Christmas has come around again and time to give another tasting for one
of my favourite groups. It is a particularly interesting tasting as it
is essentially the same one every year for a number of years, allowing
assessment of changing marketing and other patterns in port wine. It is
safe to say not much changes, although we missed out the Croft Pink Port
this year! The vintages do roll on and keeping up-to-date with these is
fascinating as always. The tasting was particularly well attended even
in these straightened economic times, testament to the ongoing interest
in fine port wines.
The more serious, senior ports below were decanted and stood for at
least 2 hours prior to tasting. All ports were served cool; the white
port should probably have been a lot cooler perhaps.
Sandeman Apitiv Porto (white port)
First time tasting. Quite deep yellow. Not of the Taylor's Chip dry
style, this is heavier and more traditional. Weighty, with some
controlled oxidation. Compared to sherry by one taster, and although it
is not that oxidised you get the general idea of the high-toned
character in this glass. Served to tasters with a dash of tonic water as
the Portuguese themselves do. Quite a number of tasters really enjoyed
this, although I have to say I put it in to surprise and promote
discussion! Not for keeping.
Fonseca Bin 27 (premium ruby port)
Deep opaque ruby, but no ruby port by style – far more serious and
weighty. This is as 'premium' as a premium ruby port can get – which is
really what the price tag implies, as this is a fair bit more expensive
than your average ruby port. The nose hints at a more weighty style,
with a concentrated palate. There is solid structure here, but the style
is more fruity, with amply red and black fruits on the palate in
comparison to the later wines. Could be kept but wouldn't improve; for
drinking now really.
Graham's Crusted Port (non-vintage blend)
Opaque ruby. This was not too much different from the Fonseca in terms
of weight and structure, although in style it was less fruity and
forward. Overall perhaps not as interesting or as concentrated as I
thought it was going to be. This befits the 'poor man's vintage port'
tag levelled at it. I would prefer a serious LBV to this. Drink now.
Noval 10-year old tawny port
Light amber-tawny colour. Incredible, open, intense high-toned nose of
cigars and cedarwood. Palate quite expansive, in need of carefully
sipping to appreciate the broad and complex characters coming across.
Good balance, very long finish. Excellent tawny port and one of the
wines of the evening. For enjoying now.
Warre's Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) 2001
This is no ordinary LBV, having won more prizes and trophies than all
the other wines this evening put together. It also has considerably more
age than most LBVs do, testament to the longevity that good examples are
capable of. Deep, opaque and inky. Nose similarly deep and fine-grained,
but the character is a little accelerated in ageing as one would expect
for an LBV. The palate was strong and concentrated, real weight and
structure, but without the finesse of a vintage. I was worried it would
out-show the single quinta vintage, but that turned out not to be the
case. A memorable LBV, but no replacement for a vintage port.
Nonetheless I would be happy to keep this for another decade and it may
still improve a little with cellaring.
Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage 1996 (Single Quinta)
Deep, opaque and inky. Open nose of black fruits and violets. Firm but
fine tannic structure, still relatively youthful in character. Needs
time for the raw-ness of the tannins to smooth out. It felt like
infanticide enjoying this now. My impression was that it is only just
into its drinking window. This is relatively young still and will
develop for another 10 years and keep for more after this. Excellent
single quinta vintage port wine.
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