Not scored
This caused some considerable division amongst those tasting it. The floral nose and pleasantly crisp palate formed one line of opinion, the flat nose and enamel stripping acidity formed mine. To mind little of merit, too old, no doubt should have been consumed in its youthful light summer fruit stage, though still think the searing acidity would have been too much even then.
NB in the Ortenau region of Baden, Clevner is a synonym for Traminer, whereas elsewhere in Europe it refers to various (interchangeable) members of the Pinot family.
Guigal – Cote du Rhone 1998
14.5+/20
Not just any Cotes du Rhone, Guigal are along (with Chapoutier and the newly re-energised Jaboulet) amongst the best producers in the Rhone Valley. This was a lauded vintage and a critically praised wine when released. Now it is over the hill. Very pale in colour, mature tertiary character nose. Very gamey nose and palate. Tannin largely faded away. Still retains some fruit and delicacy to it. Would suit some mature hard cheese. Drink up.
Guigal – Cote du Rhone 2001
15.5/20
Fascinating to compare with the above wine, tasted alongside. From a much more lauded vintage, famous for outstanding southern Rhone wines. Much more body remains in this wine. Deeper colours, long tears inside the glass. Big open nose, farmyard Brett character. Most enticing. Real richness and warmth to this. Still a big mid palate but not going to develop further. Could still stand up to a southern French cut of meat, but equally lending itself to something more structured. Hard cheeses – works well with Barnstormer cheddar! Maybe another year or two ahead of it, but its not going to develop further so why wait.
Domaine le Clos des Cazaux – Cuvée des Templiers 2000 (Vacqueyras, France)
15.5+/20
Bought directly from the domaine when Vacqueyras was still very much regarded as the little country baby brother to Chateauneuf, and even Gigondas was still relatively unknown. How times change. The Archimbaud-Vache family that produce this are charming and welcoming, with their grandmother selling direct from their ancient farmhouse some distance outside the old town walls. Surrounded by vineyards on the baked plains of the valley, they produce wines which in recent years have started to become better known. Initially not so much of a fan, I have been gradually converted over the years and recent vintages have impressed me greatly both for quality and value for money. This is their basic syrah dominant blend. Decanted an hour before tasting, with a fair deposit in the bottle. Still very dark with only a hint of age on the rim. Nose is mature with a shot of pepper and hints of black truffle. Palate is mature, but rich, warm and a good mid palate still with a touch of grippy tannin and red fruits. Good finish. Rustic wine (in a good way). On balance this should probably have been drunk a year or two ago, but it is holding up well. Drink now with rich red meat dishes.
Vinarium - Chateau Messzelátó Tokali Aszú 5 puttonyos 1988 (Tokaji, Hungary)16+/20
Produced during the post-revolution era under the rule of the Communist Party, this wine is a piece of history. Made by Bene Miklós, who has gone on to become a noted producer. This very much represents the oxidative, traditional style. Amber-gold coloured, very recognisable and distinctive Tokaji nose of burnt toffee and caramel. The plate may well be sweet, but the true level of this is impossible to discern given the overwhelming blanket of acidity. Almost palate cleansing in that respect, this wine is like a sorbet between courses. Very long finish. For those who prefer the sweeter, more modern style this may not be to their tastes. I very much like it. Given the level of acidity and extract, this wine is near immortal.
