Sunday 1 February 2009

Fonseca Guimaraens 1988 & Graham's 1977



Winter is the time to open a good port wine...

This port has been a favourite of mine for some time. Produced from in-between vintages, where the overall quality is not sufficient for a vintage port declaration, Guimaraens is none-the-less a vintage port in all but name [i.e. not from a universally declared vintage]. In fact, to confuse matter, they do print 'vintage port' on the label. One wonders how many people purchase this without realising the "Guimaraens" branding is what singles this out as a less than the full-monty [i.e. not the famous 'Fonseca' bottling only produced in the finest declared years]. Despite this, Guimaraens is only made when the fruit is of sufficient quality, this coming from the core quinta and vineyard holdings. In effect, this is very, very close to their true vintage port.

Fonseca Guimaraens Port 1988
16.5. Keep 10-years+
Deep, opaque colour showing a little brick-red colour change on the rim. Nose is very pronounced and open, redolent of deep briary black fruits. Quite primary in nature, showing surprisingly little development as of yet. Huge, beautiful round palate, masses of fruit and ripe tannins, not aggressive. Medium finish. Given that this is an in-between year, and not such a great one at that, the elegance of this wine is testament to the pure quality of fruit and careful winemaking employed by Fonseca. No wonder the full declared vintages are so highly valued these days. The quality of this single quinta is is not reflected in the discount this can purchased for in comparison to the full vintage; it represents excellent value for money. I would keep this another decade before opening the next.

Graham's 1977 Vintage Port
17. Drinking now.
A true vintage port from a famous declared vintage. This was greatly enjoyed at the Triennial dinner at the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh - a magnificent evening that I was proud to have been a part of. The Scottish roots (albeit Glaswegian) of this port firm were not lost on me! As could be imagined for such a night, my note was brief: The core has lost its deep colour now, brick red throughout. Open, aromatic nose of spiced wood. Beautiful, soft plate with little tannin remaining but the fruit still singing through. What a wine to finish the night with! At its peak now. No doubt at this age there will be bottle variation. Although I'm sure it will keep for plenty of time yet, I think this should be enjoyed now before it starts to slowly descend.

4 comments:

Rob C. said...

Just to correct a couple of points:

a) Guimaraens is not a "single quinta" vintage port - it is Fonseca's second blend using grapes from a number of different quintas (contrast with Taylor Vargellas, for instance)

b) as it says on the label, this is a proper vintage port! (as in, it has been approved by the IVDP as a vintage port).

Anonymous said...

Just to correct a couple of points:

a) Guimaraens is not a vintage port in "all but name". It IS a vintage port! (as in, it has been approved y the IVDP as a vintage port, and sold/marketed by Fonseca as a vintage port).

b) Guimaraens is not a "single quinta" vintage port. It is Fonseca's second-label blend made from grapes sourced from a number of different quintas. (so contrast, for example, with Taylor Vargellas or Vesuvio, both of which are single quinta vintage ports).

Anonymous said...

Just to correct a couple of points:

a) Guimaraens is not a vintage port in "all but name". It IS a vintage port! (as in, it has been approved y the IVDP as a vintage port, and sold/marketed by Fonseca as a vintage port).

b) Guimaraens is not a "single quinta" vintage port. It is Fonseca's second-label blend made from grapes sourced from a number of different quintas. (so contrast, for example, with Taylor Vargellas or Vesuvio, both of which are single quinta vintage ports).

Anonymous said...

Just to correct a couple of points:

a) Guimaraens is not a vintage port in "all but name". It IS a vintage port! (as in, it has been approved y the IVDP as a vintage port, and sold/marketed by Fonseca as a vintage port).

b) Guimaraens is not a "single quinta" vintage port. It is Fonseca's second-label blend made from grapes sourced from a number of different quintas. (so contrast, for example, with Taylor Vargellas or Vesuvio, both of which are single quinta vintage ports).