Easter Wines

Markgraf von Baden - Klingelberger (Riesling) Carl Friedrich Spatlese trocken 2003 (Baden, Germany)

At 9 years old I was concerned this might have faded but what a wonderful wine this turned out to be, with many years (~5) still ahead of it. My note from the initial tasting at the winery in 2004: "Only 12.5% alc. Was some kept to give a high (but hardly perceptible) sweet or full character? Very open and aromatic. Powerful palate yet at the same time some delicacy. Difficult! 15-16/20, will improve". Nine years later I'm pleased to see how it has developed. Rich and full, real concentration in this. An excellent and really enjoyable Riesling, and at just 8.50 Euros originally this was excellent value. 16.5/20.

Fagotiere Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2009 (Rhone, France)

Spicy, nutty, complex, oily, reasonably long. Some real mineral concentration behind this, with a typical Grenache Blanc Southern Rhone white touch to it as well. Enjoyable now. Will this keep or oxidise? 16+/20.

Cave de Turkheim - Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 2002 (Alsace, France)

Purchased directly from the co-operative winery. Deep yellow, with substantial tartaric acid deposits on the cork and in the bottle. Immediately open nose of rose petals and the classic lychee. Palate rich, full and rounded. Dry and powerful. Unctuous, with a  glycerol like mouth-feel yet light rose petal floral character and pepper on the finish. A little astringent kick on the finish too, some bitterness and notable alcohol, but not detracting. A powerful Gewurz, not a light and delicate in style. Really rich. This is at the end of the drinking window recommended by Cave de Turkheim. Surely at its peak now, but I think it has sufficient concentration and balance to keep another ~5 years ok (NB probably more as remnants kept several days in the bottle without deteriorating markedly). Unlikely to improve from here, on the plateau of maturity. 13% alcohol. Only 11 Euros when purchased 7 years ago – seriously good value. An impressive immensely enjoyable wine, but not a stand-alone Gewurz - it really needs Asian / Chinese food to accompany it. 17/20.

Cono Sur Chardonnay "20 Barrels" Limited Edition 2007 (Casablanca Valley, Chile)

A wine trying to make a statement, with paper wrapper on each bottle and a glass bottle better suited to weight lifting - both of which correlate better with aspiration than quality in my experience. I followed a number of bottles of this since purchase and at 5-years old now I think it's beginning to show age rather than beauty. Light, open nose of citrus characters, peach and some melon and woody notes. Palate seems to me to be drying out from a fruit point of view and is rather dry and woody. No longer as crisp and fresh as it was, with the high alcohol levels now very notable. Weighty on the palate and really strong, dominating character. Finish is becoming rather astringent and alcohol dominated. On the basis of this bottle it's on a slow downhill trajectory. Drink up soon. 13.5%. 15.5/20.

Bodegas Los Llanos - Pata Negra Gran Reserva 2001 (Valdepenas, Spain)

Light in colour with aged rim. Soft, open, gentle red fruit nose of vanilla and fully mature. Palate soft and pleasant but lacking. Good acidity, soft tannin and light in body. Short finish. Just too old and fading. This should have been drunk younger as its now 11-years old, but I can't help but think that Bodegas Los Llanos have downgraded this wine a bit – or is it golden memory syndrome? I just think that old vintages from the early 90's (albeit consumed ~10 years ago) were much more than this wine is now. Does not do justice to the 'Gran Reserva' label. Drink up. 12.5%. 15/20.

Domaine de Bellevue – Muscat de Lunel "Cuvée passerillee, élevé en fût de chêne' 1996

Bought on-site fro the winery. Golden amber in colour. Very strong, open nose – classic, rich mature botrytis characters of dried apricot and some orange peel. Dramatic, almost reminiscent of a Tokaji. Incredible plate of rich, round, full, luscious weighty sweetness and glycerol. Matched by the strength of flavour and notable alcohol levels. At 16-years old this is really quite something. Will keep a long, long time. 15% alc. 17+/20.

Churchill's Estates Douro 2008 (Douro DOC, Portugal)

Decanted an hour in advance, and gradually opened up over the course of the evening. Medium red and significantly lighter than I expected for a Douro table wine. Nose closed initially, becoming slowly more revealing with notes of light, jammy, sweet red fruits and brambly. Not that pronounced but quite distinctive. Palate not what I expected. Not particularly port-like despite the similar blend of grapes. A little austere initially, becoming quite broad and flavoursome with similar juicy red fruits. Full, high alcohol and acid. Tannins quite raw, but not at all like the ripping character of a young port. Raucous in character, quite fitting I suppose considering where it hails from. If this was blind I would have plumped for something indigenous from the south west of France! Really needs appropriate food to accompany this, and probably something cooked rare! 13.5% alcohol. 15.5/20.