Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio - Barolo Monprivato Tasting Notes
Castiglione Falleto, Barolo, Italy
Guided tasting presented by Guillaume Puzo, Thierry
Desseauve and Patricia Stefanowicz MW including the following wines:
- Barbera d'Alba,
Scudetto, red, 2007
- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato, red, 2001
- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato, red, 1996
- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato, red, 1989
- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2004
- Barolo DOCG,
Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2003
Historic estate making classic, age worthy Barolo established
by Giuseppe Mascarello in 1881. The first vineyard in Monprivato was purchased
in 1904, with the rest of the vineyard cru purchased in the later 1980’s making
it a ‘monopole’ of which Mascarello are therefore the sole producer.
Monprivato is a noted historic vineyard, having been
documented in land registry archives back to 1666. In 1985 Renato Ratti listed
it as one of the 11 first-category historic vineyards of the Barolo
wine-growing area.
Area: approx 6 hec (15 acres)
Altitude: 280 m above sea level
Facing: ideally situated SW facing vineyard (sun all day
long)
Soil: Silty, calcareous with active limestone incl blue-grey
marl.
Located in the Commune of Castiglione Falletto, with a
winery in Monchiero. The wine is made only using larger barrels of varying age,
so generally avoiding the undue influence of wood on the wine.
The Barolo Monprivato Ca' d' Morissio is the result of a
selection of vines began in the vineyard from an old clone of the Nebbiolo
Michét sub-variety grown on the Monprivato vineyard since 1922. This is richer
in aroma and tannin and suitable for longer aging. It spends 2-years in wood
prior to bottling. The hallmark of these wines is said to be “elegance and
beauty” with a more silky nature. It was highlighted that “balance ensures the
wines can age, not power”.
Barbera d'Alba, Scudetto, 2007
Clear and bright with an opaque core of ruby and a
pink-tinged rim. Long running legs in the glass. Nose is clean, medium
intensity with marked sour cherry and black spice. Developing. On the palate, dry, medium-plus acidity and
tannins. The body is medium weight and balanced. The flavours are mainly black
fruits, black cherries and spices. Medium length finish. Already 5-year old,
this does still taste quite primary and while it is drinking well now it will
doubtless hold a few more years probably without developing much more
complexity. A more serious style of Barbera d'Alba, very pure.
Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 2001
Pale-medium garnet, clearly a change to nebbiolo from the
previous wine. Long legs in the glass. Nose is clean but really rather closed
and a little austere. Medium intensity at most, still developing. Dry palate
and high, drying tannins. High acidity. Medium-plus body and alcohol. Long
finish. Does this need more time to develop? I think this is probably all
indicative of a very young Barolo, but I have to say its difficult to see the
trajectory that would take it to the level of the wines that followed. The 2001
was a great vintage, so time will tell.
Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996
Clear ruby-garnet, actually noticeably darker than the much
younger 2001 tasted prior to this. Long legs in the glass. Clean and medium
intensity on the nose, still developing. Open notes of smoked bacon, earth and
animal in character. Dry palate with high acidity and enamel-strippingly high tannin
levels. Medium-plus alcohol and full-bodied. Long finish. Altogether a very
classic Barolo. Quite fierce in its intensity currently – I imagine it will need
another decade to get into its stride.
Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989
Clear medium appearance with garnet rim and ruby body. Long
legs inside the glass. Clean nose, medium intensity and really seemed to be
getting into its stride. Open with developed complex earth and animal notes
rising out of the glass. Dry palate with high acidity and incredibly strong
high tannin levels despite its age. Medium-plus alcohol and really full bodied.
Flavour characteristics of fine tea, really pronounced and complex. Long length
of finish. This is remarkable and still has over a decade of life ahead of it!
Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2004
The "Ca' d' Morissio" wine is made only from the Nebbiolo
Michét clone. The difference from the previous wines is clearly discernible.
Clear garnet appearance, medium intensity. Long legs inside the glass. Nose is
clean and getting towards being more pronounced. Still developing, but
fascinating and complex savoury notes. Quite animal and smokey bacon like.
Plate is dry with high acidity, and medium alcohol. High tannins but a richer
wine with more body behind it to balance it all out. Elegant and really
polished. This is a great wine, with decades ahead of it.
Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2003
As per the previous wine, the "Ca' d' Morissio" is
made only from the Nebbiolo Michét clone and the difference is clearly discernible.
Clear, medium intensity and noticeably more garnet that the ’04. The nose is
also more closed up in contrast to the palate which is more open. Dry, with
high acidity and tannins. Very elegant again with similar characteristics on
the plate – complex, savoury and animal. Full bodied and rich. At this stage,
seemingly not quite as fine as the 2004 but nonetheless more impressive than
the standard Barolo and a very fine wine. Similar to the others, this clearly
has decades ahead of it.
In conclusion, the "Ca' d' Morissio" wines were
very obviously a step-change ahead of the standard Monprivato Barolo. Just as Guillaume
Puzo stated, “elegance and beauty” are very suitable and obvious descriptors –
these wines really are silky. My preferred wines of the tasting in descending order
of preference were:
1. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2004 (excellent / outstanding)
2. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red,
2003 (excellent)
3. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989 (very good+)
4. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996 (very good)
The really classic style of these wines together with the longevity
that imbues was perhaps the most stand-out learning points from this tasting. They
are not for beginners given the ferocity of tannin and acidity, but careful
cellaring will reward the patient enthusiast… probably around the time they
retire!
To put this all in context, the ‘standard’ Barolo retails
for approx. GBP£60-70 and the "Ca' d' Morissio" GBP£180-220 / bottle
in the UK in 2012.
