Dinner with Friends: Châteauneuf + Tokaji

Pierre Gimonnet - Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc NV

Cellared for 5-years in addition to any bottle ageing prior to original release. This was drinking beautifully. Clear and bright, with a fine mousse. Soft, nutty characteristics held together with ample acidity. Lovely aperitif but actually sufficient body to accompany the scallops served as first course. Sadly Pierre Gimonnet has been well and truly ‘discovered’ since this was purchased and it pained me to look by and see how little had originally been paid for this. Drinking well, no hurry.

Ch de Montmirail - Vacqueyras Blanc 2006 (Rhone, France)

Very classic Vacqueyras blanc in style. This was in the balance as to whether to keep it or drink young. As it happened it was drinking rather well, but had taken on a rather oxidised nutty and chemical character to it. Was better served slightly warm rather than fridge cold. All-in-all though I suspect this would have been better drunk in its youth. Too much body and a real clash of flavours to go with the scallops. Drink up.

Domaine Bois de Bourson - Châteauneuf du Pape 1999 (Rhone, France)

This remains a remarkably enjoyable wine. Decanted an hour before drinking and served at a cool room temperature after half-an-hour in the fridge. Gloriously open with fully mature tertiary character on the nose and a light touch of Brett adding lovely complexity. Classic Châteauneuf. Gamey, woody, truffle and black spice. You could just sit and savour the aromas for some time. Palate is very similar in character with fine tannins and balancing acidity. Although this is fully mature and not going to improve further there is no hint of tiredness discernible. To be enjoyed with great drinking pleasure over the next 3-5 years would be my best guess (in spite of what Mr Parker might say – included for reference below). Really excellent value Châteauneuf du Pape.

For reference, the Parker note: 89 points. The saturated dark ruby-colored 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape offers a big, Provencal bouquet of earth, crushed pepper, garrigue, and black fruits. Pungent and spicy, with rich, soft, full-bodied flavors, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-12 years.

Vinarium - Château Messzelátó Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 1988 (Tokaji, Hungary)

Château Messzelátó is documented as one of the leading Tokaj estates. In the 1980s the wine was produced and bottled by Miklós Bene who went on to become a leading player in the new Tokaji wine scene under the Tokajbor Bene brand. The 1988 was exclusively available from Oddbins (sadly deceased). This is very typical of Tokaji of the era. Dark colour, open typical Tokaji nose of burnt marmalade notes with some notable oxidative character. Luscious palate, orange fruit and nut character. High acidity offsets the sweetness very effectively. Complex, although I suspect modern fans of Tokaji may find this quite oxidised for their liking. Nonetheless remarkable wine to savour at the end of an evening! Drink whenever; it may already be past its high-point but will last as it is for many years to come.