Puligny-Montrachet 2007 (Domaine Pascal)
Pale yellow. Classic Burgundian chardonnay nose, light and pure. Wine follows a very similar style, very clean cut and classic. Good acidity and balance, very food friendly. Crystalline pure, with light white fruits on the palate. Medium finish. Everything a Village wine should be. No more than medium term cellaring potential and unlikely to improve further. 15.5-16/20.
Rully 1er Cru « Grésigny » 2008 (Domaine Michel Briday)
Slight deeper yellow than the Puligny and stylistically different. This is a wine that is trying hard. A touch more herbaceous, and a touch more acid. A little less smooth and classic but very good for it though. This is a credit to Rully and indicates what the appellation can do. More expensive than the village Puligny-Montrachet! 16/20.
Santenay 1er Cru « Gravieres » 2008 (Domaine Borgeot)
Deep yellow. Fascinating open nose quite unlike a classic Burgundy, but very appealing. Orange peel Cointreau style! Very full, powerful palate with heavy toasted spice on a long, spicy finish. This has seen some wood-assisted manipulation but not in a typical New World style, it reminded me more of a smoky-bacon old Oregan Chardonnay. Nonetheless the wine behind it can take it. This will not be to everyone’s liking, and will outface all but the most strongly flavoured Burgundian dish, but I very much enjoyed this. Will it keep? I get the impression this is best drunk now.17/20.
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « En Remilly » 2006 (Sylvain Langoureau)
From a Premier Cru vineyard bordering Chassagne-Montrachet, this is a medium weight classic providing considerable drinking pleasure now. Very clean cut with excellent concentration and acidity. Lasting finish. Although drinking beautifully now, this could doubtless be cellared another ~3 years to round it off, and would probably keep longer still. Solid, serious, classy white Burgundy. Perfect foil for the white fish Sandré that accompanied it. 16.5/20.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru « Les Chaffots » 2000 (Michel Magnien)
Not showing its age, on the darker side for pinot noir. Immediately striking, heart-stoppingly open nose with huge complexity. Old leather, dark spice, teak. Quite volatile, secondary characteristics. Full, balanced palate with firm tannins seemingly coming out of nowhere to give this some real structure. Partnered Charlois fillet perfectly. Mature, drinking now, will doubtless keep another ~5 years. Wonderful. This is the sort of seductive, multi-faceted, thought provoking wine that draws people to Burgundy and etches itself into your memory. 18/20.
Plus the odd other Burgundy tasted during local travels…
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « En Remilly » 2006 (Sylvain Langoureau)
From a Premier Cru vineyard bordering Chassagne-Montrachet, this is a medium weight classic providing considerable drinking pleasure now. Very clean cut with excellent concentration and acidity. Lasting finish. Although drinking beautifully now, this could doubtless be cellared another ~3 years to round it off, and would probably keep longer still. Solid, serious, classy white Burgundy. Perfect foil for the white fish Sandré that accompanied it. 16.5/20.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru « Les Chaffots » 2000 (Michel Magnien)
Not showing its age, on the darker side for pinot noir. Immediately striking, heart-stoppingly open nose with huge complexity. Old leather, dark spice, teak. Quite volatile, secondary characteristics. Full, balanced palate with firm tannins seemingly coming out of nowhere to give this some real structure. Partnered Charlois fillet perfectly. Mature, drinking now, will doubtless keep another ~5 years. Wonderful. This is the sort of seductive, multi-faceted, thought provoking wine that draws people to Burgundy and etches itself into your memory. 18/20.
Plus the odd other Burgundy tasted during local travels…
Pouilly-Fuissé 2008 (Joseph Drouhin)
Deep yellow. Open nose, mainly consisting of lees and subtle French oak at the moment. Quite rich palate, seemingly not yet integrated. Good weight of fruit with pure white fruit flavours. Mineralic with refreshing acidity and good length. My overall impression is of a wine that needs another year or two to pull itself together and currently comes across as a little too forced - Pouilly-Fuissé pretending to be something grander but not quite having the stuffing to do so. Nonetheless, this is a very good wine. Needs rich Burgundian cuisine to accompany it. 16.5/20.
Cave des Vignerons de Buxy
Deep yellow. Open nose, mainly consisting of lees and subtle French oak at the moment. Quite rich palate, seemingly not yet integrated. Good weight of fruit with pure white fruit flavours. Mineralic with refreshing acidity and good length. My overall impression is of a wine that needs another year or two to pull itself together and currently comes across as a little too forced - Pouilly-Fuissé pretending to be something grander but not quite having the stuffing to do so. Nonetheless, this is a very good wine. Needs rich Burgundian cuisine to accompany it. 16.5/20.
Cave des Vignerons de Buxy
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