Domaine de L'Hortus Tasting Notes
Since first visiting the winery in around 2002 I have a real love for this, the location and the family carefully making it. It is a gem, and despite the slow rise in price I am delighted this remains really excellent value. The magic is partly that of beautiful Pic Saint Loup itself, where in the summer the air is rich with thyme and scents of the garrigue. There are few other wines that manage to transfer this unique combination of aromas right into the bottle such that tasting it is like being back there again. Tasting it again always makes me wonder why I bother drinking anything else.
Domaine de L'Hortus Grande Cuvée 2008 (Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux de
Languedoc, France)
Stood for several days and decanted over an hour before serving. Served cellar cool. Medium ruby. Immense heady nose of perfume rather than power – young, rich red fruits and thyme. Carries on through to the palate where the depth of concentration is just beautiful – like tasting liquid garrigue. Full and expressive but not over-powering in any way. Good length with soft finish. Drinking wonderfully now but still young. This probably has 5 years plus ahead of it, but the trouble is that lush youthful garrigue quality will mature into something softer – so while it won't deteriorate you have to drink this when its showing the style you prefer. This cost around £15 from a wine merchant in France. Spectacular. This will be up there in the running for one of my wines of the year. 13% alc. 17+/20. NB. Three-days after opening this was completely holding its own and drinking beautifully without any hit of
fading. Monumental should describe it, but perhaps isn't appropriate as its really more contemplative and delicate than that.
Domaine de L'Hortus Grande Cuvée 2000 (Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux de
Languedoc, France)
Opened with the previous wine. Fascinating contrast. Not lost as much colour as one might imagine. Main difference is the striking lack of aroma on the nose. Very closed, only faint hints of anything in comparison to the huge sensory character in the 2008. The palate is more delicate and subtle version of the 2008's liquid garrigue. It's all still there, but just held back and low key by comparison. The palate is otherwise hinting that it might be at the end of the plateau, but it remains enjoyable and I would say more balanced than the 2008. Tannins really faded but the fruit still there – for now. I think this is beginning to tire out. Drink up. 13% alc. 16.5/20. NB. Second day after opening this was alive and well but by the third day had faded on the plate as well.
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