The Wine Society's Exhibition Morgan 2005 (Cru Beaujolais, France)
Of the ten Beujolais Cru, Morgan is fast staking out a reputation as a leader with full and structured wines more reminiscent of Burgundy than the usual Gamay-Beaujolias light-and-fruity style. Sadly this wine didn't really live up to that, which is a shame given the outstanding vintage it hails from (perhaps the best Beaujolais vintage in a generation). It was just rather aged and flat. Light medium red, nose rather closed but leaning towards earthy and raspy. Palate a little lean with soft tannin and a hint of dark fruit hiding at the back. Reasonable acidity. It was given a good chance - first served on the cool side, then warmed up and decanted. Tasted again the next day as well. I was keen for it to show something after I'd had so many great Morgan recently. It just wasn't to be so with this wine. Perhaps it should have been consumed a year or two ago? 13% alc. 14.5/20.
Domaine de La Rectorie "Le Séris" 2004 (Collioure, France)
From the well regarded Parcé Freres. Ripe harvested grenache and carignan. Aged rim and medium-light red core. Nose never opened up despite decanting. It never managed anything more than the sort of occasional Southern Rhone baked, oxidised grenache nose you sometimes come across. Palate was pretty much the same. Hot and flat. I looked hard for cork taint in this wine in the hope there was something more, but to be honest I think this is just as good as it gets. Very disappointing for a wine and producer that is generally well spoken of amongst those familiar with the lesser-known wines of Collioure. I can imagine it might have been better 3 or 4 years ago, although I note the original en primeur tasting notes from the Wine Society give a drinking window 2007-2014. 13% alc. Use for cooking. 13.5/20. (There are several left in the cellar - I hope one or two will show better!)
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