Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio - Barolo Monprivato Tasting Notes

Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio - Barolo Monprivato Tasting Notes

Castiglione Falleto, Barolo, Italy

Guided tasting presented by Guillaume Puzo, Thierry Desseauve and Patricia Stefanowicz MW including the following wines:

    - Barbera d'Alba, Scudetto, red, 2007

    - Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 2001

    - Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996

    - Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989

    - Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2004

    - Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2003

Historic estate making classic, age worthy Barolo established by Giuseppe Mascarello in 1881. The first vineyard in Monprivato was purchased in 1904, with the rest of the vineyard cru purchased in the later 1980’s making it a ‘monopole’ of which Mascarello are therefore the sole producer.

Monprivato is a noted historic vineyard, having been documented in land registry archives back to 1666. In 1985 Renato Ratti listed it as one of the 11 first-category historic vineyards of the Barolo wine-growing area.

Area: approx 6 hec (15 acres)

Altitude: 280 m above sea level

Facing: ideally situated SW facing vineyard (sun all day long)

Soil: Silty, calcareous with active limestone incl blue-grey marl.

Located in the Commune of Castiglione Falletto, with a winery in Monchiero. The wine is made only using larger barrels of varying age, so generally avoiding the undue influence of wood on the wine.

The Barolo Monprivato Ca' d' Morissio is the result of a selection of vines began in the vineyard from an old clone of the Nebbiolo Michét sub-variety grown on the Monprivato vineyard since 1922. This is richer in aroma and tannin and suitable for longer aging. It spends 2-years in wood prior to bottling. The hallmark of these wines is said to be “elegance and beauty” with a more silky nature. It was highlighted that “balance ensures the wines can age, not power”.

Barbera d'Alba, Scudetto, 2007

Clear and bright with an opaque core of ruby and a pink-tinged rim. Long running legs in the glass. Nose is clean, medium intensity with marked sour cherry and black spice. Developing.  On the palate, dry, medium-plus acidity and tannins. The body is medium weight and balanced. The flavours are mainly black fruits, black cherries and spices. Medium length finish. Already 5-year old, this does still taste quite primary and while it is drinking well now it will doubtless hold a few more years probably without developing much more complexity. A more serious style of Barbera d'Alba, very pure.

Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 2001

Pale-medium garnet, clearly a change to nebbiolo from the previous wine. Long legs in the glass. Nose is clean but really rather closed and a little austere. Medium intensity at most, still developing. Dry palate and high, drying tannins. High acidity. Medium-plus body and alcohol. Long finish. Does this need more time to develop? I think this is probably all indicative of a very young Barolo, but I have to say its difficult to see the trajectory that would take it to the level of the wines that followed. The 2001 was a great vintage, so time will tell.

Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996

Clear ruby-garnet, actually noticeably darker than the much younger 2001 tasted prior to this. Long legs in the glass. Clean and medium intensity on the nose, still developing. Open notes of smoked bacon, earth and animal in character. Dry palate with high acidity and enamel-strippingly high tannin levels. Medium-plus alcohol and full-bodied. Long finish. Altogether a very classic Barolo. Quite fierce in its intensity currently – I imagine it will need another decade to get into its stride.

Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989

Clear medium appearance with garnet rim and ruby body. Long legs inside the glass. Clean nose, medium intensity and really seemed to be getting into its stride. Open with developed complex earth and animal notes rising out of the glass. Dry palate with high acidity and incredibly strong high tannin levels despite its age. Medium-plus alcohol and really full bodied. Flavour characteristics of fine tea, really pronounced and complex. Long length of finish. This is remarkable and still has over a decade of life ahead of it!

Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2004

The "Ca' d' Morissio" wine is made only from the Nebbiolo Michét clone. The difference from the previous wines is clearly discernible. Clear garnet appearance, medium intensity. Long legs inside the glass. Nose is clean and getting towards being more pronounced. Still developing, but fascinating and complex savoury notes. Quite animal and smokey bacon like. Plate is dry with high acidity, and medium alcohol. High tannins but a richer wine with more body behind it to balance it all out. Elegant and really polished. This is a great wine, with decades ahead of it.

Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2003

As per the previous wine, the "Ca' d' Morissio" is made only from the Nebbiolo Michét clone and the difference is clearly discernible. Clear, medium intensity and noticeably more garnet that the ’04. The nose is also more closed up in contrast to the palate which is more open. Dry, with high acidity and tannins. Very elegant again with similar characteristics on the plate – complex, savoury and animal. Full bodied and rich. At this stage, seemingly not quite as fine as the 2004 but nonetheless more impressive than the standard Barolo and a very fine wine. Similar to the others, this clearly has decades ahead of it.

In conclusion, the "Ca' d' Morissio" wines were very obviously a step-change ahead of the standard Monprivato Barolo. Just as Guillaume Puzo stated, “elegance and beauty” are very suitable and obvious descriptors – these wines really are silky. My preferred wines of the tasting in descending order of preference were:

1. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2004 (excellent / outstanding)

2. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato "Ca' d' Morissio", red, 2003 (excellent)

3. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1989 (very good+)

4. Barolo DOCG, Monprivato, red, 1996 (very good)

The really classic style of these wines together with the longevity that imbues was perhaps the most stand-out learning points from this tasting. They are not for beginners given the ferocity of tannin and acidity, but careful cellaring will reward the patient enthusiast… probably around the time they retire!

To put this all in context, the ‘standard’ Barolo retails for approx. GBP£60-70 and the "Ca' d' Morissio" GBP£180-220 / bottle in the UK in 2012.