Recent Wines

Markgraf von Baden - Grauburgunder Spatlese trocken 2003 (Durbach, Germany)

One of my greatest pleasures in wine tasting is finding the un-sung hero, the little wine that is trying to (or being) great without the recognition it deserves. This is certainly one of them, and I note my original tasting note at the winery when I bought it predicted such. Rediscovering it I thought it would certainly be past it. How wrong, this is only just getting into its stride – and sadly my last bottle! Perhaps the vintage has a lot to answer for, as this producer is generally not rated as one of the best in the picturesque little Baden village of Durbach. Nonetheless, this was a wine to remember at a steal of a price. Medium yellow and bright in colour, classic great open nose of almonds and a hint of exotic spice. Plate full and round, low acidity but none the worse for that. Oily and weighty, hides the high alcohol very well, with a medium length finish giving just a hint of bitterness at the end. Drink now, unlikely to improve further, but probably has the stuffing to keep another couple of years. Would have passed for a weight Grand Cru Pinot Gris from the other side of the Rhine valley (Alsace) or maybe Kaisersthul in a blind tasting. 16.5/20.

Männle - Durbacher Kochberg Weissburgunder Spatlese trocken 2004 (Durbach, Germany)

As with the Markgraf von Baden, this was another happy surprise from the cellar. We have bought from the welcoming Männle family over many years of visiting Durbach. They have always offered sound quality at very fair prices (apart from their reds!) Again, I imaged this would have seen better days but it turned out to be an excellent enjoyable wine. Medium-deep yellow, with an open nose that was strikingly creamy in nature. Ample, full-bodied palate – a very weighty example. Again, I would have placed this as being very high quality Pinot Blanc from Alsace or the Kaisersthul if I had of tasted blind. 16.5/20.

Domaine Colombier - Crozes Hermitage 'Cuvee Gaby' 2005 (Northern Rhône, France)

The first of an en primeur case, this was simply infanticide opening it this young. Deep black, with thick tears in the glass. Closed nose, just some subdued black spice. Palate full bodied and raw, with firm tannins not yet integrated and primary black fruits abound. Behind this a sort of leathery hint of classic, bold syrah. This will be a great wine from a great vintage when it knits together, but I’ll certainly be leaving it at least another 5 years before tasting again. Unfair to score now.

Domaine St. Andrieu - L'Yeuse Noire 1997 (Monpeyroux, Languedoc, France)

How I fell in love with this village, this wine and the wine makers. I remember well knocking on their house door in the heat of the afternoon Mediterranean sun without an appointment and with little French still conveying sufficient enthusiasm to be invited into the cellar of their family house for a wine tasting. Magical stuff. I forget the name of the little independent wine merchant that tipped me off regarding the family. Now they are a well recognised producer in Montpeyroux. In its youth I remember it was closed and tannic – “not to be touched for 10 years”. It was a pleasure to taste this and remember those memories. Deep in colour, not showing much age. Open, full bodied and warm, with black fruits and a hint of the Mediterranean herbs in the vineyards. Lovely stuff. Fully mature now, perhaps will keep a little longer. 16.5/20.

Chateau Peyrassol 2004 (Provence, France)

A speculative purchase last year from the excellent regional Maison du Vin in Provence. Syrah (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (50%). Showing a little age on the rim. Very Provencal in style. Open nose, really soft, attractive, mature cab sav character but not at all Bordeaux – clearly from a warmer climate and covered in dark spices from the syrah. Palate very expansive and mouth-filling, although not all that full-bodies or long. Acidity on the low side. The wine really tastes of the baked Mediterranean. Fully mature and unlikely to improve further with keeping. Website suggests 8-10 yrs cellaring max. 16/20. I would be interested to visit their winery (looks very attractive: http://www.peyrassol.com/) and taste their other wines.

Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2005 (Languedoc, France)

Daumas Gassac and I go back a long way, thanks to Samuel Guibert, although this is the first bottle opened from our 2005’s. Quite light in colour. Day 1: not decanted. Closed nose, rather closed palate. Medium body, fine tannins, fresh acidity and acohol well balanced. But overall angular and not giving anything out at all. Odd. Day 2: Open 24 hours in the bottle. A little more open, fine claret-like nose but a little more rustic. Palate showing more depth to it. Day 3: Open 48 hours in bottle. Hitting its stride. Now considerably more open. Primary light red cherry fruits predominant (unmistakably reminiscent of the original en primeur) with a touch of vanilla behind this. Palate much more broad and elegant. What an interesting tasting. The family do recommend decanting in the morning ready for dinner in the evening, but this is more likely going through an awkward adolescent stage in its development. Going by the old rule based on the number of days a wine opens up/keeps in the bottle after being opened as being a measure of potential life ahead, I think this will emerge from its chrysalis as a beautiful wine in another 5 years+ with many years of life ahead of that. Fascinating stuff.

Les Sang des Calloux - Cuvee de Lopy 2000 (Vacqueyras, Southern Rhône, France)

Bought from the winery, this has matured into something quite remarkable. I do remember visiting though, and the winemaker was decidedly unwelcoming and resolutely non-English speaking. My pigeon-French smattering of wine related conversation just about got us through – until at the last minute the price of the wines was suddenly increased from that advertised on the board in front of us! At the time I vividly remember his two wines standing apart from anything else I had tasted during that visit to Vacqueyras, and we had tasted a lot. These were clearly something special (and even before the rise, the prices charged in comparison to other village wines reflected this). Far more depth and concentration. Afterwards I remember talking to the local workers at the co-operative in Vacqueyras, where one of the head-honchos told us she had purchased several cases for cellaring. My impressions were validated, and over the years since then Les Sang des Calloux has received much acclaim and Parker points. The price has nearly doubled from what I originally paid! So it was with disappointment that some bottles opened over the years have not lived up to expectations. This did, and how. Accompanying a BBQ rump and sirloin steak, this wine would have outshone many Chateauneuf-du-Papes. Wonderful stuff. Completely opaque in colour, with only a hint of age on the rim. Wonderful rich, open nose. Ripe, almost Christmas Pudding. Deep and concentrated, with black fruit, range of complex black spices and even some coffee and nutmeg. Palate similarly rich and full bodied, very broad and full. Low acidity. By the next day it had lost much of what it had to offer. Drink now and enjoy. 17/20.