Mixed Bag

Weingut Andreas Laible – Durbacher Plauelrain SL Spätlese trocken 2002 (Baden, Ortenau, Germany)

I really have had some mixed (mainly negative experiences) from the wines of Andreas Laible. Bought from the winery owner himself on a visit to Durbach, this young producer has a growing reputation. But at the lower levels these wines just don't seem to last as one might expect. In fact, they simply aren't age age-worthy as Wolff Metternich'sches or Markgraf von Baden. Especially as this is the 'SL' bottling that really ought to offer a little more than it does. Perhaps 2002 was an unkind year in this respect, although I do also remember a rather frosty and unhelpful reception at the winery which may also bias my view. Nonetheless, this wine is heading over the hill on its 10th birthday. AP number 514/33/03. 12.5%. Drink now (or preferably a few years ago). 15-/20. 

Addendum: see later tasting note for same wine suggesting there may be some bottle variation in these wines.

Domaine de la Crillonne Cotes-de-Ventoux 2007 (Vacluse, France)

Bottled by St Comme. Not entirely to my tastes, and hardly recognisable as a Cotes-de-Ventoux. All the same, this is a notable and interesting wine. Near-opaque in colour, heady on the nose and fierce and raucous on the palate - more akin to a super-charged Cotes du Rhone than a Cotes-de-Ventoux. Too raw and bold for me, too hot on the palate and a little unbalanced. Would go well with a slab of rare beef – in fact anything less would probably be demolished by it. 15.5/20. 14.5%.

Domaine Colombier Hermitage 1995

Stood for an afternoon in advance of opening and decanted 1 for hour. Light, fine sediment. Immediately notable for the surprisingly deep colour for 16-year old wine. Other than some lightening on the rim, this remains almost black in the decanter and semi-opaque in the glass. Wonderful open nose rising out of the glass, with strikingly complex notes of smoke and old leather. Has an underling earth-rusticity underlying it from maybe just a touch of brett? The palate is immense, incredibly rich. Excellent balance, quite fine, drying tannins. Moderate to good acidity. The fruit core is probably beginning to dry out a little in the mid-palate but this does not detract at all from what is a remarkable 16-year old glass of fine wine. Long, memorable finish. On plateau, for drinking now, but will likely keep a few more years yet. 17/20.