August Whites: Tasting Notes

Schloss Schönborn Riesling 2007 (Rheingau, Germany)
A.P.NR. 3105202508
Pale straw colour. Open nose showing a touch of maturity with a whiff of kerosene on a backdrop of citrus fruits. Palate is dominated by acidity but this seems a little out of balance with the strong lime and citrus fruits and slight sweetness. I think perhaps this might have been better broached earlier in its youth. Good mineralic grip on a medium finish. An enjoyable lunchtime summer wine. Refreshing, mouth-watering and pleasantly light at only 10%. Drink up. 14/20.

Weingut Andreas Laible Durbacher Plauelrain Riesling Spätlese trocken SL 2002 (Baden, Germany)
A,P,Nr, 514/33/03
I have written a few tasting notes about several different wines bought from Weingut Andreas Laible on-site a number of years ago. By and large the experience has been disappointing; however for a few of these the wines were probably over-the-hill. The ‘SL’ represents a more superior bottling, and actually this particular wine does not disappoint despite heading to its 10th birthday this year. Stylistically this is quite different from the Mosel delicacy some German Riesling drinkers might be used to. Medium-yellow in colour, the nose is a little closed and unyielding. The palate however is a whole lot more concentrated, with a dense, concentrated mineralic core, ample acidity, and some white fruits and honey. Quite oily and a little residual sugar, although that is offset by the acidity nicely. I suspect because of that its actually sweeter than it tastes. Powerful finish. This seems like some hybrid cross between a lighter Mosel and a full-power Rheingau. I don’t know if there is some bottle variation with these wines given previous experiences, but this was tasted over several days and provided very enjoyable drinking. 12.5% alc. 16+/20. Drink up now.

Chateau Thuerry “Le Château” blanc 2009 (Cotes de Provence, France)
www.chateauthuerry.com
Blend of Sémillon and Ugni Blanc. Situated in the Haut Var Verdun, this winery was an interesting visit in the heart of Provence two years ago. We have tasted an old cab sav from this winery previously that turned out to be a real star (despite my initial scepticism at the winery when we tasted it) so I have been impressed so far. The winery itself was memorable for being set in the most beautiful secluded hollow away from the main road and into the garrigue. A mix of Blofeld’s underground lair and exuberant modern art makes this all something of a showpiece winery. The fact we also received a complimentary bottle of their excellent olive oil also helped endear them to us! Now onto the wine: sealed with an artificial cork. Nose is open and decidedly herbaceous in character. Palate is quite broad, with strong lemony character coupled with a rich fullness and undercurrent of pronounced minerality. High glycerol. Dry and almost a little austere – but in a way that suggests this has more to offer in future. Well balanced acidity, sufficient to make it quite refreshing. This is an interesting wine, and more than just a lunchtime Provencal-quaffer. I would like to keep a bottle a few years and see how it develops. Good, lasting finish. 13% alc. 16+/20. Note: this has sufficient body that it should not be served fridge cold – it gave out much more as it warmed up.

Reinhold Haart - Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese 1990 (Mosel, Germany)

Light golden colour. Open nose, really mature light kerosene notes dominating. Palate beautiful although slightly lacking in the sort of mineralic concentration I was hoping for. Fresh acidity balancing out medium sweetness levels. Perfect for a warm summer’s evening aperitif and all the more special for holding up so well after 22-years! It has lost a little of its shine but it is holding well and unlikely to fade away anytime in the next couple of decades I would say. 16.5/20.