Friday 27 August 2010
Monday 23 August 2010
Port Wine Tasting with Stanford University Club
Brief notes on a very enjoyable tasting given for old friends at the Stanford University Club.
Cálem white port (non-vintage)
Dark, aged yellow colour with a nutty nose hinting of oxidation. Palate similar. An old style white port, and not to my tastes. 13/20.
Not sure about this. A new development in the port trade, this pink port is something of an anomaly. Bright pink rosé, slightly confected nose and a similar palate which smacks more of sticky mass appeal than memorable port. Personally, not a fan. Drink now (or not at all) 13/20.
Dow’s Renown ruby port (non-vintage)
Good quality ruby, better than average. Heady nose, and huge black fruits on the palate. Hot, the alcohol comes through clearly on this. 15/20.
Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) 2003 (IWC trophy winner)
This LBV is well above average, with fine weight and structure. Clear to see why this was and IWC winner. I note this was a declared vintage, so it has certainly benefited from good starting material. Although made for consumption now, this could safely be cellared for another 5 years or so given the generous structure here. 16/20.
This LBV is well above average, with fine weight and structure. Clear to see why this was and IWC winner. I note this was a declared vintage, so it has certainly benefited from good starting material. Although made for consumption now, this could safely be cellared for another 5 years or so given the generous structure here. 16/20.
Warre's Otima 10 Year Old Tawny Port (non-vintage)
Stylishly packaged, this Warre’s tawny port has been successful in reaching out to new audiences. Typical, light tawny-amber coloured, with lovely nose of nut and toffee. Palate perhaps lacks a little concentration, and is a little short relative to the depths of flavour achieved by some tawnies, but very enjoyable nonetheless. A modern tawny in a more approachable modern style. 16/20.
Stylishly packaged, this Warre’s tawny port has been successful in reaching out to new audiences. Typical, light tawny-amber coloured, with lovely nose of nut and toffee. Palate perhaps lacks a little concentration, and is a little short relative to the depths of flavour achieved by some tawnies, but very enjoyable nonetheless. A modern tawny in a more approachable modern style. 16/20.
Single quinta port – not a declared vintage. Nonetheless, I suspect most would have a little trouble in distinguishing between the two at a blind tasting. Quinta de Vargellas provides the backbone for Taylor
Warre’s vintage port 1994
Warre’s vintage port 1994
From a great declared vintage, this Warre’s takes port to an all together more serious level. Opaque, deep colour. Nose is still relatively closed, but multi-layered and full. Deeply concentrated palate with rich dark fruit notes and firm but balanced backbone, This is already drinking surprisingly well now but doubtless has another decade before it even begins to get into its stride. Retails for around £70+, if you can get hold of it. 18/20.
Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet 2007 (Domaine Pascal)
Pale yellow. Classic Burgundian chardonnay nose, light and pure. Wine follows a very similar style, very clean cut and classic. Good acidity and balance, very food friendly. Crystalline pure, with light white fruits on the palate. Medium finish. Everything a Village wine should be. No more than medium term cellaring potential and unlikely to improve further. 15.5-16/20.
Rully 1er Cru « Grésigny » 2008 (Domaine Michel Briday)
Slight deeper yellow than the Puligny and stylistically different. This is a wine that is trying hard. A touch more herbaceous, and a touch more acid. A little less smooth and classic but very good for it though. This is a credit to Rully and indicates what the appellation can do. More expensive than the village Puligny-Montrachet! 16/20.
Santenay 1er Cru « Gravieres » 2008 (Domaine Borgeot)
Deep yellow. Fascinating open nose quite unlike a classic Burgundy, but very appealing. Orange peel Cointreau style! Very full, powerful palate with heavy toasted spice on a long, spicy finish. This has seen some wood-assisted manipulation but not in a typical New World style, it reminded me more of a smoky-bacon old Oregan Chardonnay. Nonetheless the wine behind it can take it. This will not be to everyone’s liking, and will outface all but the most strongly flavoured Burgundian dish, but I very much enjoyed this. Will it keep? I get the impression this is best drunk now.17/20.
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « En Remilly » 2006 (Sylvain Langoureau)
From a Premier Cru vineyard bordering Chassagne-Montrachet, this is a medium weight classic providing considerable drinking pleasure now. Very clean cut with excellent concentration and acidity. Lasting finish. Although drinking beautifully now, this could doubtless be cellared another ~3 years to round it off, and would probably keep longer still. Solid, serious, classy white Burgundy. Perfect foil for the white fish Sandré that accompanied it. 16.5/20.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru « Les Chaffots » 2000 (Michel Magnien)
Not showing its age, on the darker side for pinot noir. Immediately striking, heart-stoppingly open nose with huge complexity. Old leather, dark spice, teak. Quite volatile, secondary characteristics. Full, balanced palate with firm tannins seemingly coming out of nowhere to give this some real structure. Partnered Charlois fillet perfectly. Mature, drinking now, will doubtless keep another ~5 years. Wonderful. This is the sort of seductive, multi-faceted, thought provoking wine that draws people to Burgundy and etches itself into your memory. 18/20.
Plus the odd other Burgundy tasted during local travels…
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « En Remilly » 2006 (Sylvain Langoureau)
From a Premier Cru vineyard bordering Chassagne-Montrachet, this is a medium weight classic providing considerable drinking pleasure now. Very clean cut with excellent concentration and acidity. Lasting finish. Although drinking beautifully now, this could doubtless be cellared another ~3 years to round it off, and would probably keep longer still. Solid, serious, classy white Burgundy. Perfect foil for the white fish Sandré that accompanied it. 16.5/20.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru « Les Chaffots » 2000 (Michel Magnien)
Not showing its age, on the darker side for pinot noir. Immediately striking, heart-stoppingly open nose with huge complexity. Old leather, dark spice, teak. Quite volatile, secondary characteristics. Full, balanced palate with firm tannins seemingly coming out of nowhere to give this some real structure. Partnered Charlois fillet perfectly. Mature, drinking now, will doubtless keep another ~5 years. Wonderful. This is the sort of seductive, multi-faceted, thought provoking wine that draws people to Burgundy and etches itself into your memory. 18/20.
Plus the odd other Burgundy tasted during local travels…
Pouilly-Fuissé 2008 (Joseph Drouhin)
Deep yellow. Open nose, mainly consisting of lees and subtle French oak at the moment. Quite rich palate, seemingly not yet integrated. Good weight of fruit with pure white fruit flavours. Mineralic with refreshing acidity and good length. My overall impression is of a wine that needs another year or two to pull itself together and currently comes across as a little too forced - Pouilly-Fuissé pretending to be something grander but not quite having the stuffing to do so. Nonetheless, this is a very good wine. Needs rich Burgundian cuisine to accompany it. 16.5/20.
Cave des Vignerons de Buxy
Deep yellow. Open nose, mainly consisting of lees and subtle French oak at the moment. Quite rich palate, seemingly not yet integrated. Good weight of fruit with pure white fruit flavours. Mineralic with refreshing acidity and good length. My overall impression is of a wine that needs another year or two to pull itself together and currently comes across as a little too forced - Pouilly-Fuissé pretending to be something grander but not quite having the stuffing to do so. Nonetheless, this is a very good wine. Needs rich Burgundian cuisine to accompany it. 16.5/20.
Cave des Vignerons de Buxy
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