East India Club Port Tasting

Christmas has come around again and time to give another tasting for one
of my favourite groups. It is a particularly interesting tasting as it
is essentially the same one every year for a number of years, allowing
assessment of changing marketing and other patterns in port wine. It is
safe to say not much changes, although we missed out the Croft Pink Port
this year! The vintages do roll on and keeping up-to-date with these is
fascinating as always. The tasting was particularly well attended even
in these straightened economic times, testament to the ongoing interest
in fine port wines.

The more serious, senior ports below were decanted and stood for at
least 2 hours prior to tasting. All ports were served cool; the white
port should probably have been a lot cooler perhaps.

Sandeman Apitiv Porto (white port)
First time tasting. Quite deep yellow. Not of the Taylor's Chip dry
style, this is heavier and more traditional. Weighty, with some
controlled oxidation. Compared to sherry by one taster, and although it
is not that oxidised you get the general idea of the high-toned
character in this glass. Served to tasters with a dash of tonic water as
the Portuguese themselves do. Quite a number of tasters really enjoyed
this, although I have to say I put it in to surprise and promote
discussion! Not for keeping.

Fonseca Bin 27 (premium ruby port)
Deep opaque ruby, but no ruby port by style – far more serious and
weighty. This is as 'premium' as a premium ruby port can get – which is
really what the price tag implies, as this is a fair bit more expensive
than your average ruby port. The nose hints at a more weighty style,
with a concentrated palate. There is solid structure here, but the style
is more fruity, with amply red and black fruits on the palate in
comparison to the later wines. Could be kept but wouldn't improve; for
drinking now really.

Graham's Crusted Port (non-vintage blend)
Opaque ruby. This was not too much different from the Fonseca in terms
of weight and structure, although in style it was less fruity and
forward. Overall perhaps not as interesting or as concentrated as I
thought it was going to be. This befits the 'poor man's vintage port'
tag levelled at it. I would prefer a serious LBV to this. Drink now.

Noval 10-year old tawny port
Light amber-tawny colour. Incredible, open, intense high-toned nose of
cigars and cedarwood. Palate quite expansive, in need of carefully
sipping to appreciate the broad and complex characters coming across.
Good balance, very long finish. Excellent tawny port and one of the
wines of the evening. For enjoying now.

Warre's Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) 2001
This is no ordinary LBV, having won more prizes and trophies than all
the other wines this evening put together. It also has considerably more
age than most LBVs do, testament to the longevity that good examples are
capable of. Deep, opaque and inky. Nose similarly deep and fine-grained,
but the character is a little accelerated in ageing as one would expect
for an LBV. The palate was strong and concentrated, real weight and
structure, but without the finesse of a vintage. I was worried it would
out-show the single quinta vintage, but that turned out not to be the
case. A memorable LBV, but no replacement for a vintage port.
Nonetheless I would be happy to keep this for another decade and it may
still improve a little with cellaring.

Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage 1996 (Single Quinta)
Deep, opaque and inky. Open nose of black fruits and violets. Firm but
fine tannic structure, still relatively youthful in character. Needs
time for the raw-ness of the tannins to smooth out. It felt like
infanticide enjoying this now. My impression was that it is only just
into its drinking window. This is relatively young still and will
develop for another 10 years and keep for more after this. Excellent
single quinta vintage port wine.

Weingut Tegernseerhof Tasting Notes

Weingut Tegernseerhof at Oxford University Wine Society
http://www.tegernseerhof.at/

It always seems to me that the wines of Austria are rather over-looked in the UK other than by those in-the-know. Some excellent wines are out there, with interesting styles and grapes, but you have to dig around to find them and they aren't always cheap. 

So it was with great interest that I joined this tasting hosted by Martin Mittelbach from the family behind Weingut Tegernseerhof in the Wachau, one of the key premium wine producing regions in Austria. 

This winery is completely new to me, but has vineyard holdings in some of the most renowned Wachau areas including Loibenberg, Steinertal and Kellerberg – mainly stoney terraced vineyards, although with some holdings on the flats by the Danube river. Currently run by the sixth-generation of the family, the emphasis is very much on quality wines and they produce approx 120-150,000 bottles/year.

The Wachau is a blend of the Pannonian and Atlantic climates. Stretching 20Km east to west there is a 1.5C average temperature difference across the region, with similar variation in humidity and rain. The majority of wines are of the 'Smaragd' category, the highest quality level from the ripest grapes. 

These wines are very well suited to Asian cusine; overall I was impressed by the quality of these white wines.

Their UK importer is www.stevensgarnier.co.uk/

Frauenweingarten Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2010
Medium-pale yellow. Open nose with classic soft pepper characteristics. Fresh spritzig palate. Quite full, mineralic and weighty on the palate. Short-medium finish. High acid. Classy stuff. 15-16/20. 

Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner 2007
Medium yellow. Started off quite sulphur-eggy, but this lifted. Vegetal character. Body weighty, high acid, real weight behind this. Persistent with good length. Pepper and some nutty character. Full bodied. Seemingly high alcohol, a little hot initially. Would suit Asian cuisine well. 16.5/20.

Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner 2009
Pale medium-yellow. More floral and pepper nose. Lemon grass. Lighter in character. Something slightly creamy about this, malolactic? Softer on the palate too, but still relatively full bodied. High acidity. Perceptible alcohol. Medium finish. Prefer this to the 2007.

Steinertal Riesling 2007
Medium-deep yellow. Very open nose – steely! Mineral, petrol notes, a little mature character. Power and weight with a medium finish. Akin to liquid stone! 13.3% alcohol, but that doesn't come across. Really excellent stuff. Easily has another 10-15 years of aging ahead of it. 17+/20.

Steinertal Riesling 2009
Pale yellow. Classic young Austrian Riesling nose – all blossom, white fruits, very open. Similar palate, very fragrant and youthful. Good acid. Lighter alcohol at 12.6%, and this is discenerable in the lighter body in this wine. Clearly has ageing potential of a decade in front of it but right now I prefer the 2007. 16/20.

Kellerberg Riesling 2007
Kellerberg is one of the most famous vineyards in Austria. Medium yellow. Slightly lighter nose than the Steinertal wines. Less weighty, perfumed and complex. Certainly softer, seems to offer up a bit less of everything to my palate. In all other aspects it is similar in character to the previous Rieslings – still an excellent wine, perhaps I had just expected more. 16/20.

Kellerberg Riesling 2009
Pale yellow. Huge blossom character. Good acidity and as you would expect less aged character than the previous wines. Very youthful, poised. 16/20.

Riesling Creation 2008

Mix of vineyards, hence a 'creation'. Some bought in grapes too. 14.8% alcohol (!) with 18g/l residual sugar. For me this wine is not at all balanced. Too much right now. What is it trying to be?! Too much in the glass. Apparently this has 20-30 years of life ahead of it, and from the monumental power that comes across from this right now I can believe that. It has some stuffing in it, but I cannot imagine how it will change and develop in that time. Something I would love to come back and taste in future to follow its progress as it develops in the bottle.

Domaine Charles (François et Fils), Nantoux, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

Domaine Charles (François et Fils)

Nantoux, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy

The family vineyards owned by the proprietors of our farmhouse accommodation, and a recommended Hautes-Côtes de Beaune producer in the wonderful Hubrecht Duijker wine guides of old. Nantoux is a classical, relatively untouched Burgundy village nestled in the high slopes above and west of Beaune. Maybe only a couple of kilometres into the side valleys, but a world apart from the touristy heart of Cote d’Or. Keenly priced and not well known wines here; very little English spoken! Grandfather beckoned us into a tiny, cool, dimly-lit stone vaulted cellar under the house for a tasting. Unlabelled half-bottles lined up in a seemingly disorganised fashion, the contents labelled in a code known only to them. A generous tasting was provided.

For those wanting to learn more about this famous winemaking region, I strongly recommend The Great Domaines of Burgundy by Remington Norman and Charles Taylor, or The Wines of Burgundy by Clive Coates.

Bourgogne Aligoté 2009

Pale colour, lightly aromatic, buttery and nutty. Very rounded on the palate with a decent freshness. Short finish. An above average Aligoté. Drink youngest available.

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc « Les Vignes de Déffend » 2009

Very open nose, classic buttery Burgundy. Generous wine, soft and rounded. Surprisingly hot. Light and amply suited to an aperitif or light dishes. Really very attractive and approachable. Drink within 1 to 2 years. Very good, particularly when you consider this is only €7.50 per bottle. Excellent value!

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2008

Pale red. Soft, open nose of light red fruits, not overwhelming. A juicy and rather straightforward wine, enjoyed cool. Light tannins. Lunchtime stuff. Drink within 2 years. Good, and particularly good value too at €8.40 per bottle.

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge « La Combotte » 2007

Still a pale red, but immediately more complex and developed on the nose. Earthy pinot noir style. Light tannins, but certainly more weight to this. Can’t imagine it will improve with further keeping. Good, and particularly good value too at €8.40 per bottle.

Pommard 2008

Sadly open too long in the bottle to accurately taste, but this is markedly darker in colour and comes across as a tannic four-square wine in keeping with the appellation.

Volnay 1er Cru “Les Fremiets” 2009

Typically pale red colour belies some serious concentration here. Big, open, pinot perfume rises up out of the glass. In contrast there is a surprisingly tannic and fierce palate with some serious structure behind this. Very interesting. Clearly very young, I think this has the right ingredients to go the distance here and make a great wine in 10 years time. It reflects the good vintage that it hails from. Very good, and relatively good value for what it is at €19.00 per bottle

Vendanges d’Automme Moelleux

Definitely not within any Bourgogne appellation rules! Late harvest style dessert wine. Chardonnay grape. Bottle had been open a while and perhaps not showing at its best. Nose rather closed. Palate medium sweet with rather low acidity. Enjoyable but relatively straightforward. Guessing 50-60ish g/L residual sugar? Moelleux style to be enjoyed as an aperitif or with a starter like the local foie gras. Not for keeping.

Le Montrachet tasting, Puligny-Montrachet 2011

A quick dip into the tasting bar again on the long journey home...

Domaine Alain Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Pucelles” 2009

Medium yellow, lighter than the Meursault. Long legs within the glass. Moderately open on the nose, subtle white summer flowers and white fruits. The palate is layered, with white fruits (peach and pear) dominating a very full and concentrated wine. Feels a little hot in the mouth initially. Huge amount of body to this, very nicely balanced fruit and acidity. Underneath this there is a level of minerality that gives this wine poise and power. Remarkably good length. This is a fine wine. Undoubtedly has aging potential but equally enjoyable now. 17/20.

Château de Meursault Premier Cru 2008

Deep yellow. Nose of creamy French-oak vanilla. Lighter, more fruit orientated palate than the Puligny-Montrachet. More elegant in style and softer. Touch lower acidity, although still a little hot. Ripe and well rounded. White fruit characters also predominate. Less powerful finish. How will this develop with age? 16/20.

Grand Cru: Terroir

Oxford University Wine Society

A fine tasting to finish what has undoubtedly been the most successful year for the Society in recent academic years. A fitting finale for out-going President Alex Linsley, and a wonderful evening of contrasting wines the likes of which are not tasted often!

Champagne Salon 1997

The prestige wine of Delamotte, and the stuff of legend for many Champagne lovers. Only made in the best vintages, in lesser years the wine is sold as the standard house Champagne. Medium yellow. Nose a little closed, perhaps slightly too cold initially. Leesy, faintly cheesy, but lifts quickly. Very fine mouse. Lemon and lime. Really full bodied on the palate, almost tannic. Very brut and brutish! Intense style of wine, perhaps not to my personal style. Rich++. Long and persistent finish. Bollinger more than Taittinger in style, but all the more remarkable for being Cote de Blanc. 17/20. Approx retail £195.

Domaine Leflaive – Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatières”, Premier Cru 1997

Medium yellow. Very pronounced, open nose which is showing the aged complexity of white Burgundy. Very classic. Light citrus and perhaps a little touch of honey or honeysuckle set against a dominant aged vinous nuttiness. Becoming waxy as it warms and opens up. Full and powerful palate. Good acidity and balance. Mineralic core to this. Dry finish. Great structure. Lots of extract. Could keep, but probably wouldn’t improve and drinking at peak now I would think. In comparison to the Lafon that followed, I thought this showed a little old and tiring, but the majority of tasters disagreed with that assessment and preferred this Leflaive. 17/20. Approx retail £120.

Domaine Comtes des Lafon – Mersault “Clos de la Barre” 2004

Medium yellow. Open nose – magnificently poised and focussed. Incredible concentrated structure on the palate. Mineralic touched with lemon grass. Far more concentrated than the Leflaive to my palate. Layered, multi-faceted complexity with fresh, high acidity. Magnificent wine and so young. This has a great future ahead of it. Monolithic. 18/20. Approx retail £120.

Domaine Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 1996

Deep in colour for a Pinot Noir, darker than the 2004 Engel! Very open nose – seriously meaty and savoury. Dry and dusty. Not at all classic Burgundy, not entirely sure it ever was to have lost it. Tastes as if its drying out to me with a dry-tea character and lacking in fruit. I tried a glass from a second bottle for comparison. If I was being kind then this had fractionally more fruit, but overall just as flat and atypical for both fine Burgundy and fine Pinot wherever it hails from. Poor given the approximate retail price of £100.

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1997

Paler – not as pale as the Engel, but paler than the Grivot. Very open and high in perfumed volatility. Classic. Savoury and mature. Lovely acidity keeps the palate very young and fresh, lively and together. The still firm but fine tannins lend this decent structure. This has that ethereal great Burgundy trick of being both light and yet powerful at the same time. A fist in a velvet glove. Long finsh. Really lovely. 17+/20. Approx retail £140.

Domaine René Engel, Grand-Echezeaux Grand Cru 2004

Typically light pinot colour. Classic nose, very open. Complex character. Strawberry, savoury and meaty. Multifaceted and intense. Good levels of tannin balance out body and nose.I would have thought for a Grand Cru wine this would have been older given the lightness of the colour. Very enjoyable but a touch lighter all round in comparison to the Rousseau. 16.5/20. Approx retail £145.

Mascarello Guiseppe e Figlio, Barolo Monprivato 1996

Rim turning brick red. High volatile notes on nose, rather tar like, but not really that open. Monumental tannin levels! Gum-ripping stuff, with immense structure and depth of fruit underlying this. Deep, dark wine, although conversely good acidity levels keep it surprisingly lifted on the palate (although not that surprising – just classic great Barolo!). Drinking this after the wines that have preceded it is perhaps doing this an injustice. I suspect with suitable food to accompany it, it would come across rather different, but to me right now it is something of an impenetrable, dense mass. This probably needed at least another decade before opening and will no doubt go the distance and continue to improve for another 15-20 years. It will be a great, memorable, majestic wine then, but for now I just can’t get that in context so I’m not going to give it a score. Approx retail price £90.

Château de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1995

Decanted. Showing some age with a brick red – orangy rim developing. Very open, but after the onslaught of the Barolo it takes some time to adjust. Perfumed, light and appealing – perhaps that would only be ever written tasting this after the Barolo, but this is not the typical Brett-dominated, horse manure style that one typically associates with Beaucastel. Still classic mature wine for this style. Showing very well. Approx retail price £65.

Equipo Navasos Sherry

The following two sherries were fascinating but difficult to put in context so I have refrained from scoring them. They are clearly very fresh, in terms of both the individual wines and also the general style they are trying to achieve. More wine-like and less the oxidated-aged-character of old. Personally, I prefer the classic style. Maybe that’s just what I’m used to. However, I will say that a day or so later I thought of them and something clicked in my brain such that the penetrating flavour was right there in my mouth again. These had etched themselves onto my memory quite vividly. In all my years of tasting I can only recall that ever having happening with one of two wines before!

Equipo Navasos 22. La Bota Manzanilla “Navazos”

Essentially a fino wine from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, hence “Manzanilla”. Deep medium yellow. Very open nose. Manzanilla but with something else too. Hot and almond. Hugely complex. Remarkably high and pronounced esther/aldehyde content. Really, really fresh with much more youthful fruit character than typical. This is a super-charged Manzanilla the likes of which I have not tasted before. Approx retail price £25.

Equipo Navasos 24. La Bota Fino Amontillado “Montilla”

Not tasted a “fino amontillado” before – it is an old style of wine that has only partially completed the transformation from fino to amontillado. More unusual style of fino really. Light in character, flor-dominated, very aldehyde character. Complex, youthful. Overall feels a little odd and overdone to me. Certainly very concentrated. Approx retail price £38.

Joh. Jos. Prüm, Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2000

Gold. Open. Distinctly Riesling – has the light kerosene character. Toffee and marmalade. Great balance, not gloopy, but concentrated sweetness and core of syrup. Light palate with high acidity. Not as concentrated as I might have imagined, although I’m conscious that it may be little unfair tasting this following the sherries. Nonetheless the finish is surprisingly short. Great but not as outstanding as I would have imagined for this wine and producer, although granted not such a great vintage. 16.5+/20. Approx retail price £100.

Grahams Port 1977

Decanted. However I noted very fine sediment through my glass, which I fear detracted from my glass with an overly bitter, tannic emphasis. I cannot stress enough the importance of letting old great port like this stand for 48 hours before careful decanting. Nonetheless, classic, rich and a touch hot. Still quite fresh. Long finish. I’ve had other glasses of 1this 1977 that have tasted better. Will keep a decade or more yet. 16-17/20.

Followed later after the tasting by…

Château La Nerthe Blanc, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

White Chateauneuf-du-Pape can be very variable in style. This was lovely. Rich and concentrated, with good balance and a nice lift from the acidity. White fruit dominated on the plate. Really very good. 16.5+/20.

Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel 2000

Certainly better than the Joh. Jos. Prüm, Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel tasted earlier. Tighter, more focussed, higher acidity. Lusciously sweet but balanced by the acidity. This is clearly the better wine of the two. This has a very long, long life ahead of it. 17/20.

The tasting finished with a show of hands for the favourite wine of the evening. In descending rank order, people’s favourite wines of the evening were:

1. Joh. Jos. Prüm, Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2000

2. Domaine Armand Rousseau, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1997

3. Mascarello Guiseppe e Figlio, Barolo Monprivato 1996

4. Equipo Navasos 24. La Bota Fino Amontillado “Montilla”

5. Château de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1995

Madeira wine tasting

D'Oliveiras Madeira Wine Tasting
Oxford University Wine Society

Madeira is a classic fortified wine hailing from the island of the same
name. The history of Madeira is the stuff of legend. The classic style
of high-acidity, high-volatility wines originating from their prolonged
storage in ship holds, when ship used Madeira as a staging post on the
travels around the world. It is said that merchants realised that casks
kept for extended periods in the hot ship holds developed a better
taste, and century old lists from traditional English wine merchants
show a premium was paid for such wines.

D'Oliveiras didn't export until the 1980's. They hold the largest share
of old Madeira on the island due to amalgamating stocks with other
producers and exporters. Many of the traditional Madeira wine house no
longer exist. From over 100 a couple of centuries ago this has dwindled
to only 6 wine producers on the island! Due to combined problems with
phyloxera, odium and numerous other troubles that befell producers.

Madeira = Spanish for tress. Refers to the forested island claimed by
Columbus in 1419. It is said that the clearing of many forested areas
helped create the particularly fertile soil on top of the distinctive
volcanic rock.

In contrast to other fortified wines, the selection of traditional grape
variety helps determine the character of the resulting wine. The 'noble'
varieties used are:

• Sercial
• Verdelho
• Malvasia
• Tinta Negra

Other rare grapes include Terrantez (of which D'Oliveiras own two
vineyards; not grown much as low yielding, hence they often don't grow
sufficient to bottle) and Bastardo.

Noble grapes account for approximately only 9% of vineyard varieties.
The general rule is that "the higher, the drier", in that grapes grown
in higher vineyard areas are used to produce drier styles of wine.
Southern, lower vineyards are warmer closer to sea level and used for
producing sweeter Madeira wines.

The initial steps in the wine making process for Madeira and similar to
those of other European fortified wines, in that the must resulting from
pressing the grapes is allowed to undergo either a complete or partial
fermentation before oxidation (where as port is partially fermented and
sherry is fully fermented). Fortification occurs with the addition of
grape spirit, which arrests further fermentation where this has only
been partially completed.

There is a not inconsiderable amount of controversy relating to the use
of grape spirit for fortification. Traditionally sugar cane spirit was
used on the island until EU legislation forced the use of grape spirit
instead. This is said to led to Madeira losing some of its character in
recent years, and the blame is laid on the EU using this ruling as an
excuse to try and clear the 'wine lakes'.

Madeira extracts some of its deep characteristic colour from the wood it
is aged in, and sweeter wines extract more colour. Old American oak vats
are used, and if purchased new they are frequently given to table wine
makers for the first 3-years of their life to ensure the stronger
oak-character is extracted before they are used to store Madeira wine.

There are two different aging methods used:
Estufagem = wine that is warmed to achieve the classic Madeira character.
Canteiro = wine that is stored in the warm lofts to attain the Madeira
character.

To serve – the advice was don't generally chill, as it hides the
powerful aromatics that the wines have to offer. Due to the oxidised
style, the wines don't significantly deteriorate in decanter or bottle
after opening. They have been described as immortal and indestructible!
Keep Madeira wines upright – they don't need to be on their side. Look
for the year older wines were bottled – they may develop a little bottle
age as in addition to the long traditional wood-ageing that they usually
see.

D'Oliveiras 5-year old dry
Pale yellow-copper. Very light. Magnificant open nose. Burnt caramel,
very classic and volatile. Arresting palate (in a good way!) High in
acidity of course, and tastes as it smells. Very dry. Good finish. 19%
alc. 16/20. Approx retail price £17.50.

D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium dry
Darker copper/rust. Nose a little richer. Medium-dry palate. Caramel,
burnt toffee, nutty. High acid. Fuller palate. More complex. Longer
finish. Recommended with consumé and cheese such as Shopshire Blue! 19%
alc. 16.5/20. Approx retail price £17.50.

D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium sweet
Darker copper – heading towards light brown. Slightly finer, fruiter
nose but still with the classic high volatiles. Sweeter but seemingly
less body with it. The residual sugar levels are in fact very high,
81-95 g/L, but the piercing acidity seen in Madeira ensures that this
really doesn't taste that high! 19% alc. 16/20. Approx retail price £17.50.

D'Oliveiras 5-year old sweet
Copper-brown. Volatile but smoother nose, softer, more fruit coming
through. Almost tropical in character. Very sweet despite similar levels
of acidity. Heading toards syrupy. Orange peel character. Probably the
most full bodied of all. 19% alc. 16.5/20. Approx retail price £17.50.

D'Oliveiras Reserva Terrantez 1977
Rare wine from the Terrantez grape. Remained in cask until bottling in
2009, some 32-years in oak cask! Huge, long tears in the glass. Volatile
nose as previous, but a marked step-change in character. Much more
marmalade and orange peel. Reminiscent of Countreau liquer! Full palate,
classic high acidity. Rounded mouthfeel. Medium sweet. Long, long
finish. Made with barley sugar cane spirit to arrest the fermentation –
it is said this in part is responsible for the more distinctive
character. Magnificent wine. Excellent aperitif. Clear 17+/20. Approx
retail price £78.

D'Oliveiras Reserva Boal 1978
Gold Medal winner from IWC. Dark brown. Very hot palate – too hot? Very
rounded, rich, full and weighty. Oily and luscious. Less marmalade, more
citrus in style. Incredibly powerful palate. Great structure and length.
Noticeably lower acidity than the other wines tasted. Doesn't marry
together as well as the '77 Terrantez, but still an immense wine. 20%
alc. 17/20. Approx retail price £78.

D'Oliveiras Reserva Boal 1968
The 1968 is a famous vintage of Boal Madeira. Bottled in 2010. Medium
brown colour. Nose – noticeably more restrained and refined. Lighter
volatility, lighter as a whole but no lesser wine for it. Finer and more
elegant. Married together beautifully. Long and balanced. My favourite.
20% alc. 17-18/20. Approx retail £91.

My order of preference for the basic styles, with favourite first:
1. D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium dry
2. D'Oliveiras 5-year old dry
3. D'Oliveiras 5-year old sweet
4. D'Oliveiras 5-year old medium sweet

The vintage wines were uniformly outstanding, although the D'Oliveiras
Reserva Boal 1968 was a step up into a different league.

Pereira D'Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. Rua dos Ferreiros, Funchal, Madeira

Super Zin

Turley Old Vine Zinfandel 2008 (Napa, USA)

With a fine dinner at the excellent Old Bell Inn, Hurley. Heavy, styled bottle. Dark but not impenetrable ruby. Open nose of black fruit and touch of kirsch. Palate is big and bold, lots of primary fruit but not confected. Weighty glycerin and hot, but not as hot as one might expect for 15.5% alc. Structured, but light on acidity. Needed a fine medium rare rump steak to do it justice. This is a serious Zin, reminds me of lighter vintages of Ridge but a little more turbocharged. I'd be fascinated to see what this tasted like in another few years, can't quite work out which way this will go. I could almost forgive the 125% restaurant mark up. 16.5+/20.

Chateau Musar Tasting

Chateau Musar Tutored Wine Tasting

Oxford University Wine Society

For those interested in these fascinating wines, I strongly recommend the Wines of the Lebanon by Michael Karam. Informative and beautifully illustrated, this won the Gourmand Award for the Best New World Wine Book and is pretty much the definitive guide to this area.

Ten-years on from our last tasting with Chateau Musar, it was a pleasure to return to Trinity College for this excellent evening, which included some of the wines featured last time. It my opinion, it was a better tasting, with the wines showing very well, although maybe that is as much down to my palate becoming accustomed to (indeed, actively seeking out!) these famous wines. I must try and find my old notes to type up and compare. From what we tasted this evening, my overall impression is that the style has modernised just a touch. Such monumental vintages such as the 2003 to my mind are more polished than the wines of old, but still equally weighty, age worthy and still showing that classic Musar volatile tang that you either love or hate. This is probably simply down to better viticulture and vinification than any active change in style. Overall I was impressed with the uniformly high quality of these wines. Although the style may not be to everyone’s tastes, I would encourage everyone to sample these wines at some stage as they are really quite unique.

From the tasting notes: Chateau Musar is on the Mediterranean cost just to the north of Beirut. The Bekka Valley vineyards, at around 1Km above sea level, are cradled between mountain ranges parallel to the Syrian border. Grapes have been cultivated for over 6,000 years in the high-altitude idyll, blessed with a mild climate and 300 days of sunshine a year. Youthful entrepreneur Gaston Hochar, who founded Musar in 1930, handed over the reins to Bordeaux-trained son Serge in 1959. Over 50 years, Serge has trialled each vineyard and winemaking aspect, remaining true to a natural philosophy: ‘organic’ before the term was coined.

Having a vineyard in a civil war zone is quite unique, but only two vintages have been lost to conflict: 1976 and 1984.

All wines were double decanted at noon for an evening tasting.

Chateau Musar white 2003

Seven years in the making, made from indigenous Lebanese varieties Obaideh and Merwah (related to Chardonnay and Semillon) from ungrafted vines around 1,300m above sea level and fermented and matured in French oak (Nevers) barrels for 9 months. Much fresher and considerably less oxidised than older vintages I have tasted (albeit not tasted for at least 10 years!) Of all the wines, this has changed the most in style. It is none the worse for it. This was double decanted at noon for an evening tasting, and served only a touch cool at approx 15C. It has sufficient structure that any cooler would clearly hide much of what it has to offer. Open and intense, with a touch of Semillon character to it. Complex, nutty, full and long with a touch of chemical character to it. Quite remarkable and individual . This is a wine lovers wine; the strength of unique character will not be to everyone’s tastes. I would imagine this has decades of life ahead of it and it would be fascinating to follow its evolution. Unfined and unfiltered. Yields were reduced in 2003 due to a cold snap during flowering. I have no idea what food you could partner with this – it is quite capable of standing along by itself as something to chew on! Only 12% alcohol. 17/20.

Chateau Musar Rose 2006

Mainly local grapes with approx 70% Obaideh, 5% Cinsaut for colour and the remainder Merwah. Nine months in oak. Decanting recommended. Serve lightly cool at 15C. Lightest of light salmon pink in colour. Delicate floral rose nose. Weighty, full palate. Full and round with almost a hint of pepper on a long finish. Warm. This is a very serious high quality rose wine, perhaps the best rose I’ve tasted in a long time. 12% alcohol. 16/20.

Chateau Musar Jeune Red 2009

A new wine since I last tasted the range. Interestingly this now occupies the price point that Hochar Père et Fils once did, and seem similar if more modern and fruity in character. In turn, Hochar Père et Fils now occupies the price point that the Chateau wine sold for 10-years ago, but is a better wine than I remember. The Musar Jeune is an un-oaked Cinsault-Syrah-Cab blend from a single village in the Bekka Valley. Raised in oak for nine months, with two years ageing in bottle prior to release. Deep, dark red in colour, it really lacks the volatility typically associated with Musar. It is a very good quality wine for the price point. Dominated by spicy black fruits, this is a medium bodied wine begging to accompany a steak on the BBQ! 13.5% alcohol. For keeping in the medium term, as it does have considerable structure, but I suspect it won’t improve with maturation and is best appreciated as-is. 15.5+/20.

Chateau Musar Hochar Père et Fils red 2004

Single vineyard wine from vines over 50-years old near Aana. Deep soils over limestone. Nine months in oak with extended bottle ageing prior to release. Pale red, aged rim, notable large slow tears running down glass.. Striking volatile nose, classic Musar in style. Fine tannins on the palate, but a slightly thin middle, lacking in fruit. While this is considerably better than previous Hochar Pere et Fils wines I have tasted, I think this is ready for drinking right now and won’t improve with keeping. 14% alcohol. 16+/20.

Chateau Musar red 2003

The ‘Grand Vin’ of the estate. Seven years from harvest to release. Cab Sav-Cinsault-Carignan fermented in cement lined vats. Two-four weeks maceration and matured 12-15 months in Nevers French oak barrels. Four years bottle ageing prior to release. Considerably more colour than the Hochar Père et Fils tasted prior to this, which is in fact one year younger. Nose quite reticent and closed, not overtly volatile. Lots of meat to the palate, full bodied and tannic, but married together well. Elegant controlled power! The palate shows more volatility, but more red fruits and relatively primary at this stage in its development (for a 7-year old wine!). 14% alcohol. Right now I would give this 16/20, but in a decades time this will be getting into its stride and no doubt be a considerably better wine scoring higher. This will come together to make a great wine that will go the distance over the coming decades.

Chateau Musar red 1999

Described as a ‘textbook’ Musar vintage. Widely praised by critics, and I have to agree. Pale rim, medium density core. Gives the impression that this is just starting to open up. Measured volatility on the nose, not overwhelming or dominant. Spicy red fruits, but showing some maturity. Powerful, full bodied palate. Firm tannins, but very in keeping with the wine, not at all angular. Elegant and structured. To my mind showing the best this evening, although others preferred some of the older wines. I think this is drinking magnificently now; clearly it will mature and develop further over the coming two decades. In this time I would imagine the red fruits to fade and the volatility to come to the fore. I like it now. 14% alcohol. At least 17+/20.

Chateau Musar red 1998

From a cooler year. Cinsault-dominated vintage. Interesting tasting this side-by-side with the 1999. They are clearly related, but really very different. Paler, open nose but rather gamey and green. Something a little medicinal about it. Burnt rubber. Tea-like and a little thin on the palate. So much more mature than the 1999 despite being just one year older. Drink now. 15.5/20.

Chateau Musar red 1993

Showing age with an orange rim. Fully mature nose, volatile and burnt. Very tertiary and roasted. Palate is round, smooth and integrated. Fine, mild tannins. Soft, cedar and long. Chocolate and dark spice. Long. I note this now retails for about seven-times the price I originally bought a bottle for 10-years ago (approx £70/bottle)! Drinking now, will no doubt keep but I can’t imagine it will improve further. 14% alcohol. 17/20.

Chateau Musar red 1991

Staggering wine at 20-years old! Now light orange in colour on the rim and browning core. Seems to be lighter on the nose than the 1993, as if its fading a little. Still strikingly volatile. Thinning out on the palate, but has a spicy after taste very reminiscent of a Bloody Mary! Hot and a little bit empty on the finish. Drying out. I’m aware this tasting note sells this wine a little short, and I should emphasise what an enjoyable and fascinating wine this was to taste. Drink soon, won’t improve any further with keeping. 14% alcohol. 16(+)/20.

Recent Wines

Markgraf von Baden - Grauburgunder Spatlese trocken 2003 (Durbach, Germany)

One of my greatest pleasures in wine tasting is finding the un-sung hero, the little wine that is trying to (or being) great without the recognition it deserves. This is certainly one of them, and I note my original tasting note at the winery when I bought it predicted such. Rediscovering it I thought it would certainly be past it. How wrong, this is only just getting into its stride – and sadly my last bottle! Perhaps the vintage has a lot to answer for, as this producer is generally not rated as one of the best in the picturesque little Baden village of Durbach. Nonetheless, this was a wine to remember at a steal of a price. Medium yellow and bright in colour, classic great open nose of almonds and a hint of exotic spice. Plate full and round, low acidity but none the worse for that. Oily and weighty, hides the high alcohol very well, with a medium length finish giving just a hint of bitterness at the end. Drink now, unlikely to improve further, but probably has the stuffing to keep another couple of years. Would have passed for a weight Grand Cru Pinot Gris from the other side of the Rhine valley (Alsace) or maybe Kaisersthul in a blind tasting. 16.5/20.

Männle - Durbacher Kochberg Weissburgunder Spatlese trocken 2004 (Durbach, Germany)

As with the Markgraf von Baden, this was another happy surprise from the cellar. We have bought from the welcoming Männle family over many years of visiting Durbach. They have always offered sound quality at very fair prices (apart from their reds!) Again, I imaged this would have seen better days but it turned out to be an excellent enjoyable wine. Medium-deep yellow, with an open nose that was strikingly creamy in nature. Ample, full-bodied palate – a very weighty example. Again, I would have placed this as being very high quality Pinot Blanc from Alsace or the Kaisersthul if I had of tasted blind. 16.5/20.

Domaine Colombier - Crozes Hermitage 'Cuvee Gaby' 2005 (Northern Rhône, France)

The first of an en primeur case, this was simply infanticide opening it this young. Deep black, with thick tears in the glass. Closed nose, just some subdued black spice. Palate full bodied and raw, with firm tannins not yet integrated and primary black fruits abound. Behind this a sort of leathery hint of classic, bold syrah. This will be a great wine from a great vintage when it knits together, but I’ll certainly be leaving it at least another 5 years before tasting again. Unfair to score now.

Domaine St. Andrieu - L'Yeuse Noire 1997 (Monpeyroux, Languedoc, France)

How I fell in love with this village, this wine and the wine makers. I remember well knocking on their house door in the heat of the afternoon Mediterranean sun without an appointment and with little French still conveying sufficient enthusiasm to be invited into the cellar of their family house for a wine tasting. Magical stuff. I forget the name of the little independent wine merchant that tipped me off regarding the family. Now they are a well recognised producer in Montpeyroux. In its youth I remember it was closed and tannic – “not to be touched for 10 years”. It was a pleasure to taste this and remember those memories. Deep in colour, not showing much age. Open, full bodied and warm, with black fruits and a hint of the Mediterranean herbs in the vineyards. Lovely stuff. Fully mature now, perhaps will keep a little longer. 16.5/20.

Chateau Peyrassol 2004 (Provence, France)

A speculative purchase last year from the excellent regional Maison du Vin in Provence. Syrah (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (50%). Showing a little age on the rim. Very Provencal in style. Open nose, really soft, attractive, mature cab sav character but not at all Bordeaux – clearly from a warmer climate and covered in dark spices from the syrah. Palate very expansive and mouth-filling, although not all that full-bodies or long. Acidity on the low side. The wine really tastes of the baked Mediterranean. Fully mature and unlikely to improve further with keeping. Website suggests 8-10 yrs cellaring max. 16/20. I would be interested to visit their winery (looks very attractive: http://www.peyrassol.com/) and taste their other wines.

Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2005 (Languedoc, France)

Daumas Gassac and I go back a long way, thanks to Samuel Guibert, although this is the first bottle opened from our 2005’s. Quite light in colour. Day 1: not decanted. Closed nose, rather closed palate. Medium body, fine tannins, fresh acidity and acohol well balanced. But overall angular and not giving anything out at all. Odd. Day 2: Open 24 hours in the bottle. A little more open, fine claret-like nose but a little more rustic. Palate showing more depth to it. Day 3: Open 48 hours in bottle. Hitting its stride. Now considerably more open. Primary light red cherry fruits predominant (unmistakably reminiscent of the original en primeur) with a touch of vanilla behind this. Palate much more broad and elegant. What an interesting tasting. The family do recommend decanting in the morning ready for dinner in the evening, but this is more likely going through an awkward adolescent stage in its development. Going by the old rule based on the number of days a wine opens up/keeps in the bottle after being opened as being a measure of potential life ahead, I think this will emerge from its chrysalis as a beautiful wine in another 5 years+ with many years of life ahead of that. Fascinating stuff.

Les Sang des Calloux - Cuvee de Lopy 2000 (Vacqueyras, Southern Rhône, France)

Bought from the winery, this has matured into something quite remarkable. I do remember visiting though, and the winemaker was decidedly unwelcoming and resolutely non-English speaking. My pigeon-French smattering of wine related conversation just about got us through – until at the last minute the price of the wines was suddenly increased from that advertised on the board in front of us! At the time I vividly remember his two wines standing apart from anything else I had tasted during that visit to Vacqueyras, and we had tasted a lot. These were clearly something special (and even before the rise, the prices charged in comparison to other village wines reflected this). Far more depth and concentration. Afterwards I remember talking to the local workers at the co-operative in Vacqueyras, where one of the head-honchos told us she had purchased several cases for cellaring. My impressions were validated, and over the years since then Les Sang des Calloux has received much acclaim and Parker points. The price has nearly doubled from what I originally paid! So it was with disappointment that some bottles opened over the years have not lived up to expectations. This did, and how. Accompanying a BBQ rump and sirloin steak, this wine would have outshone many Chateauneuf-du-Papes. Wonderful stuff. Completely opaque in colour, with only a hint of age on the rim. Wonderful rich, open nose. Ripe, almost Christmas Pudding. Deep and concentrated, with black fruit, range of complex black spices and even some coffee and nutmeg. Palate similarly rich and full bodied, very broad and full. Low acidity. By the next day it had lost much of what it had to offer. Drink now and enjoy. 17/20.

Round-up

Cantina Bolzano - St Magdalener Classico "Huck am Bach" 2006 (Alto Adige, South Tyrol, Italy)

From a fantastic Alto Adige tasting in Oxford, this was a Gamberro Rossa best value wine winner. Quite light red in colour, with an aromatic nose that was open, fine, not a million miles away from baby Nebbiolo with a delicate nose of red fruits and violets. Palate similar: delicate and light, fresh acidity, medium bodied and well structured. Perfect served cool with Italian charcuterie on a summers evening. Enjoy now, not for keeping. The wine takes its name from the winegrowing village of St. Magdalena, which achieved DOC status in 1971. The blend is approx 90% Schiava (Trollinger ) and10% Lagrein. Huck am Bach is the south facing vineyard slope where the grapes are grown above Bolzano (Cantina Bolzano). I would be interested to explore this relatively neglected area and taste more! 16+/20.

Wynns - Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2005 (Coonawarra, South Australia)

A South Australian classic that ticks all the boxes for this great style of wine, but also has a bit of age (5 years) from a good vintage. Near-opaque black colour, open nose of big black fruits and quite heady, although it has lost the brashness of youth and is integrating. Leathery blackberries. Full-bodied palate, maybe a little thin in the middle? Carries the alcohol well (14%), very rich indeed. Just a little short on the finish, but lovely and will keep. Needs hearty steak! 16/20.

Weingut Bründlmayer Chardonnay 2001 (Austria)

Hints of a good wine, but sadly this one had just been kept in the cellar too long. Dried out and a little oxidised. To be quite fair, it was never sold as a wine for cellaring either.

Côte d'Olt Co-op - Paradis 2000 (Cahors, France)

This was a treat. Originally tasted and bought direct from the winery, this particular was a lonely left-over spotted on the bottom shelf of a rural French supermarket being sold off at a silly price (~£8). The top wine from the co-op producer in a very good year for Cahors. Opening it at 10-years old was probably not doing it justice - it could have kept another 10! Deep in inky colour, the subtle nose opened out in aromas of cedar and black fruits. The palate was still quite unctuous and full, with weighty tannins and structure. Black fruit still present in abundance. If tasting blind I might have said this was a 5-year old solid claret from a good vintage, not a 10-year old Cahors! Wish I had another bottle to come back to in another decade. 16+/20.

La Garrigue - Vacqueyras "Traditionnelle" 2006 (Southern Rhone, France)

Bought from the winery, this is a lovely Southern Rhone wine. Straightforward and direct in style. Robust tannins, nicely balanced by weight black fruits inkeeping with the vintage. Just goes to show what great wines are coming from this area at really sensible prices. Drink now. There is something nicely rustic about this, and I don't mean that in a bad way, but I like the fact it lacks the polish of so many new world equivalents. It does taste like its come out of a traditional family winery, with all the rough edges that brings! Perfect for a meaty BBQ or winter roast. 15.5/20.

Ernest Hill - Chambourcin 2007 (Hunter Valley, Australia)

Bought from the winery in the Hunter on my last trip there. Intended as a random blind tasting with friends, it certainly worked and confused them all. Not really like much I've tasted before - perhaps something a little in common with the St Magdalener Classico in that it was herbaceous, light, juicy and aromatic, but this was a touch simple and short in length by comparison. A nice lunchtime quaffer, pleasant, not too heavy, but nothing more. Chambourcin is a hybrid variety although I can't seem to find the parentage. Not for keeping. 14/20.

Top Côtes du Rhône Village

Domaine Brusset "Chabriles" 2006 (Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Village, France)

Bought from the Domaine's shop in Gigondas, this is a fine example of why Cairanne should have its own Appellation d'origine Contrôlée. Brusset is a highly regarded producer with vineyards in most of the prime CdR Village in this area, in addition to Gigondas itself. This is 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah made from 80-year old vines. Opaque in colour and heavy sediment in the bottle, this was decanted prior to serving. Rich nose of mild pepper and hints of black fruits. Palate dominated by dusty tannins but with a big seam of dark fruits behind this, really redolent of black cherry and violets with a touch of vanilla. Very robust and structured. A little warm on the palate with alcohol. Côtes du Rhône Village doesn't come much better than this. Probably drunk a little earlier than I should; doubtless this had another 5+ years in it. This needs some sturdy food to accompany it - we chose the aged steak for two at the excellent Hart's Restaurant in Nottingham (we paid corkage for bringing our own wine). I do wonder whether the fruit might have been more to the fore with decanting further in advance. 16(+)/20.

Winter Port Wine Recommendation

Graham's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003 (Portugal)
I've written about this before; nice to taste again a couple of years later. What a great port this is, certainly the best LBV I can recall. Tasted blind I'm sure many would mistake this for a medium vintage port, although granted 2003 was an excellent declared vintage. A worthy winner of the IWC Gold Medal a few years back. Opaque colour, open nose of black fruits and violets that hints of hidden depth still to come. Rich, dusty yet opulent palate with tremendous power and grip yet entirely balanced. Not a million miles away from the sort of super-charged porty wines one comes across from the Pacific Coast or regions of Australia. This is a class act, and although bottled ready to drink it should keep (hold perhaps - may not actually improve) for a decade I would think. Also great value for the quality. 16.5-17/20.

Classic Claret

Chateau Lynch-Moussas 1996

(Grand Cru Classe - Pauillac, Bordeaux, France)

Won at a Wellesley family wine tasting many years ago (?2001), this had been tucked away for 10 years to reach maturity. In that time not only had the wine mellowed but the demand for top Bordeaux has seen the price of Lynch-Moussas double! Saved for a suitably great catch-up dinner at the Oxford & Cambridge club, and decanted in advance for us. Quite wonderful stuff. Still deep medium core of colour, and an opulent open nose of cedar and tobacco. Incredibly smooth tannins and balanced, still fresh-and-fruit rather than old and thinning. A very fine classic, and a pleasure to drink. I find it can be so hit-and-miss choosing the right moment to open, but definitely got this at just the right point before it started the downhill slide. 16.5/20 (and that's from someone who generally isn't a huge fan of claret!)

Drink up, this is surely at its best right now.

Of note: Parker 86 pts, 2004-2012.

Could be better...

The Wine Society's Exhibition Morgan 2005 (Cru Beaujolais, France)

Of the ten Beujolais Cru, Morgan is fast staking out a reputation as a leader with full and structured wines more reminiscent of Burgundy than the usual Gamay-Beaujolias light-and-fruity style. Sadly this wine didn't really live up to that, which is a shame given the outstanding vintage it hails from (perhaps the best Beaujolais vintage in a generation). It was just rather aged and flat. Light medium red, nose rather closed but leaning towards earthy and raspy. Palate a little lean with soft tannin and a hint of dark fruit hiding at the back. Reasonable acidity. It was given a good chance - first served on the cool side, then warmed up and decanted. Tasted again the next day as well. I was keen for it to show something after I'd had so many great Morgan recently. It just wasn't to be so with this wine. Perhaps it should have been consumed a year or two ago? 13% alc. 14.5/20.

Domaine de La Rectorie "Le Séris" 2004 (Collioure, France)

From the well regarded Parcé Freres. Ripe harvested grenache and carignan. Aged rim and medium-light red core. Nose never opened up despite decanting. It never managed anything more than the sort of occasional Southern Rhone baked, oxidised grenache nose you sometimes come across. Palate was pretty much the same. Hot and flat. I looked hard for cork taint in this wine in the hope there was something more, but to be honest I think this is just as good as it gets. Very disappointing for a wine and producer that is generally well spoken of amongst those familiar with the lesser-known wines of Collioure. I can imagine it might have been better 3 or 4 years ago, although I note the original en primeur tasting notes from the Wine Society give a drinking window 2007-2014. 13% alc. Use for cooking. 13.5/20. (There are several left in the cellar - I hope one or two will show better!)