Summer Red Wine tasting notes

Domaine de la Chevalerie “Vieilles Vignes” Bourgueil 2005 (Loire, France)

Quite different to previous wines tasted from this excellent producer, although this shouldn’t be surprising as the wines tend to be true to the vintage and this is the excellent 2005 vintage. Rather than the typical classic cab franc character usually encountered, this is still relatively primary and red fruit dominated despite 7-years of age. Enjoyable now but the best is yet to come. From previous experience this should have a good decade of development ahead of it. 16/20 currently. Will improve. 13.5% alc.

Domaine de la Rectorie “Le Seris” Collioure 2001 (Collioure, France)

Stood for an hour before opening and decanted half-an-hour before tasting (given its continuing improvement, in retrospect I would say needs 1-hour+). Served at a cool room temperature. Deep ruby but not by any means opaque. Nose gradually opened up developing quite rich fruit-cake aromas (must be Grenache dominated?)with some black pepper. Palate is broad and notably hot; the 14.8% alc does show but doesn’t overly detract given the concentration of the palate. My only criticism is that it is a little plump and the acidity is not as fresh as I would like. But then this is not surprising given its provenance. This makes for a very full and rich wine, which despite is age (11-years) does not appear that tertiary in character. Nonetheless, I think this is probably peaking and I personally wouldn’t risk keeping it further. Needs a big rich accompaniment – on this occasion steak and ale pie! 16.5/20. NB. Of note, I have also had several bottles of the 2004 vintage of this wine, all of which have been faulty. ADDENDUM: re-tasted the remainder 4-days after opening and it had continued to develop into a lovely glass of wine, much more brooding and deep on the nose without really fading on the palate. Decant well in advance and consider keeping a little longer?

Bodega Norton Malbec Reserva 2009 (Mendoza, Argentina)

Almost opaque deep ruby. Open nose, concentrated, pronounced dark berry fruits, quite rich and ripe, almost chocolaty! Palate is similarly rich and broad – weighty with some real stuffing. A touch warm, but balanced by the high levels of concentrated ripe fruit and medium tannins. At this stage it is more fruit than tannin. Could have done with slightly higher acidity levels I feel. Good medium length finish. I imagine this would go very nicely with a South American steak. 14.5% alc. Will clearly keep medium term and probably longer, although personally I like the way it comes across now and not sure how it would improve with age if it lost the appealing dark fruit character. I should note that this doesn’t really resemble your typical Cahors malbec, quite different in style and character. Needs opening a couple of hours in advance and preferably decanting to open it up, although not currently throwing any sediment (yet).16.5/20.

Chateau Chasse-Spleen Cru Bourgeois 2000 (Moulis-en-Medoc, Bordeaux, France)

Enjoyed at the O&C. Half-bottle, decanted immediately before drinking. Deep ruby, moderately open nose but still coming across as very young. None of those classic tertiary, bottle-aged notes have started to develop yet. Palate just turning towards some degree of an aged-character, softening out a little bit from the primary fruit I expected, but still a long, long way from any sort of maturity. Concentrated, full and ripe with firm tannic structure behind it. Impressively youthful for 12-years old, especially given this is from a half-bottle. Testament to the fabulous 2000 vintage, this has a long life ahead of it. I’d be tempted to open my next to taste in another 5 to 10-years. 16.5/20 (and will likely score higher in future).

Candido Duca d’Aragona 1999 (IGT Salento Rosso, Italy)

Blend of Negro Amaro and Montepulciano. Decanted in advance. Getting a little tired at 13-years old. Light ruby with brick-red rim. Nose quite dark and brambly. Not particularly open despite decanting. Earthy, coffee, tertiary notes. Palate quite firm, full bodied and intense. Powerful dark fruits and firm, dry, tannic grip. Starting to fade? Warm at 14% alc but the body of the wine easily handles it. Good length, quite a black spice finish, very drying. Needs red meat or hard strong cheese to balance it out. I wonder what this was like a few years ago? A little disappointing for an expensive, flagship wine - I think we’ve missed its prime. 15.5/20. NB. I note the 2001 received 3-stars in the 2008 Decanter World Wine Awards – I think there are better Salento reds than this to track down.

Domaine D’Aupilhac Montpeyroux 2001 (Coteaux du Languedoc, France)

Produced by the notable winemaker Sylvain Fadat. Decanted an hour before drinking, then tasted over the next 24-hours. Deeply opaque. Moderately open nose of black fruits – not showing much aged tertiary characters. Plate is all strong black olives with a touch of tobacco. Really full-bodied, a little rustic, with very firm tannins. Non-filtered, and it tasted like it. 14.5%, but doesn’t taste hot at all. This demands a big slab of meat or game, or strong hard cheese to accompany it. At 11-years old this is showing remarkable well. Which way is this going to go from here? I’m not entirely sure, perhaps as I would never have expected it to make it this far so well! Kept very well in the decanter for over 24-hours so I suspect it isn’t going to fade away any time soon. One bottle left that I will keep a few more years to see. 16.5/20.

Seghesio Barbera d’Alba 2005 (Piedmont, Italy)

Light and fruit-driven Barbera. Jammy young juicy red fruits and medium body. This is more of a pasta wine and was out-shone by anything more meaty to accompany it. Good balancing acidity and light tannins. Tasty but not too serious. Drinking well now but not for keeping further. 15/20.

Chateau Montmirail "Cuvee de L'Ermite" 2004 (Vacqueyras, Rhone, France)

Fair but unexciting. Would have been better drunk young. More of a Cote-de-Rhone than anything more special. Drink up. 14.5/20. In the list of Vacqueyras wineries, this is very middle-ranking. While producing standard wines, nothing from here have ever really caught my interest and I think there are probably better wine producers to visit in the village these days.

Dinner with Friends: Châteauneuf + Tokaji

Pierre Gimonnet - Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc NV

Cellared for 5-years in addition to any bottle ageing prior to original release. This was drinking beautifully. Clear and bright, with a fine mousse. Soft, nutty characteristics held together with ample acidity. Lovely aperitif but actually sufficient body to accompany the scallops served as first course. Sadly Pierre Gimonnet has been well and truly ‘discovered’ since this was purchased and it pained me to look by and see how little had originally been paid for this. Drinking well, no hurry.

Ch de Montmirail - Vacqueyras Blanc 2006 (Rhone, France)

Very classic Vacqueyras blanc in style. This was in the balance as to whether to keep it or drink young. As it happened it was drinking rather well, but had taken on a rather oxidised nutty and chemical character to it. Was better served slightly warm rather than fridge cold. All-in-all though I suspect this would have been better drunk in its youth. Too much body and a real clash of flavours to go with the scallops. Drink up.

Domaine Bois de Bourson - Châteauneuf du Pape 1999 (Rhone, France)

This remains a remarkably enjoyable wine. Decanted an hour before drinking and served at a cool room temperature after half-an-hour in the fridge. Gloriously open with fully mature tertiary character on the nose and a light touch of Brett adding lovely complexity. Classic Châteauneuf. Gamey, woody, truffle and black spice. You could just sit and savour the aromas for some time. Palate is very similar in character with fine tannins and balancing acidity. Although this is fully mature and not going to improve further there is no hint of tiredness discernible. To be enjoyed with great drinking pleasure over the next 3-5 years would be my best guess (in spite of what Mr Parker might say – included for reference below). Really excellent value Châteauneuf du Pape.

For reference, the Parker note: 89 points. The saturated dark ruby-colored 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape offers a big, Provencal bouquet of earth, crushed pepper, garrigue, and black fruits. Pungent and spicy, with rich, soft, full-bodied flavors, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-12 years.

Vinarium - Château Messzelátó Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 1988 (Tokaji, Hungary)

Château Messzelátó is documented as one of the leading Tokaj estates. In the 1980s the wine was produced and bottled by Miklós Bene who went on to become a leading player in the new Tokaji wine scene under the Tokajbor Bene brand. The 1988 was exclusively available from Oddbins (sadly deceased). This is very typical of Tokaji of the era. Dark colour, open typical Tokaji nose of burnt marmalade notes with some notable oxidative character. Luscious palate, orange fruit and nut character. High acidity offsets the sweetness very effectively. Complex, although I suspect modern fans of Tokaji may find this quite oxidised for their liking. Nonetheless remarkable wine to savour at the end of an evening! Drink whenever; it may already be past its high-point but will last as it is for many years to come.

Birthday Wines at the Atheneaum

Domaine Weinbach - Riesling Clos des Capucins 2008 (Alsace, France)

Given my love of this winery, this particular bottling struck me as rather plain for them. Perfectly decent, perfectly reasonable, I’ve perhaps just come to expect too much from them (based on the incredible Cuvée Ste Catherine wines). Already quite evolved and kerosene on the nose. Perfect to quaff on a summers evening such as this. Lightly mineralic with high acidity. 15.5/20.

Fabien Jouves - Mas Del Perie 'You Fuck My Wine?!' (Vin de Table, Sud Ouest, France)

Oh, how I wish I had a picture of the label on this – that really is what it is called. Thankfully the staff member opening this did not have a European language as their first and I think (hope) the label was lost on them. The story is that the wine maker was asked to remove the Jurancon Noir in this ‘Cahors’ wine. The wine maker disagreed and released it with this label as a message to them. This was actually really excellent. Youthful, characterful, ripe and full bodied but with a nicely balancing relatively high acidity. Rich Cherries, and quite distinctive with it. Far better than many local ‘Cahors’ wines. 17/20.

Domaine Rossignol Trapet - Latricières Chambertin Grand Cru 2006 (Burgundy, France)

Latricières is a small parcel adjacent to Chambertin. This is a little light for a Grand Cru in my books but very pure and delineated. I hate to say it, but yes it is silky. Fine, classy, and classic. Difficult to fault technically, Has it got the guts to age? Its already coming across quite developed. I feel a little harsh saying this given it really is very good, but it just doesn’t so it for me and I think there are gutsier Grand Cru Burgundy that I would prefer over this. 16.5/20. Retails for around £70 with Majestic and perhaps that’s why I’d like a little more from it – but then that’s just the price of Grand Cru Burgundy sadly, no matter what’s in the bottle. In fact, cheaper than many!

M. Chapoutier - Rivesaltes 1978 (Languedoc-Roussillon, France)

Vins Doux Naturel. There were some question marks as to how a ’78 of this wine would still be drinking. We really needn’t have worried! Profound, high-toned, smooth and memorable. Probably immortal. Still some sweetness on the palate, but the typical youthful richness had moulded into something broader and quite special here. To be savoured slowly with best friends. 17+/20.