Holiday wines

Domaine des Forges – Bourgueil Cuvee Vielles Vignes 1996 (Loire, France)
16/20 Drink now - 2014
Decanted immediately beforehand. An interesting example of a fully mature Bourgueil, from a producer that I haven’t encountered before. Light orange rim, retaining a dark core. Open nose reminiscent of a rustic Bordeaux – cedar and tobacco notes. Tannic palate, balanced, with a seam of black fruit remaining underneath. Mature and slightly smokey in character. Drying finish. It is an interesting wine, but more for academic interest. I’m not sure this is the best example, despite the good vintage. Served at room temperature, which was perhaps a little too warm (the reds of Samur and Bourgueil are usually served a degree or two cooler than this, even when mature). Given the level of tannin remaining, I think this is a wine for the long haul but I find it difficult to see it developing into anything finer than this. It’s certainly not going to fade in a hurry. The rusticity in the tannins needs to be carefully matched to food and personally I felt this was the perfect foil for the fromage!


Château de Varenne – Savennières 2004 (Loire, France)
17+/20 Drink 2014 – 2020+++?
This was undoubtedly the wine of the week, and more than anything made me determined to revisit the wines of the Loire. Served just cool, I swear that many would mistake this as a red wine in one of Reidal’s opaque tasting glasses such was the depth of concentration and flavour. Pale gold in colour, with a nose overlaid by a touch of dark oak. Underneath this was a wine with considerable momentum, and concentration – controlled power, of the like I have only ever previously encountered in Grand Cru Chablis or Burgundy. Weighty, and majestic with intense minerality. This is already five years old but seems like an infant. The oak is subtle, but could yet marry into the wine better. The fruit is monolithic and yet kept light by the high acidity, with hints of peach and marzipan on the palate. The finish is suitably long and piercing. 14% alcohol, hidden very well and particularly high for such a cool climate. I wouldn’t touch another bottle of this for at least another five years and given the ability of Chenin Blanc to age I’d wager this wine has a decade or two of development ahead of it. Very fine.


Domaine de la Rectorie – Col del Bast 1999 (Collioure, France)
16.5-17/20 Drink now-2014
With dinner at Château Cocove. Not decanted. Mature rim and core beginning to lose some colour too. Wonderful open nose, deeply impressive. Tertiary (Mouvedre?) characters of dried meats, game, light spices – reminiscent of Banyuls, it’s fortified brother from the same vineyard area. Palate almost as impressive, fine grain tannins with a rich core if drying somewhat. Good acidity keeps this fresh and very good length on the finish. This is very fine, and evolved over the evening before fading a little. I think this is fully mature, probably in the middle of its plateau and although it may keep up to another five years, I can’t imagine it will improve any further, and why would you want to keep it? Enjoy it now – this is easily comparable to a good Mouvedre-based Châteauneuf-du-Paper or Bandol in its own way. Fine.


Domaine Weinbach – Pinot Gris, Cuvée Ste Catherine, Clos des Capucins 2006 (Alsace, France)
16.5-17/20 Drink now – 2014(+)
With dinner at Château Cocove. Not cold, cellar cool and just the right temperature. Certainly the best Pinot Gris tasted so far this year, quite monumental. Although 2006 was a poor year for Alsace, this wine just goes to show what a top producer can do with their top vineyard. Light gold colour, very open, classic and pronounced varietal nose. Pure, delineated. Palate concentrated, deep, balanced and pure. None of the mushroom character from the rot that so troubled this vintage of Alsatian wines. Fleshy, almost (but not quite) oily weight on the palate. Very pure classic fruit character, this would be a great varietal wine for a blind tasting. Good medium length finish. 15% alcohol, but hidden quite well. Given the quantity of tartaric acid crystals in the bottom of this bottle, I would say that there will be ample freshness to keep this wine going for many years to come. This is a great example of the grape, but so heavy and powerful it will divide drinkers and those not accustomed to it may find this character too much for them. Fine.