Bodegas Tradicion Sherry Tasting
http://www.bodegastradicion.com
This was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our visit to Jerez and the sherry region. In fact, I would go as far as saying that their wines made such an impression on me they have changed the way I look at sherry!
Bodegas Tradicion was not a producer I was familiar with until our hosts in Jerez spoke at length about the quality of their wines. They kindly arranged a visit for us and it was a memorable experience.
In 1998 an old abandoned bodegas was purchased on Plaza Cordobeses by Joaquin Rivero Valcarce from a successful business family in Madrid. The family had roots in Jerez and sherry trading, but these had been lost over the generations and Joaquin set about restoring the bodegas with a view to starting a new business. Located on the edge of the old city near the town walls, the bodegas is hidden off a main street and takes some locating.
The aim of Joaquin and his fellow investors was to create a new kind of bodegas, one purely specialising in fine vintage and aged sherry of the highest quality. Barrels are bought from other producers and aged at Bodegas Tradicion; in a way this makes them a negociant. Doubtless they would argue that just as much of sherry’s style and character comes from the long, careful ageing as it does from the hidden ‘terroir’ of the starting ingredients; effectively they make these wines their own.
Although much smaller than other Bodegas, the cathedral-like cool hall full of ageing sherry barrels is similarly striking. Set in one of the highest parts of the city, the bodegas receives more of the warm winds and sun exposure than others, imparting its own unique character on the maturing wines.
The Bodegas also hosts a remarkable collection of Spanish art work dating back to the medieval period, housed in the gallery which forms part of the Bodegas.
These sherries are clearly aimed at the top of the market, the sherry connoisseur; they are priced for this too in comparison to other good quality sherries. But when one considers the wider fine wine market, these treasures still represent good value.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, and certainly a testament to their quality, Bodegas Tradicion supply the famous London store of Fortnum & Masons with their own-label sherries.
These wines have aged slowly in solera or individual barrel. While they will certainly keep longer in bottle, they won’t improve and are bottled ready to drink. However, once opened the controlled oxidation these wines have already undergone means the wines will keep well if re-corked and placed in the fridge. Although they will slowly lose their edge, this can take several months - if you manage to keep them that long!
These are wines of stunning quality. They already succeed in showcasing the best the sherry region can produce; they may yet go further in re-establishing sherry as one of the world’s great wine styles.
My tasting notes from the visit follow. I haven’t attempted to score the brandies as I certainly don’t feel sufficiently qualified or experienced in this area. Suffice to say that the Platinum was one of the finest brandies I can ever remember tasting.
Bodegas Tradicion Amontillado VORS (36 Euros)
17+
Average age just over 30 years. The solera was originally started in the 1800’s, current blend merges together several other old soleras. Light, pale tawny-orange in colour. Very open, beautiful complex nose of orange peel and spices. Huge weighty, glycerol palate with many layers of subtle flavour. Real depth with long, long finish.
Bodegas Tradicion Oloroso VORS (36 Euros)
17
Average age of 46 years. Much deeper colour, with an orange marmalade character on the nose. Very tangy palate initially, developing into a thick and heavy palate with real complexity. Long finish. Excellent quality, although personally I find the oloroso style is a little too piquant for my taste.
Bodegas Tradicion Palo Cortado (36 Euros)
18-19
Described as the nose of an amontillado with the taste of an oloroso. Lighter nose, much more delicate aroma of vanilla and white spices. Beautiful smooth palate, immense reserves of flavour here but delivered very delicately. Weighty glycerol and extract on the midpalate. Smooth, lingering finish. Long ++. Very fine indeed. For sipping and contemplating. A mild Cuban cigar would be a very nice accompaniment to this.
Bodegas Tradicion Pedro Ximénez VOS (42 Euros)
18-19
Average age 22 years. Brown rim fading to yellow at the very edge with a completely opaque core. Open nose, very refined, with notes of prunes and coffee. Multi-layered palate, sweet with immense glycerol and a rich Christmas pudding character to it. Beautiful smooth finish. Amazing, memorable. Without doubt the richest PX I have tasted.
Bodegas Tradicion Brandy Gold (50 Euros)
Not scored.
This weighs in at 38% alc with an age of 20 years in old oloroso barrels. Smoky nose, very smooth concentrated palate with warm and long finish.
Bodegas Tradicion Brandy Platinum (180 Euros)
Not scored.
Aged in old Pedro Ximénez barrels. Dark mahogany colour, with complex, smoky, characterful nose that seems to have taken some of the Pedro Ximénez style. This is a fabulous brandy, one of the finest I have experienced, but is wasted without a fine cigar to accompany it!
Plaza Cordobeses 3
Jerez de la Frontera
11408 Cádiz – Spain
Tel. +34 956 168 628
Fax +34 956 33 19 63
jerez@bodegastradicion.com
UK agent: www.raymondreynolds.co.uk
was required. Plageoles is noted as one of the best producers of a grape which makes the full gamut of wines from dry to sweet and still to sparkling.