Sunday 13 February 2011

Top Côtes du Rhône Village

Domaine Brusset "Chabriles" 2006 (Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Village, France)

Bought from the Domaine's shop in Gigondas, this is a fine example of why Cairanne should have its own Appellation d'origine Contrôlée. Brusset is a highly regarded producer with vineyards in most of the prime CdR Village in this area, in addition to Gigondas itself. This is 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah made from 80-year old vines. Opaque in colour and heavy sediment in the bottle, this was decanted prior to serving. Rich nose of mild pepper and hints of black fruits. Palate dominated by dusty tannins but with a big seam of dark fruits behind this, really redolent of black cherry and violets with a touch of vanilla. Very robust and structured. A little warm on the palate with alcohol. Côtes du Rhône Village doesn't come much better than this. Probably drunk a little earlier than I should; doubtless this had another 5+ years in it. This needs some sturdy food to accompany it - we chose the aged steak for two at the excellent Hart's Restaurant in Nottingham (we paid corkage for bringing our own wine). I do wonder whether the fruit might have been more to the fore with decanting further in advance. 16(+)/20.

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