Monday 9 March 2009

Some wines from the weekend...

Domaine de la Chevalerie - Busardières 1995 (Bourgueil, Loire)
16.5/20
Bought directly from the well regarded domaine on our visit last summer (~8 Euros!). Busardières is the older vineyard, producing a more "vin de garde" style.

Remarkable at 14 years old. Still deeply coloured with a little brick tinge to the rim. Open nose (decanted a few hours beforehand) with fine tea notes. Plate is still tannic and structured around a light red fruit core with plenty of weight remaining. Very enjoyable; needs food to show at its best. Curiously this was a match made in heaven with Wensleydale cheese! Very pure, mature Cab Franc. Easily has another 5+ years ahead of it, but probably not going to improve much further.

Domaine le Clos des Cazeaux - Grenat Noble 1998 (Vacqueyras, Rhone)
16/20
A private wine not generally released by the Archimbaud Vache family, and only made in special years. This was part of a case bought en primeur from the Wine Society, though I don't belive they've offered it since. They don't appear to be offering it from the domaine when we've visted recently either. Made from pure Grenache that has been left on the vine and late harvested - even with a bit of rot (hence the 'Noble'). Decanted a few hours in advance.

The colour is now heading towards a pale tawny with hints of brown. The nose is powerful and heady, with game and dry earth. Mature, secondary characters but still distinctly Grenache. Palate is huge, high in alcohol, low in acid and tannin. Massive weight of fruit. Powerful and firey, this could easily be a mid-weight Chateauneuf-du-Pape if tasted blind. Now mature, need drinking.

Domaine le Sang des Cailloux - Cuvée de Lopy 2000 (Vacqueyras, Rhone)
16.5/20
Bought direct from the domaine in ~2002, and amazing to think 7 years have now passed. How I wish I'd bought more; the price has risen dramatically as this domaine has attracted Parker's attention - it has been flagged up as a potential 'wine of the vintage' for the appelation. The 'Cuvée de Lopy' is the estates vieilles vignes bottling - grenache dominant with a slug of syrah too. Decanted a few hours in advance.

Deep and dark, almost boardering on opaque core. Little hint of age showing at the edge. Big, open nose - very secondary, earthy, gamey characters. To me, that classic and distinct Vacqueyras character of dusty tannins dominates. This is a fierce wine, big and bold, with grippy, dry tannins and a very firm structure. Partnered with Aberdeen Angus fillet steaks, those tannins fade away to leave this beautiful red fruit core. Excellent stuff. Will doubtless keep 5 more years and may well develop further.

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