Oxford University Wine Society
Madeira is a classic fortified wine hailing from the island of the same
name. The history of Madeira is the stuff of legend. The classic style
of high-acidity, high-volatility wines originating from their prolonged
storage in ship holds, when ship used Madeira as a staging post on the
travels around the world. It is said that merchants realised that casks
kept for extended periods in the hot ship holds developed a better
taste, and century old lists from traditional English wine merchants
show a premium was paid for such wines.
D'Oliveiras didn't export until the 1980's. They hold the largest share
of old Madeira on the island due to amalgamating stocks with other
producers and exporters. Many of the traditional Madeira wine house no
longer exist. From over 100 a couple of centuries ago this has dwindled
to only 6 wine producers on the island! Due to combined problems with
phyloxera, odium and numerous other troubles that befell producers.
Madeira = Spanish for tress. Refers to the forested island claimed by
Columbus in 1419. It is said that the clearing of many forested areas
helped create the particularly fertile soil on top of the distinctive
volcanic rock.
In contrast to other fortified wines, the selection of traditional grape
variety helps determine the character of the resulting wine. The 'noble'
varieties used are:
- Sercial
- Verdelho
- Malvasia
- Tinta Negra
Other rare grapes include Terrantez (of which D'Oliveiras own two
vineyards; not grown much as low yielding, hence they often don't grow
sufficient to bottle) and Bastardo.
Noble grapes account for approximately only 9% of vineyard varieties.
The general rule is that "the higher, the drier", in that grapes grown
in higher vineyard areas are used to produce drier styles of wine.
Southern, lower vineyards are warmer closer to sea level and used for
producing sweeter Madeira wines.
The initial steps in the wine making process for Madeira and similar to
those of other European fortified wines, in that the must resulting from
pressing the grapes is allowed to undergo either a complete or partial
fermentation before oxidation (where as port is partially fermented and
sherry is fully fermented). Fortification occurs with the addition of
grape spirit, which arrests further fermentation where this has only
been partially completed.
There is a not inconsiderable amount of controversy relating to the use
of grape spirit for fortification. Traditionally sugar cane spirit was
used on the island until EU legislation forced the use of grape spirit
instead. This is said to led to Madeira losing some of its character in
recent years, and the blame is laid on the EU using this ruling as an
excuse to try and clear the 'wine lakes'.
Madeira extracts some of its deep characteristic colour from the wood it
is aged in, and sweeter wines extract more colour. Old American oak vats
are used, and if purchased new they are frequently given to table wine
makers for the first 3-years of their life to ensure the stronger
oak-character is extracted before they are used to store Madeira wine.
There are two different aging methods used:
Estufagem = wine that is warmed to achieve the classic Madeira character.
Canteiro = wine that is stored in the warm lofts to attain the Madeira
character.
To serve – the advice was don't generally chill, as it hides the
powerful aromatics that the wines have to offer. Due to the oxidised
style, the wines don't significantly deteriorate in decanter or bottle
after opening. They have been described as immortal and indestructible!
Keep Madeira wines upright – they don't need to be on their side. Look
for the year older wines were bottled – they may develop a little bottle
age as in addition to the long traditional wood-ageing that they usually
see.
D'Oliveiras 5-year old dry
Pale yellow-copper. Very light. Magnificant open nose. Burnt caramel,
very classic and volatile. Arresting palate (in a good way!) High in
acidity of course, and tastes as it smells. Very dry. Good finish. 19%
alc. 16/20. Approx retail price £17.50.
D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium dry
Darker copper/rust. Nose a little richer. Medium-dry palate. Caramel,
burnt toffee, nutty. High acid. Fuller palate. More complex. Longer
finish. Recommended with consumé and cheese such as Shopshire Blue! 19%
alc. 16.5/20. Approx retail price £17.50.
D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium sweet
Darker copper – heading towards light brown. Slightly finer, fruiter
nose but still with the classic high volatiles. Sweeter but seemingly
less body with it. The residual sugar levels are in fact very high,
81-95 g/L, but the piercing acidity seen in Madeira ensures that this
really doesn't taste that high! 19% alc. 16/20. Approx retail price £17.50.
D'Oliveiras 5-year old sweet
Copper-brown. Volatile but smoother nose, softer, more fruit coming
through. Almost tropical in character. Very sweet despite similar levels
of acidity. Heading toards syrupy. Orange peel character. Probably the
most full bodied of all. 19% alc. 16.5/20. Approx retail price £17.50.
D'Oliveiras Reserva Terrantez 1977
Rare wine from the Terrantez grape. Remained in cask until bottling in
2009, some 32-years in oak cask! Huge, long tears in the glass. Volatile
nose as previous, but a marked step-change in character. Much more
marmalade and orange peel. Reminiscent of Countreau liquer! Full palate,
classic high acidity. Rounded mouthfeel. Medium sweet. Long, long
finish. Made with barley sugar cane spirit to arrest the fermentation –
it is said this in part is responsible for the more distinctive
character. Magnificent wine. Excellent aperitif. Clear 17+/20. Approx
retail price £78.
D'Oliveiras Reserva Boal 1978
Gold Medal winner from IWC. Dark brown. Very hot palate – too hot? Very
rounded, rich, full and weighty. Oily and luscious. Less marmalade, more
citrus in style. Incredibly powerful palate. Great structure and length.
Noticeably lower acidity than the other wines tasted. Doesn't marry
together as well as the '77 Terrantez, but still an immense wine. 20%
alc. 17/20. Approx retail price £78.
D'Oliveiras Reserva Boal 1968
The 1968 is a famous vintage of Boal Madeira. Bottled in 2010. Medium
brown colour. Nose – noticeably more restrained and refined. Lighter
volatility, lighter as a whole but no lesser wine for it. Finer and more
elegant. Married together beautifully. Long and balanced. My favourite.
20% alc. 17-18/20. Approx retail £91.
My order of preference for the basic styles, with favourite first:
1. D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium dry
2. D'Oliveiras 5-year old dry
3. D'Oliveiras 5-year old sweet
4. D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium sweet
The vintage wines were uniformly outstanding, although the D'Oliveiras
Reserva Boal 1968 was a step up into a different league.
Pereira D'Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. Rua dos Ferreiros, Funchal, Madeira
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