerol can give impression of sweetness.</div>
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</span>Distinctive spicy aroma with roses and lychees & grapefruit –
sometimes bitter finish!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pinot Gris</b></div>
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</span>Traditionally know as Tokay-Pinot Gris or Tokay
d’Alsace</div>
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</span>Early ripening.</div>
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</span>Combines spicy flavours of Gewürztraminer with
backbone of acidity in Riesling.</div>
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</span>Consequently ages well.</div>
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</span>Young: peaches, apricot & hint of smoke.</div>
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</span>Aged: takes on biscuity, buttery flavours.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Muscat</b></div>
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</span>Unreliable due weather sensitivity to flowering
- only produces well in good vintages.</div>
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</span>Usually produced dry.</div>
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</span>Low in alcohol & quite low in acidity.</div>
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</span>Fresh grapey aroma and flavour – should be
reminiscent of biting into a fresh grape!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sylvaner</b></div>
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</span>Difficult to grow, needs good site yet fetches
relatively little – resulting in bad press.</div>
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</span>Best when young and fresh & best in hot
vintages.</div>
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</span>Slightly bitter, slightly perfumed aroma and
flavour with very firm acidity.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pinot Blanc (Clevner
or Klevner – not to be confused with Klevener)</b></div>
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</span>The workhorse grape of Alsace, and forms base
wine for Cremant d’Alsace.</div>
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</span>Good, clean dry wine that’s not particularly aromatic
– so often blended.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pinot Noir</b></div>
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</span>Only red grape of Alsace – around 5% of Alsace
wine production.</div>
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</span>Rarely achieves deep colour at this northern
climate – often produces rosé.</div>
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</span>Light & fresh, with raspberry flavours –
some versions are now being oaked.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">(Pinot) Auxerrois</b></div>
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</span>Rarely mentioned on bottle labels.</div>
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</span>Mainly a blending wine with, though spicy &
soft as a pure varietal.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Chasselas</b></div>
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</span>Rarely mentioned on bottle labels. Also grown in
Switzerland & Savoie.</div>
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</span>Mainly a blending wine with in Edelzwicker</div>
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</span>A light, soft, grapey wine as a pure varietal
with herby, smokey hints.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Klevener de
Heiligenstein</b></div>
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</span>The village of Heiligenstein in the Bas-Rhin is
know for this long forgotten variety.</div>
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</span>Similar to Savagnin of Jura and probably related
to Gewürztraminer.</div>
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</span>Currently having a new delimited appellation
created for it.</div>
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</span>Dry, lightly spicy & sometimes slightly
buttery flavour.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Wines to Age</u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Selection de Grains Nobles – up to 30 years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Vendange Tardive – up to 20 years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Gewürztraminer – up to 30 years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Riesling – up to 20 years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Pinot Gris – up to 10 years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Muscat – drink upon purchase.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Sylvaner – drink upon purchase.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>The Grand Cru of
Alsace</u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Asterixed Grand Cru indicates the most highly regarded. The
Cru system is discredited by some, as they believe today's Cru areas to not
correspond to the historical high quality vineyard sites, having been enlarged
or elevated in status incorrectly. Of note, the famous producer Hugel does not
use the Grand Cru system on its bottles for this reason. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
In alphabetical order:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Altenberg de Bergbieten</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Altenberg de Bergheim – Excellent Gewürztraminer. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Altenberg de Wolxheim</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Brand </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Bruderthal</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Eichberg – Lowest rainfall in Colmar. Famous for
Gewürztraminer. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Engelberg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Florimont </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Frankstein</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Froehn </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Fürstentum</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Geisberg – Famous for Reisling. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Gloeckelberg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Goldert – Famous for Gewürztraminer. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Hatschbourg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Hengst – Famous for Gewürztraminer, though excellent for
all. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Kaefferkopf – not technically Grand Cru, but superior to
many official sites.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Kanzleberg </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Kastelberg – Planted since Roman times, excellent for
Riesling.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Kessler </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Kirchberg de Barr</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé - Famous for Riesling. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Kitterlé</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Mambourg – Supposed to have the warmest vineyards in
Alsace. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Mandelbourg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Marckrain </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Moenchberg – Firm, intensely fruity Rieslings.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Muenchberg </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Ollwiller</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Osterberg </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Pfersigberg (variations of spelling) – Gewürztraminer is
excellent.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Pfingstberg </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Praelatenberg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Rangen – A truly great Grand Cru even in poor years.
Steeply terraced, poor soil. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Rosacker – Home of Trimbach’s Clos Ste.-Hune Riesling,
perhaps the finest of all.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Searing </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Schlossberg – The first Alsace Grand Cru, best for
Riesling.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Schoenenbourg – Famous for Riesling, Muscat & Pinot
Gris. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Sommerberg – Excellent for all 4 Noble varieties.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Sonnenglanz </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Spiegel</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Sporen – One of the true great Grand Crus, famous for
Gewürztraminer & Pinot Gris. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Steinert</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Steingrubler </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Steinklotz</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Vorbourg – Excellent for all 4 Noble varieties. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Wiebelsberg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Wineck-Schlossberg </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Winzenberg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Zinnkoepflé </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
*Zotzenberg – historically the finest site for Sylvaner, but
not a Grand Cru grape now.</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<u><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Producers</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Hugh Johnson lists leading Alsace producers as follows:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Caves Becker</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Leon Beyer</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Paul Blanck & Fils</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
E Boeckel</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domaine Marcel Deiss</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Dopff Au Moulin</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Dopff & Irion</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Théo Faller</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Rolly Gassmann</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Louis Gisselbrecht</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Willy Gisselbrecht</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Hugel & Fils</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Jos Meyer & Fils</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domaines Klipfel</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domine Marc Kreydenweiss</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Kuentz-Bas</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Maison Michel Laugel – Perhaps largest winemaker in terms of
quantity 330,000 cases.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Gustave Lorentz</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Muré</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domaine Ostertag</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Preiss-Zimmer</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domains Schlumberger – Biggest domaine in Alsace with 346
acres.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Albert Seltz & Fils</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domaine Sick-Dreyer</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Pierre Sparr & ses Fils</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
F. E. Trimbach – Producer of famous Clos Ste.-Hune Riesling.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Alsace Willm</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Domaine
Zind-Humbrecht</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Olivier Humbrecht MW - The Zind family & Humbrecht
family merged in 1959.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
17,000 case production – low due to low yields.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Own four Grand Cru vineyards:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Brand @
Turkheim – light & fruity wines.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Goldert @
Gueberschwihr – full bodied Gewürztraminer.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Hengst @
Wintzenheim – full bodied vin de garde</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
· Rangen @
Thann – Clos St-Urbain top quality Riesling.</div>Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-84252317236549805802012-07-12T20:02:00.000+01:002013-03-13T12:45:19.741+00:00JASGBI Article: Surgical Trainees - Having a wine<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><em></em></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Surgical Trainees: Having a wine</span></b><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24px;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ed Fitzgerald, General Surgery Registrar</span></b></div>
<i style="line-height: 24px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Twitter <a href="https://twitter.com/Diathermy" target="_blank">@Diathermy</a></span></i> </div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><em>Published in the Journal of the Association of Surgeons of Great Britian and Ireland, </em></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><em>Number 36, March 2012 (<a href="http://www.scribd.com/doc/125826035/Surgical-Trainees-Having-A-Wine-Ed-Fitzgerald-JASGBI-Number-36-pdf" target="_blank"><b>Full print article can be down loaded here</b></a>)</em></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Whilst many
readers will be used to trainees having a whine, I would wager far fewer will
be used to trainees having a good wine. Having read Professor Alderson’s
excellent recent article on his secret wine life [1] I felt the need (after a
glass of wine) to add a few further comments.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">There is
certainly a lot of pretentious tosh spoken about wine, and a straight talking
Geordie approach is as good a way of cutting through that! Nonetheless wine is
very subjective, and the need for ‘wine talk’ to describe it is important.
There are as many different opinions on a bottle of wine as there are people
drinking it, a situation not a million miles away from some clinical encounters
I have experienced. The “mumbo-jumbo” of wine tasting talk (think <span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><em>Jilly Goolden’s</em> infamous”</span> <span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">sweaty saddles” comments) is not
always helpful. Nonetheless I would argue that wine tasting has evolved its own
technical language through the need to give physical descriptions to subjective
sensations or appearances in the same way that our own medical language
originally evolved for similar purposes [2]. These days we take for granted the
whimsical Greek tradition of likening anatomical structures to musical
instruments, plants and animals<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>-
perhaps Jilly Goolden’s elaborate wine tasting descriptors may have fared
better in an earlier era.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-style: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Wine tasting itself isn't a magic art,
although it sometimes appears so. It’s as much about experience as confidence; experience
in having tasted enough wines to make judgements, and confidence to accept and
interpret what your senses are telling you. Translating a physical sensation
like smell or taste into words is difficult, but it does get easier with
practice.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-style: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<em><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">"Tasting is completely
subjective. We each inhabit a unique sensory universe, formed by memories and
experiences. There are no rules, just opinions. However, some are more informed
than others". </span></em><em><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">im Atkin, wine writer<o:p></o:p></span></em><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Wine tasting
is a contact sport, and the more you make that contact the sharper you are and
more knowledgeable you become. Reading books can only get you so far. Like
having a good mentor in surgical training, to really explore wine you need a
good coach to guide you. Finding a good wine merchant or knowledgeable friend
is every bit as important in life as having a good GP (probably more so in fact,
and certainly better for your health). But to really understand a wine you have
to go and visit where it comes from – no hardship given these happen to be some
of the most beautiful corners of the world. Explore the land, meet the makers,
and eat the region’s cusine. Only then can you really get under the (grape-)
skin of what makes a great wine. This is as much about people, history and
culture as it is about ripeness, tannins and vine canopy management.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">I am pleased
to have sipped some of the outstanding wines recommended in Professor
Alderson’s article, including Moss Wood, Grant Burge, and Vasse Felix’s finest
– but only when the boss is paying (hence rarely!) A great deal of my personal
pleasure over the years has come from exploring far-flung or unfashionable wine
regions in order to find the undiscovered, great value heroes of the wine
world. This has only been partly successful, in that some of the wines I fell
in love with 10 years ago have now been ‘discovered’ and I can no longer afford
to purchase them! But for fellow junior doctors on our meagre salary, it is
worth spending a little time digging around off-the-beaten track. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: JA;">"Compromises
are for relationships, not wine."<br />
Sir Robert Scott Caywood <o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Nonetheless,
getting good value from wine is not just about looking for under-valued wine
regions or grapes. Currency fluctuation plays a part, with South Africa and
South America currently offering better value than Australia and North America.
Also important are the actul cash-values of what you’re prepared to pay. Cheap
wine is a false economy, yet in the UK the average price point for a bottle of
wine is only £4.85. Duty and VAT already account for half of this, and when the
retailer, shipper and fixed costs (bottle, label, cork, etc) are taken into
account very little is left over the wine itself.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The following
figures are a little out of date now (VAT is 20%, duty now £1.81/bottle, and
you’d be lucky to find any bottle worth drinking at £3.99) but they do show how
spending a little extra on a bottle gives a return on the wine inside
out-of-proportion to your extra spend [3]:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Retail price</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">£3.99</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">£5.99</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">£7.99</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext; border-style: none solid solid; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Bottling and packaging<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">18%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">12%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">10%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext; border-style: none solid solid; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Transport, storage, distribution<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">7%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">4%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">3%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext; border-style: none solid solid; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Excise duty<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">29%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">20%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">15%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext; border-style: none solid solid; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">VAT<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">17.5%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">17.5%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">17.5%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext; border-style: none solid solid; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">The wine itself (inc all margins)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">28.5%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">46.5%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="background-color: transparent; border-color: rgb(0, 0, 0) windowtext windowtext rgb(0, 0, 0); border-style: none solid solid none; border-width: 0px 1pt 1pt 0px; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt;" valign="top"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: JA;">54.5%<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: normal; margin: 1em 0px 0pt; mso-add-space: auto;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: JA;">"Wine is
a food, a medicine and a poison - it's just a question of dose".<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: JA;">Paracelus,
16th century Swiss physician<o:p></o:p></span></i><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Wine and the
medical profession make good bedfellows for several reasons. Undoubtedly there
are some historical medicinal links, now being evidence-based by current
research into the anti-oxidant Resveratrol (3,4',5-trihydroxystilbene) [4] and
other polyphenols found in grape juice and grape skins. This alone can’t
explain the fascination and passion that many doctors hold for wine.
Personally, I enjoy reflecting on a number of similarities between the art and
science of wine and medicine. Both topics involve an element of uncertainty.
Some consumers will be uncomfortable and even baffled by the many variations in
wine: what it will taste like, how it will develop with time, how it
accompanies food, and whether two bottles of the same wine will even taste and
age in the same way. Despite many years of playing this game, I still find
myself scratching my head sometimes as to how the same wine can taste so
different seemingly just because it’s not a sunny day outside! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For doctors,
who spend a career trying to rationalise uncertainties, these unpredictable
facets are perhaps less troubling and indeed add to the fascination. Without
doubt there is also an endless academic pleasure in learning about wine too,
and like constantly progressing medical knowledge every new vintage will add to
the wealth of wines, wine makers and wine regions waiting to be discovered. The
medical nerd is well catered for in the wine-world, with point-scores to
memorise and vintage charts to recite. Similarly, those of a more romantic or
philosophical disposition can wonder at how the science of ‘terroir’ - the
geology, geography and climate of a vineyard – translate into the art of making
and enjoying a wine every bit as individual as its unique vineyard site. Good
wines – and not the industrial scale, chemistry set wines too often seen these
days – are much more than a liquid commodity. Every one of these has a story to
tell, but many branded wines have now lost contact with the place that the
grapes were grown and the people that made them.</span><br />
<br />
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-language: JA;">“I was
convinced forty years ago--and the conviction remains to this day--that in wine
tasting and wine-talk there is an enormous amount of humbug” Thomas George Shaw<o:p></o:p></span></i><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">It strikes me
there is scope for more wine-related articles in the JASGBI. The ‘Surgeons
News’ magazine from the RCSEd runs a regular column [5] and I hope the JASGBI
will consider introducing something similar. Perhaps even a wine tasting at the
ASGBI Congress? As a shared interest, there can be few other non-clinical
topics that bring so many colleagues together for such a sociable activity. As
one of the founding principles of ASGBI was “…the promotion of friendship
amongst surgeons” what better lubricant to facilitate this that than a good
glass of wine?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Ed Fitzgerald had the
hepatocyte-challenging role of President of his University Wine Society, and is
a previous winner of the Australian Wine Bureau’s<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“University Wine Challenge” blind tasting
competition. He still embarrasses himself by maintaining a small wine blog of
tasting notes and musings.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">References<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">1. Alderson,
D. The Secret Life of … On the subject of wine. JASGBI 2011 35:24-25. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">2. Wulff HR.
The language of medicine. <span class="citation-abbreviation">J R Soc Med. </span><span class="citation-publication-date">2004 April; </span><span class="citation-volume">97</span><span class="citation-issue">(4)</span><span class="citation-flpages">: 187–188.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">3. Robinson
J. Why cheap wine is a false economy in the UK, and the US: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/inside051113.html">http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/inside051113.html</a> <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">4. Smoliga,
J. M., Baur, J. A. and Hausenblas, H. A, Resveratrol and health – A
comprehensive review of human clinical trials. Mol. Nutr. Food Res 2011,
55: 1129–1141. doi: 10.1002/mnfr.201100143<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">5. Surgeons
News: <a href="http://www.surgeonsnews.com/spectrum/wine">http://www.surgeonsnews.com/spectrum/wine</a> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3626606438454917703.post-90778562895842359872012-06-27T12:44:00.001+01:002012-07-12T13:56:12.570+01:00Weingut Bründlmayer tasting with OUWS<b>Weingut Bründlmayer
</b><br />
<br />
New Rooms, Magdalen College
<br />
**Archived from 21/04/2004**
<br />
<br />
Hosted by their excellent representative Thomas Klinger, who flew over from Austria to join us for the event. Thomas yet again provided the Society with an informative and entertaining overview of what are for many wine society members an as yet undiscovered region and producer of some of the world's finest white wines.
<br />
<br />
<b>Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2003
</b><br />
21/04/2004
<br />
This old vine (alte reben) Grüner is a typical, spritzig, crisp and acidic wine. Pale and watery in appearance. Still very young - one wonders how this mutates into the beautiful older vintages we tasted. It really is like a caterpillar becoming a butterfly. This is certainly still a caterpillar. The plate has a strong mineral streak with some peach notes. Some sweet fruit on the palate and as it warms up the palate becomes thicker. Needs some time. 15/20 now, will improve.
<br />
<br />
<b>Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2002
</b><br />
21/04/2004
<br />
Some rich floral notes developing on the nose. Very clean. Quite full, broad flavours, very concentrated on the palate. Big, long, balanced finish. Mineral and broad. Excellent. 17/20.
<br />
<br />
<b>Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2001
</b><br />
21/04/2004
<br />
This benefits from 5-10% botrytis affected grapes. The result is subtle and beautiful. A rich nose leads through to an even richer palate. Huge fruit, some sweetness, striking acidity all built around a clear mineral backbone. Great concentration and length. This is a really excellent, remarkable wine with more than a decade of development ahead of it. 18+/20.
<br />
<br />
<b>Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2000
</b><br />
21/04/2004
<br />
Smokey nose, could almost wonder if there was a hint of cork taint on this. Others think it is just closing up. Dominated by earthycharacters, quite different to the others tasted so far. Not comparable.
<br />
Not scored.
<br />
<br />
<b>Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 1996</b>
<br />
21/04/2004
<br />
1996 was a very cool vintage. Again, the wine exemplifies this in comparison to the others tasted this evening. Slightly musky nose. Layered palate. Quite thick and luscious, surprisingly so compared to
<br />
the others. Rich and concentrated but still musky palate. Very good, but very different in style to the previous wines. A hint of botrytis may be involved in this? Not scored.
<br />
<br />
<b>Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Auslese 1983</b>
<br />
21/04/2004
<br />
Tasted on three occasions now. Without doubt, one of my personal favourite white wines of all time. This looks like a TBA - deep gold/orange glints. The nose is beautiful, with real tertiary characters
<br />
- almost like candied fruits. Sweet palate, but wonderfully in context with the wine. Glorious balance. Medium finish, this has also lost the fierce attack of the younger GV wines. Showing full maturity now, but will keep a short while longer. How has GV been so overlooked?! Not scored.
<br />
<br />
<b>Riesling Kamptsler Terrassen 2003
</b><br />
Pale, watery colour. Absolutely wonderful, young, floral nose - honeysuckle. Very open, very light. This is a summer drinker, to enjoy young as an aperitif or with light salads. 14-15/20.
<br />
<br />
<b>Riesling Heiligenstein 2002
</b><br />
More concentrated nose than the Kamptaler Terrassen. A little more colour on the palate too. Spritzig. Heavy, scented nose - more complex. Same concentrated mineral character with good length. 15-16/20.
<br />
<br />
<b>Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2002</b>
<br />
Coming from vines with an average age of 50 years. Pale colour. Tantalisingly closed nose, slightly herby in character at this stage. Lean and austere palate right now - it tastes like the vineyard soil! Very dry and mineral. This needs at least a decade to even begin showing at its best - destined for a very long life. 16/20 now, will improve.
<br />
<br />
<b>Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra 2002
</b><br />
The nose is a little more open than the Alte Reben. Dry, but actually 7g/L residual sugar - just on the limit of perception. Incredibl mineral palate, but certainly richer. Whereas the Alte Reben is described as tasting like the soil, the Lyra tastes like the fruit! Not scored.
<br />
<br />
<b>Riesling Heiligenstein Beerenauslese 2000
</b><br />
21/04/2004
<br />
Golden. Nose of bitter apricot botrytis. Exotic and floral. Quite amazing palate, not to thick or glycerol. Oak barrel fermentation. Excellent.Ed Fitzgeraldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10441988119534102351noreply@blogger.com0