Sunday 9 October 2011

Domaine Charles (François et Fils), Nantoux, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune


Domaine Charles (François et Fils)
Nantoux, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy

The family vineyards owned by the proprietors of our farmhouse accommodation, and a recommended Hautes-Côtes de Beaune producer in the wonderful Hubrecht Duijker wine guides of old. Nantoux is a classical, relatively untouched Burgundy village nestled in the high slopes above and west of Beaune. Maybe only a couple of kilometres into the side valleys, but a world apart from the touristy heart of Cote d’Or. Keenly priced and not well known wines here; very little English spoken! Grandfather beckoned us into a tiny, cool, dimly-lit stone vaulted cellar under the house for a tasting. Unlabelled half-bottles lined up in a seemingly disorganised fashion, the contents labelled in a code known only to them. A generous tasting was provided.

For those wanting to learn more about this famous winemaking region, I strongly recommend The Great Domaines of Burgundy by Remington Norman and Charles Taylor, or The Wines of Burgundy by Clive Coates.

Pale colour, lightly aromatic, buttery and nutty. Very rounded on the palate with a decent freshness. Short finish. An above average Aligoté. Drink youngest available.

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc « Les Vignes de Déffend » 2009
Very open nose, classic buttery Burgundy. Generous wine, soft and rounded. Surprisingly hot. Light and amply suited to an aperitif or light dishes. Really very attractive and approachable. Drink within 1 to 2 years. Very good, particularly when you consider this is only €7.50 per bottle. Excellent value!

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2008
Pale red. Soft, open nose of light red fruits, not overwhelming. A juicy and rather straightforward wine, enjoyed cool. Light tannins. Lunchtime stuff. Drink within 2 years. Good, and particularly good value too at €8.40 per bottle.

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge « La Combotte » 2007
Still a pale red, but immediately more complex and developed on the nose. Earthy pinot noir style. Light tannins, but certainly more weight to this. Can’t imagine it will improve with further keeping. Good, and particularly good value too at €8.40 per bottle.

Pommard 2008
Sadly open too long in the bottle to accurately taste, but this is markedly darker in colour and comes across as a tannic four-square wine in keeping with the appellation.

Volnay 1er Cru “Les Fremiets” 2009
Typically pale red colour belies some serious concentration here. Big, open, pinot perfume rises up out of the glass. In contrast there is a surprisingly tannic and fierce palate with some serious structure behind this. Very interesting. Clearly very young, I think this has the right ingredients to go the distance here and make a great wine in 10 years time. It reflects the good vintage that it hails from. Very good, and relatively good value for what it is at €19.00 per bottle

Vendanges d’Automme Moelleux
Definitely not within any Bourgogne appellation rules! Late harvest style dessert wine. Chardonnay grape. Bottle had been open a while and perhaps not showing at its best. Nose rather closed. Palate medium sweet with rather low acidity. Enjoyable but relatively straightforward. Guessing 50-60ish g/L residual sugar? Moelleux style to be enjoyed as an aperitif or with a starter like the local foie gras. Not for keeping.


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