Top Côtes du Rhône Village

Domaine Brusset "Chabriles" 2006 (Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Village, France)

Bought from the Domaine's shop in Gigondas, this is a fine example of why Cairanne should have its own Appellation d'origine Contrôlée. Brusset is a highly regarded producer with vineyards in most of the prime CdR Village in this area, in addition to Gigondas itself. This is 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah made from 80-year old vines. Opaque in colour and heavy sediment in the bottle, this was decanted prior to serving. Rich nose of mild pepper and hints of black fruits. Palate dominated by dusty tannins but with a big seam of dark fruits behind this, really redolent of black cherry and violets with a touch of vanilla. Very robust and structured. A little warm on the palate with alcohol. Côtes du Rhône Village doesn't come much better than this. Probably drunk a little earlier than I should; doubtless this had another 5+ years in it. This needs some sturdy food to accompany it - we chose the aged steak for two at the excellent Hart's Restaurant in Nottingham (we paid corkage for bringing our own wine). I do wonder whether the fruit might have been more to the fore with decanting further in advance. 16(+)/20.

Winter Port Wine Recommendation

Graham's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003 (Portugal)
I've written about this before; nice to taste again a couple of years later. What a great port this is, certainly the best LBV I can recall. Tasted blind I'm sure many would mistake this for a medium vintage port, although granted 2003 was an excellent declared vintage. A worthy winner of the IWC Gold Medal a few years back. Opaque colour, open nose of black fruits and violets that hints of hidden depth still to come. Rich, dusty yet opulent palate with tremendous power and grip yet entirely balanced. Not a million miles away from the sort of super-charged porty wines one comes across from the Pacific Coast or regions of Australia. This is a class act, and although bottled ready to drink it should keep (hold perhaps - may not actually improve) for a decade I would think. Also great value for the quality. 16.5-17/20.

Classic Claret

Chateau Lynch-Moussas 1996

(Grand Cru Classe - Pauillac, Bordeaux, France)

Won at a Wellesley family wine tasting many years ago (?2001), this had been tucked away for 10 years to reach maturity. In that time not only had the wine mellowed but the demand for top Bordeaux has seen the price of Lynch-Moussas double! Saved for a suitably great catch-up dinner at the Oxford & Cambridge club, and decanted in advance for us. Quite wonderful stuff. Still deep medium core of colour, and an opulent open nose of cedar and tobacco. Incredibly smooth tannins and balanced, still fresh-and-fruit rather than old and thinning. A very fine classic, and a pleasure to drink. I find it can be so hit-and-miss choosing the right moment to open, but definitely got this at just the right point before it started the downhill slide. 16.5/20 (and that's from someone who generally isn't a huge fan of claret!)

Drink up, this is surely at its best right now.

Of note: Parker 86 pts, 2004-2012.

Could be better...

The Wine Society's Exhibition Morgan 2005 (Cru Beaujolais, France)

Of the ten Beujolais Cru, Morgan is fast staking out a reputation as a leader with full and structured wines more reminiscent of Burgundy than the usual Gamay-Beaujolias light-and-fruity style. Sadly this wine didn't really live up to that, which is a shame given the outstanding vintage it hails from (perhaps the best Beaujolais vintage in a generation). It was just rather aged and flat. Light medium red, nose rather closed but leaning towards earthy and raspy. Palate a little lean with soft tannin and a hint of dark fruit hiding at the back. Reasonable acidity. It was given a good chance - first served on the cool side, then warmed up and decanted. Tasted again the next day as well. I was keen for it to show something after I'd had so many great Morgan recently. It just wasn't to be so with this wine. Perhaps it should have been consumed a year or two ago? 13% alc. 14.5/20.

Domaine de La Rectorie "Le Séris" 2004 (Collioure, France)

From the well regarded Parcé Freres. Ripe harvested grenache and carignan. Aged rim and medium-light red core. Nose never opened up despite decanting. It never managed anything more than the sort of occasional Southern Rhone baked, oxidised grenache nose you sometimes come across. Palate was pretty much the same. Hot and flat. I looked hard for cork taint in this wine in the hope there was something more, but to be honest I think this is just as good as it gets. Very disappointing for a wine and producer that is generally well spoken of amongst those familiar with the lesser-known wines of Collioure. I can imagine it might have been better 3 or 4 years ago, although I note the original en primeur tasting notes from the Wine Society give a drinking window 2007-2014. 13% alc. Use for cooking. 13.5/20. (There are several left in the cellar - I hope one or two will show better!)