A fascinating tasting at Le Cantine di Greve in Greve. Over 100 wines on tasting, so this is really just a tiny (but well chosen!) selection. In summary, the whites were largely good despite the heavy emphasis on red wines in this corner of the vinous world. However, it's one thing tasting them in the heat of Chianti and another trying to drink them in a less favourable climate. I think something would be lost in translation taking them back to a rainy English summer.
For the reds, this was a really fascinating exploration of styles. What is clear is that modern-day Chianti has several and what you're going to get in the bottle really depends on knowing the estate's style (and in some cases even knowing the style of their different bottlings). There is a clear 'international' style (dare I say mass appeal) from some wineries, others stick to the classic Chianti Classico flavours, although perhaps using modern wine making methods to accentuate this to
varying degrees.
The 'Super-Tuscans' are distinctly more hit-and-miss on the basis of the few tasted here. Research and care are required in this department before spending what will be a sizeable chunk of money on a bottle. Buyer beware.
Whites…
Cappela Saint Andrea 2010 (San Gimignano DOC, Tuscany, Italy)
White Vernaccia grape. Light colour with open, fresh, light floral nose
of summer blossoms. Palate notably high in acidity. Thirst quenching in
the heat. Quite powerful, surprising given the lightness of colour and
on the nose. High-end alcohol. Very dry, slightly nutty, with persistent
finish. Very good – although whether that would translate back home to a
cool, wet English summer day is another matter. Drink now. 16/20.
Annita – 'Il Rio' Chardonnay / Pinto Nero 2009 (IGT Toscano)
Deep yellow-gold colour. Rich nose of toasted oak. Rich plate pretty
much also only consisting of toasted oak. In a blind tasting I might
place this as over-cooked, over-done Burgundian, or more likely
Australian or Californian. International Chardonnay in style. Probably
needs a little more time. 15+/20 if you like that sort of thing. Not for
me and not sure that wood will ever integrate.
Morabianca - Falanghina 2011 (Irpinia)
Pale yellow. Open nose with clean, fresh fruit and the typical
interesting Falanghina nuttiness. Refreshing. Medium finish. Blossom and
white fruits, balancing acidity. Drink now. Very good example of this
really nice grape. I would recommend those who haven't tried it before
get a bottle. 16/20.
Reds…
Vicchiomaggio 'Augustina Petri' Chianto Classico Reserva 2008
Comes across as really ripe and interesting, but not entirely classic
for Chianti Classico? Red berries, sour cherry, really strong fruit in
the middle of this and very smooth – moderate, ripe tannins. Appealing
glass of wine, but not a traditionalist. Will keep short-medium term,
but I'm guessing this is made to be enjoyed right now by a North
American palate (sweeping generalisation for which I apologise). 16/20.
Castillo di Querceto – Chiani Classico Reserva 2008
Light rim and medium deep core leads you to under-estimate the power
that greets you on the nose with this. Very open, classic, complex, even
a little high-toned and mature in character. The palate similarly does
not disappoint. Fine grained tannins dominate over a rich almost bitter
light fruit core. A little hot, and could be higher in acidity, but this
is good nonetheless and very much appeals to my style, but is rather
'old-school'. I mark it down a touch for not being fuller in the
mid-palate. Needs some rich local meat dish or stew and will doubtless
keep in the medium term. 16+/20. Interestingly, after I'd tasted this I
found that the wines from this estate have twice featured in 'Wine
Spectators' top-100 list. Deservingly so, if this is anything to judge by.
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2008
Difficult to 'step-down' to taste this non-reserva, so perhaps not doing
it justice. Nonetheless it is evidently a less concentrated offering.
Quirky high-toned nose, a little green. Palate is a little thin, not at
all challenging. Everyday Chianti. Drink now. 15.5/20.
San Felice – Poggio Rossa Chianti Classico Reserva 2007
Not too far away in style from the Castillo di Querceto Reserva.
Slightly deeper in colour, with a very open nose similarly traditional
in style but notably more brutish and powerful. Rich sour cherry notes.
Palate is more tannic, even a little rasping with plenty more grip than
any of the previous reds tasted. Really broad and strong classic palate
with nice acidity. Needs strong red meat, old cheese, or preferably
another 5-10 years. Would be interested to see what it turns into then
as it's probably a little too young to enjoy fully currently. 16-17/20.
Shame about the overly modern label.
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2009
Very warm, inviting, open nose. Rich and ripe character a touch more
modern but not in any way to its disadvantage. Lovely, big, rich, ripe
sour cherry palate. Good acidity. Impressive. Will doubtless keep but
would be very enjoyable now. Again, needs some big red meat to
accompany. This 'normale' Chianti Classico is a step ahead of many
reservas – and so it should be at twice the price. Another previous
'Wine Spectator' Top-100 in the past. 16-17/20.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2009
Quite light in colour and an atypical, unique nose of smoked woods and
exotic spices which leaps out of the glass - fascinating. Similar
flavours on the palate, out of place with the lightness of the wine's
colour – you don't expect this much in it. Really fine and elegant in
style. Very clean and delineated, like some sort of Italian vinous
equivalent of an ethereal Pinot Noir. Good balance and acidity. Long
finish. Not a blockbuster style, more something to savour and
contemplate. It will not be to everyone's tastes. An excellent
'normale', as one should expect from this famous estate. 16-17/20.
Poggio Scalette – Il Carbonaione 2009 (IGT, Toscana)
Pure Sangiovese super-Tuscan. Notably darker, pretty much opaque core.
Phenomenal powerful cherry liquor nose but currently still dominated by
oak barrel. Magnificent rich and balanced palate with immense weight of
pure primary fuit and ripe but unobtrusive tannic backbone. Well
structured but so young. Currently doesn't seem much like a Chianti.
Come back in at least a decade. 17+/20, may well beat that as it develops.
Antinori Tignanello 2009
Not the supercharged fruit barrel that is the 'Il Carbonaione' tasted
immediately before, this is much more elegant and refined and all the
more approachable for it. High-toned and elegant in a vaguely similar
way to the Isole e Olena. The nose is open and conveys the lightly
toasted wood and fine spices. The palate shows some lovely balance,
medium to full and not at all overpowering. I would image this will age
and develop very gracefully over the years to come. A subtle but
powerful wine with very good length. 17/20.
Marchese Frescobaldi 'Luce' 2007 (IGT, Toscana)
Sangiovese (45%)-Merlot (55%) blend. Nose is open and similarly elegant
and quite restrained. Palate does not match this, in that it is
noticeably more powerful and unfortunately far to 'hot' with alcohol.
This really spoils it for me, the potentially delicate flavours being
completely overwhelmed. Underneath there is a refined wine trying to
escape. It doesn't get very far due to the 15% alcohol on label. Shame.
I wouldn't pick this out to taste / drink again in future.
Col d'Orcia – Brunello di Matalcino 2007
Light in colour with enticing open high-toned nose of exotic spice and
burnt wood. Palate is clearly tannic-dominated with a hard edge to it.
Clear stylistic difference to the Chianti. Good balance. Needs rich red
meats or old cheeses, or 10-years. Lovely wine in a classic Brunello
mould. 16+/20.
Sweet wines…
Castello de Paneretta Vin Santo 2004
Lightly oxidised and almost a little sherry-like. Oily, rich,
caramelised. Sweet, but not overwhelmingly so. Balanced out by the body
and richness of the palate. A little too old and too traditional for me,
but one to savour.
Capanna – Moscadella di Montelciano 2009
Explosive Moscadelle aromas jump out at you. Oily and rich, low acidity,
very sweet. Blossom fruit and honey. Could be sipped by itself. Long
finish. Lovely stuff. Not for keeping.
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