Monday 23 August 2010

Port Wine Tasting with Stanford University Club

Brief notes on a very enjoyable tasting given for old friends at the Stanford University Club.

Cálem white port (non-vintage)
Dark, aged yellow colour with a nutty nose hinting of oxidation. Palate similar. An old style white port, and not to my tastes. 13/20.

Croft Pink (non-vintage)
Not sure about this. A new development in the port trade, this pink port is something of an anomaly. Bright pink rosé, slightly confected nose and a similar palate which smacks more of sticky mass appeal than memorable port. Personally, not a fan. Drink now (or not at all) 13/20.

Dow’s Renown ruby port (non-vintage)
Good quality ruby, better than average. Heady nose, and huge black fruits on the palate. Hot, the alcohol comes through clearly on this. 15/20.

Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) 2003 (IWC trophy winner)
This LBV is well above average, with fine weight and structure. Clear to see why this was and IWC winner. I note this was a declared vintage, so it has certainly benefited from good starting material. Although made for consumption now, this could safely be cellared for another 5 years or so given the generous structure here. 16/20.

Warre's Otima 10 Year Old Tawny Port (non-vintage)
Stylishly packaged, this Warre’s tawny port has been successful in reaching out to new audiences. Typical, light tawny-amber coloured, with lovely nose of nut and toffee. Palate perhaps lacks a little concentration, and is a little short relative to the depths of flavour achieved by some tawnies, but very enjoyable nonetheless. A modern tawny in a more approachable modern style. 16/20.

Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas 1998
Single quinta port – not a declared vintage. Nonetheless, I suspect most would have a little trouble in distinguishing between the two at a blind tasting. Quinta de Vargellas provides the backbone for Taylor’s regular vintage ports, and the pedigree shows. Opaque, deep colour. Concentrated, weighty with fine tannins and a lasting finish. This is a very good single quinta bottling. An easy keeper for at least another decade, but drinking well now. Better than many vintage ports from lesser producers.17/20.


Warre’s vintage port 1994
From a great declared vintage, this Warre’s takes port to an all together more serious level. Opaque, deep colour. Nose is still relatively closed, but multi-layered and full. Deeply concentrated palate with rich dark fruit notes and firm but balanced backbone, This is already drinking surprisingly well now but doubtless has another decade before it even begins to get into its stride. Retails for around £70+, if you can get hold of it. 18/20.

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